THE 


IMPROVED     SYSTEM 

OF 

(Muothig  the  jfowc* 

BY 

ROCKWELL   &   HURLBURT, 

ORIGINATORS  OF  THE  MODE  OF 

DRIVING  WITHOUT  REINS. 


C'opyrish*  secured. 


CONTAINING  A  HISTORY  OF  THEIR  FAMOUS  HORSES,  A  TREATISE 
FPON  DISEASES  OF  THE  HORSE.  &c,  &c. 

ILZLSTJIATED     WITH    25    FUII-FAGE    ENGRAVINGS. 


Stfe'tart: 


FISHER   &   FIELD,   PRINTERS.    19  CHATHAM   STREET. 

1838. 


4>2lfaL      T\ 


THE 
IMPROVED    PRACTICAL    SYSTEM 

OF 

EDUCATING  THE  HORSE; 

BY 

ROCKWELL  &  HUELBUET, 

ORIGINATORS  OF   THE   MODE   OK 

DRIVING     WITHOUT     MlEIXP*©. 

ILLUSTRATED    WITH    TWENTY-FIVE    FULL-PAGE    ENGRAVINGS. 


With  a  History  of  their  famous  Horses,  "TIGER,"  "STAR,"  and 
«  MAZEFRJL." 


TREATISE   ON  SHOEING. 


TOGETHER  WITH  AN  ACCOUNT  OF 

DISEASES  AND  THEIR  TREATMENT, 

W!TH    NEW   AND   VALUABLE    RECIPES, 

ALSO,    A  STATEMENT    OF    THEIR 

METHOD  OF  TRAINING  CATTLE  AND  DOGS. 

TOGETHER  WITH  THE 

RULES  OF  UNION"  COUKSE. 


Uefo-gorh : 
FISHER     &     FIELD,     PRINTERS, 

CCl     and    5(33     BROADWAY. 

18G8. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1SGG,  by 

A.     H.     ROCKWELL, 

in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the  Southern 
District  of  New-York. 


John  A.  Gray  &  Green's 

Patent  Steam 
Composing  and  Distributing  Machine, 

New-York. 


PEEFAOE, 


The  author  of  this  work  has  prepared  it  for  the  pur- 
pose of  correcting  many  erroneous  notions  which  now 
prevail  in  the  cure  and  management  of  Horses,  as  well 
as  to  place  in  the  hands  of  those  interested  a  valuable 
Instructor.  Embracing  as  it  does*  all  of  my  theories  and 
practices,  together  with  a  history  of  an  experience  of 
twelve  years  in  the  business  of  Training  Horses,  it  can 
not  fail  of  being  a  valuable  assistant  to  those  who  feel 
an  interest  in  the  education  of  this  noble  animaL 

In  the  previous  editions  of  this  work  there  are  many 
points  which  experience  has  taught  me  are  incorrect, 
.and  in  this  issue  I  labor  to  remove  all  such  erroneous 
impressions. 

I  also  add,  what  has  not  heretofore  been  published,  a 
history  of  all  Horses  now  on  exhibition  throughout  the 
country,  which  are  being  driven  without  reins — the  sys- 
tem being  entirely  original  with  myself. 

My  treatment  of  Diseases,  new  Recipes,  and  Train- 
ing of  Cattle  and  Dogs,  is  peculiar  to  myself*  and  I  hope 
to  make  them  useful  to  the  reader. 

The  account  of  Diseases  and  their  Treatment  may  be 
relied  upon,  being  the  result  of  personal  experience  and 
actual  test  and  observation. 

The  Author  of  this  Book  is 

A.  H.  ROCKWELL, 

Of  Harper 'sville, 

Broome  Co.,  JV.  Y, 

By  remitting  $5  by  letter  to  the  above  address,  a 
copy  will  be  forwarded  to  your  address  immediately. 
Don't  forget  to  write  your  name  and  address  plain. 

A.H.R. 


HISTORY  OF  THE  FAMOUS  HOUSES 

"  TIGER,"  "  STAR,"  AND  "  MAZEPPA,' 


AXD    OTHER 


HORSES   DRIVEN   WITHOUT  REINS. 


Most  of  our  early  life,  after  we  had  arrived  at  suf- 
ficient age,  was  spent  in  the  business  of  Breaking  Colts 
and  Training  Horses.  An  experience  of  a  number  of 
years  qualified  us,  in  our  estimation,  to  travel  through- 
out the  country  in  the  business  of  educating  the  Horse, 
practicing  such  means  and  using  such  knowledge  as  was 
then  at  our  command.  When,  however,  we  attempted 
to  do  business  outside  the  circle  of  our  acquaintance,  we 
invariably  met  with  a  repugnance  on  the  part  of  the  pub- 
lic to  have  any  thing  to  do  with  a  professional  "  Horse- 
Tamer,"  as  we  were  then  called.  So  many  persons  who 
were  entirely  unfitted  for  the  business  had  imposed  upon 
the  people,  that  they  wisely  refused  to  be  any  longer 
humbugged. 

Satisfied  from  our  experience  with  the  Horse  that  he 
possessed  more  intelligence  than  was  generally  accred- 
ited to  him,  and  feeling  the  necessity  of  doing  some- 
thing to   legitimately  bring  ourselves  into   notice,  we 


6  "  USEE,"    *  STAE,"    AND    U  MAZEPPA." 

put  into  effect  a  long-cherished  idea,  which  was  to  so 
train  a  horse  as  to  not  only  make  his  exhibition  a  nov- 
elty, but  to  satisfy  the  public  that  we  possessed,  by  means 
of  the  knowledge  we  had  acquired,  more  than  ordinary 
control  over  the  animal  which  we  advertised  ourselves  to 
educate. 

Being  confident  that,  by  means  then  known  to  us, 
we  could  teach  the  horse  to  be  driven  without  reins,  we 
made  our  first  attempt  upon  the  now  celebrated  horse, 
owned  by  us,  Morgan  Tiger. 

This  horse  was  sent  to  us  at  our  residence  in  Broome 
county,  N.  Y.,  to  break  of  a  very  vicious  and  long- 
standing habit  of  frequently  frisking  and  kicking  when 
hitched  to  a  wagon.  Tiger  was  at  that  time — August, 
1860 — owned  by  John  S.  Tarbell,  proprietor  of  the 
Franklin  House,  at  Montrose,  Pa.  We  applied  to  Tiger 
our  system,  with  marked  success,  and  in  sixteen  dags 
from  the  time  he  came  into  our  possession  we  exhibited 
him  before  the  Susquehanna  County  (Pa.)  Agricultural 
Society ;  to  the  utter  surprise  of  the  people,  driving  him 
— to  a  sulky — without  reins,  rapidly  around  the  track — 
turning,  stopping,  and  starting,  with  perfect  success. 

At  this  time  we  were  invited  by  Gov.  Geaky  and 
Gen.  Stuktevant,  two  of  the  managers  of  the  Pennsyl- 
vania State  Agricultural  Society,  to  give  an  exhibition 
at  their  forthcoming  State  Fair,  at  Wyoming.  The  fol- 
lowing notice,  heralding  our  coming,  appeared  in  the 
Luzerne  Union,  of  the  date  of  Sept.  19,  1860,  at  the 
close  of  an  article  upon  the  State  Fair: 

"In  addition  to  the  other  attractions,  we  understand 
that  Mr.  John  S.  Tarbell  will  be  present  during  the 
Fair  with  his  celebrated  Stallion  Morgan  Tiger,  for- 
merly a  very  wicked  horse,  but  lias  been  so  thoroughly 
trained  and  broken  by  A.   IT.  Rockwell,  of  Broome 


"  TIGER,"   "  STAR,"    AND    " 

county,  N.  Y.,  that  he  will  be  driven  around  the  course 
at  full  speed  before  a  sulky,  without  bridle  or  reins! 
Mr.  Rockwell  will  also  be  on  hand  to  exhibit  his  skill 
in  the  management  and  taming  of  the  worst-tempered 
horses." 

At  the  Fair  in  the  following  week  we  appeared  ac- 
cording to  announcement,  exhibiting  on  the  afternoon 
of  each  of  the  three  days.  Mr.  Rockwell  here  proved 
to  the  entire  satisfaction  of  himself  and  the  public  that 
his  theory  of  driving  without  lines  was  a  fixed  fact. 
He  drove  Tiger  to  a  skeleton-wagon,  with  simply  a 
surcingle  to  hold  up  the  thills,  without  bridle,  reins, 
breecbincr  or  breast-collar,  driving  him  at  a  slashing 
pace,  surging  him  to  and  fro,  breaking  him  up  and 
running  him,  turning  and  twisting  in  all  directions — in 
fact,  handling  him  with  all  the  ease  that  the  most  ac- 
complished horseman  could  a  well-broke  horse  with  the 
reins,  and  all  by  a  few  motions  with  the  whip,  without 
speaking  a  word.  At  the  conclusion  of  each  perform- 
ance Mr.  Rockwell  was  loudly  cheered  by  the  assem- 
bled multitude,  and  received  congratulations  on  all 
hands  from  the  most  skillful  horsemen  in  the  State,  for 
his  unrivaled  success. 

The  next  exhibition  was  at  the  State  Fair  at  Elmira, 
New- York,  in  the  same  fall.  This  exhibition  will  be 
remembered  by  those  present  as  exciting  the  wonder 
and  admiration  of  those  who  saw  it,  and  the  disappoint- 
ment of  those  who  were  not  on  the  grounds  at  the  time. 

After  a  few  other  exhibitions  at  County  Fairs,  the 
horse  was  returned  to  Mr.  Tarbell,  the  owner,  where 
he  remained  until  in  the  winter  of  1860-61,  when  Mr. 
Rockwell  again  took  him  and  gave  exhibitions  to  pri- 
vate audiences  in  halls,  walking  the  horse  up  and  down 
stairs,  to  and  from  his  performances.     This  he  did  foi 


8 


"  TIGER,"    "  STAR,"    AND    "  MAZEPPA.'5 


several  weeks,  in  the  States  of  Pennsylvania  and  New- 
York,  when  the  horse  was  again  returned  to  the  owner. 

In  January,  1862,  Mr.  Rockwell  purchased  Tiger 
of  Mr.  Tarbell,  since  which  time  he  has  been  almost 
constantly  giving  exhibitions  in  the  States  and  in  Canada. 

In  April,  1862,  Mr.  Rockwell  trained  the  pet  colt 
Baby,  a  three-year-old  dark  chestnut  colt,  with  a  small 
star  in  the  forehead,  the  near  hind-foot  white ;  a  splendid 
animal,  sired  by  Tiger,  and  purchased  by  Mr.  Rockwell 
and  Dr.  J.  H.  Caldwell,  of  Michigan.  Of  this  colt  the 
Hudson,  (N.  Y.)   Gazette  of  May  22,  1862,  says: 

"  Prof.  Rockwell  gave  an  exhibition  of  his  wonder- 
ful control  over  this  spirited  annual,  on  the  Fair  Ground 
on  Wednesday  afternoon,  in  the  presence  of  many  of 
the  most  distinguished  horsemen  in  the  county,  where 
he  drove  a  span  of  highly-mettled  stallions  attached  to 
a  light  wagon,  around  the  track  without  bridle,  reins, 
breeching  or  collar,  controlling  them  wholly  with  his 
whip  and  voice.  One  of  them,  a  beautiful  three-year- 
old,  had  been  broke  and  received  all  his  training  within 
seven  weeks.  After  this  feat,  the  Professor  hitched  the 
colt  to  a  skeleton-wagon  in  the  same  manner,  and  drove 
at  the  top  of  his  speed  around  the  course,  which  extraor- 
dinary performance  drew  the  wildest  applause  from  the 
judges  and  the  immense  throng  of  spectators." 

This  was  the  first  exhibition  ever  given  of  a  double 
team  driven  without  reins.  The  horse  which  was  hitch- 
ed by  the  side  of  the  colt,  was  Tiger,  his  sire.  Dr.  Cald- 
well has  since  purchased  our  interest  in  this  colt  Baby, 
and  has  traveled  in  the  Western  States  exhibiting  him. 

The  next  horse  broke  to  be  driven  without  reins,  was 
a  somewhat  noted  vicious  horse  belonging  in  St.  Law- 
rence county,  N".  Y.,  called  Twrco.  This  horse  be- 
longed to  Mr.  D.  Magner,  since  become  a  successful 


"  TIGER,"    "  STAR,"   AND   <S  MAZEPPA."  9 

horse-trainer,  whom  we  met  in  the  spring  previous,  and 
who,  upon  hearing  our  system,  dropped  the  old  systems 
which  he  had  been  practicing,  and  adopted  ours.  He 
has  since  written  a  book  upon  the  Training  of  the  Horse, 
and  has  beeu  a  valuable  aid  to  others  in  the  education 
of  this  animal.  His  horse  he  broke  himself  under  in- 
structions sought  of  and  given  him  by  us  by  letters 
written.  This  horse  has  since  been  exhibited  through- 
out some  of  the  Eastern  States  and  Pennsylvania. 

In  the  fall  of  1862  we  gave  an  exhibition  at  the  Na- 
tional Horse  Fair  at  Buffalo ;  soon  after  giving  another 
at  the  Provincial  Fair  at  Toronto,  Canada  West.  Thence 
Ave  proceeded  to  give  exhibitions,  and  hold  classes  for 
instruction,  with  great  success,  throughout  Canada  and 
the  New-England  States.  Among  the  places  visited  was 
Montreal,  Montpelicr,  Vt.,  (exhibiting  before  the  State 
Legislature,)  Brattleboro,  Vt.,  Springfield,  Mass.,  etc. 

At  Springfield,  in  March,  1863,  we  purchased  the 
horse  Star,  now  owned  by  us.  This  horse  was  sold 
to  us  upon  a  written  warrantee  that  he  was  "  sound, 
could  trot  in  2.50,  and  would  go  into  the  first  barn  he 
said  open,  in  spite  of  your  efforts  to  prevent."  We 
found  him  all  he  was  advertised,  being  especially  con- 
firmed in  his  bad  habits.  The  next  day  after  his  pur- 
chase he  was  driven  to  Hartford,  Ct.,  and  on  the 
following  day  he  wa3  brought  before  our  class  of  in- 
struction to  receive  his  first  lesson  in  driving  without 
reins  and  being  broke  of  his  bad  habits.  He  received 
such  training  as  we  could  find  time  to  give  him  While 
traveling  constantly,  giving  exhibitions;  and  on  May 
9th,  a  little  over  a  month  from  the  time  we  took  the 
horse,  we  gave  an  exhibition  of  Star  and  Tiger  hitched 
together,  at  Worcester,  Mass.,  the  horses  driving  beau- 
tifully without  reins. 


10  "tiger,"  "stab,"  and  "mazeppa 


M 


On  the  3d  of  April,  1863,  we  commenced  training  a 
wild  and  nervous  Black  Hawk  horse  for  Messrs.  Wil- 
liams &  Wilder,  who  were  at  that  time  receiving  in- 
structions from  us,  preparatory  to  giving  instructions 
themselves.  In  about  six  days  we  delivered  them  the 
horse,  and  on  the  following  week  they  gave  a  success- 
ful exhibition  at  Whittingham,  Vt.  They  continued  to 
give  successful  performances  for  some  months,  when 
through  entire  carelessness  on  the  part  of  the  driver, 
the  horse  was  severely  injured  by  the  breaking  of  a 
vehicle,  and  has  not  since  been  exhibited.  We  are  in- 
formed that  each  of  these  two  gentlemen  has  a  horse 
which  he  is  driving  without  reins,  broke  according  to 
our  directions. 

In  the  following  December  we  purchased  a  black 
stallion  at  Providence,  R.  I.,  broke  him  perfectly  to 
drive,  and  in  the  February  after,  at  Lowell,  Mass.,  sold 
him  to  a  gentleman  named  Gammox,  who  has  since  ex- 
hibited him  in  the  British  Provinces,  giving  lessons  in 
training  which  he  had  learned  from  us. 

At  Boston,  Mass.,  in  March,  1864,  we  sold  Tiger  and 
Star  to  E.  C.  Dudley,  of  Newton  Upper  Falls,  Mass., 
for  $5000  with  instructions.  Mr.  Dudley  traveled 
with  the  team,  giving  exhibitions,  until  January  1865, 
when  after  having  been  quite  successful,  (Mr.  Rock- 
well remaining  with  the  team  and  driving  them  dur- 
ing this  time,)  we  purchased  them  back.  After  re- 
purchasing them,  we  gave  a  famous  exhibition,  by  a 
permit  of  the  city  authorities,  granted  upon  petition  of 
many  prominent  citizens,  at  Fairmount  Park,  Philadel- 
phia ;  afterward  at  the  Dubois  Track,  New- York  City, 
before  an  audience  of  the  prominent  horse  fanciers  of 
that  city.  At  this  exhibition  we  introduced  our  three- 
year-old    stallion    Hamlet,    which    we    had    previously 


"tiger,"  "star,"  and  "mazeppa."         '    11 

trained.     Of  this  exhibition  the  N".  Y,  Tribwie  of  May 
20th,  1865,  says: 

"A  truly  novel  and  wonderful  exhibition  of  skill  in 
the  management  of  horses  was  given  yesterday  after- 
noon at  the  Dubois  Assoeiation  Track,  on  Eighth  Ave- 
nue, near  One  Hundred  and  Forty-eighth  street, 
Messrs.  Rockwell  and  Hurlburt,  the  celebrated  train- 
ers of  horses,  demonstrated  to  the  persons  assembled, 
the  great  superiority  of  mental  power  to  that  of  physical. 
The  exercises  were  commenced  by  Mr.  E.  A.  Hurlburt 
driving  a  two-year-old  colt  to  a  wagon,  without  the 
use  of  reins  or  of  any  other  harness  except  barely  suf- 
ficient to  fasten  the  horse  to  the  carriage.  The  horse 
was  guided  by  the  motions  of  the  whip.  It  would  trot, 
run,  turn  partially  or  wholly  around,  and  back  with 
perfect  ease.  In  fact,  it  appeared  that  the  horse  went 
through  with  the  evolutions  much  more  easily  and 
quickly  than  if  the  reins  were  used.  Mr.  Rockwell 
then  brought  forward  a  beautiful  span  of  stallions  which 
were  made  to  perform  the  same  feats.  These  horses 
were  so  trained  that  they  would  pass  and  go  around 
other  vehicles  with  the  utmost  ease.  One  horse  would 
canter,  while  the  other  would  still  continue  to  trot. 
The  horses  were  then  unfastened  from  the  buggy,  and 
allowed  to  roam  within  the  crowd.  Mr.  Rockwell  had 
one  of  the  horses  perform  some  tricks,  such  as  following 
him,  kicking  with  one  foot,  etc.  He  asked  the  horse  a 
few  questions,  which  were  responded  to  by  shaking  the 
head.  The  1  torses  were  then  trotted  around  the  course, 
after  which  Mr.  Rockwell  made  a  speech  to  the  per- 
sons present,  among  whom  were  some  of  the  owners 
and  drivers  of  the  fastest  teams  in  the  city.  They  all 
expressed  their  great  wonder  at  the  performance,  and 
their  wish  to  understand  the  art.     There  will  be  anQthei 


12  "TIGER,"    "STAR,"    AXD    Si  SXAZEPPA." 

exliibition  of  the  same  sort  this  afternoon,  at  four 
o'clock,  at  the  same  place.  There  will  most  probably  be 
a  large  gathering." 

While  in  Philadelphia  we  sold  to  Mr.  Dudley  the 
large  chestnut  horse  Hob  Roy,  afterward  used  by  him 
in  exhibitions.  This  horse  performs  tricks  in  the  pub- 
lic street,  taught  him  by  us.  He  has  since  been  exhibit- 
ed by  the  firm  of  Mag^er  &  Dudley. 

We  make  the  following  extract,  referring  to  two 
other  horses,  from  the  Chenango  American,  a  newspa- 
per published  at  Greene,  Chenango  Co.,  N.  Y. 

"Horsemanship  Extraordinary. — Nearly  every  day 
a  sight  may  be  seen  in  our  streets  which  is  very  sel- 
dom witnessed  elsewhere.  Messrs.  Le  Roy  Cowles 
and  J.  D.  Cowles,  of  this  Tillage,  pupils  of  the  cele- 
brated horse-trainer,  A.  H.  Rockwell,  have  two  stal- 
lions, one  a  large,  noble-looking  and  highly-spirited  ani- 
mal, well  known  in  this  section  by  the  name  of  !F//i. 
Miner,  and  the  other  a  beautifully  marked  and  grace- 
ful horse,  called  Spot  J>eauty.  These  horses  are  driven 
through  our  streets  without,  any  wins  or  other  modes 
of  guiding  or  controlling  them  except  by  the  motion 
of  the  whip  held  in  the  hands  of  the  drivers  who  are 
seated  behind  them.  They  drive  at  a  slashing  pace, 
turn  quickly  and  gracefully,  stop  suddenly,  back,  walk 
or  trot,  and  all  without  a  word  being  spoken,  and  by  no 
)ther  means  than  by  the  motion  of  the  significant  whip. 
About  a  year  since,  Mr.  Rockwell  gave  us  an  exhibition 
of  similar  driving  of  his  trained  stallions  Tiger  and 
Star,  which  excited  the  wonder  and  admiration  of  the 
public." 

About  the  first  of  December,  1865,  we  purchased,  at 


"tiger,"  "star,"  and  "mazeppa."  13 

Webster,  Wayne  county,  1ST.  Y.,  the  milk-white  colt 
Mazeppa,  and  in  the  last  of  March,  1866,  we  gave  an 
exhibition  with  him  before  the  public,  hitched  to  car- 
riage, without  reins,  at  Georgetown,  Ohio,  acknowl- 
edged by  all  who  witnessed  it  to  be  the  most  perfect  ex- 
hibition of  the  kind  they  had  ever  seen.  Since  that  time, 
we  have  exhibited  him  constantly,  through  Western 
Ohio,  Central  Indiana,  and  in  Michigan.  He  is  of  a 
perfectly  milk-white  color,  beautifully  formed,  of  grace- 
ful carriage,  and  is  advertised  as  the  handsomest  horse 
in  America.  He  is  now  so  trained,  that  we  hitch  him 
up  between  Tiger  and  Star  in  a  triple  pair  of  shafts, 
adapted  to  the  purpose,  enabling  us  to  give  the  only 
exhibition  ever  known  of  driving  without  reins,  THREE 
HORSES  ABREAST  to  a  carriage. 

We  had  forwarded  to  us  at  Columbus,  Ohio,  in  Feb- 
ruary, 1866,  a  dark  chestnut  horse,  bearing  the  same 
name — Rob  Hoy — as  the  one  purchased  by  Dudley. 
He  was  trained  by  E.  A.  Hurlburt,  at  Harpersville, 
Broome  county.  This  horse  we  hitched  up  with  Ham- 
Uty  at  Columbus,  his  trainer  driving  the  team  without 
reins.  At  that  time,  and  at  our  exhibitions  which  followed 
during  the  summer  of  1866,  up  to  June  14th,  1866,  this 
Mob  Hoy  was  owned  by  M.  D.  Hurlburt,  of  the  late 
firm  of  Rockwell  &  Hurlburt.  At  that  date,  Mr.  A, 
H.  Rockwell  purchased  him  for  $1000,  and  continued 
to  give  exhibitions  with  him  in  connection  with  his  other 
horses,  until  the  last  week  -in  August,  1866,  when  he 
sold  him  for  $1500  to  W.  W.  Hgtcbkiss,  of  Windsor, 
Broome  county,  N.  Y.,  who  is  now  giving  exhibitions 
with  him  and  Hamlet,  the  latter  horse  being  still 
owned  by  Mr.  Rockwell. 

This  concludes  the  history  of  all  horses  driven  with- 
out reins,  which  have  been  exhibited  to  the  public,  and 


14  "  TIGER,"    "STAR,"    AND    "  MAZEPPA 


5> 


it  will  be  seen  that  in  every  instance  their  training  is 
traceable  directly  to  ns  and  onr  system. 

Tiger  and  Star  are  still  in  our  possession.  Tiger  is 
thirteen  years  old,  of  the  Gifford-Morgan  stock,  is  a 
dark  chestnut,  near  hind-foot  white  —  a  beautifully 
formed  horse,  being  rarely  excelled  for  style  and  action. 
He  has  commanded  the  first  premium  wherever  offered 
for  competition.  Star  is  nine  years  old,  of  the  Black 
Hawk  stock,  (owned  by  Hill,  of  Vermont,)  a  beautiful 
dark  bay,  black  mane  and  tail,  black  legs,  faithfully 
representing  the  famous  stock  from  whence  he  sprung. 
He  is  also  superior  in  all  the  qualities  which  tend  to 
make  a  magnificent  horse.  They  each  weigh  one  thou- 
sand pounds  when  very  fat. 

The  driving  of  horses  without  reins  not  being  of 
practical  utility  to  the  public  generally,  it  does  not 
come  within  the  scope  of  our  instructions. 

The  foregoing  portion  of  the  work  is  not  private,  and  may  be  read 
aloud  to  those  interested. 


Copyright  secured. 


I 

11 


■^ 


TO  PURCHASERS, 

This  book  and  our  system  being  copy-righted,  pur- 
chasers have  every  right  of  using,  but  no  right  of  teach* 
ing  or  transferring  to  others  the  book  or  its  contents, 
Those  doing  so  will  render  themselves  liable  to  prose* 
cution. 


TRAINING-  OF  HORSES. 


Having  had  an  experience  of  thirteen  years  in  the 
business  of  Breaking  Colts  and  Training  Horses,  and 
having  given  particular  attention  to  the  nature,  habits, 
and  disposition  of  the  Horse,  we  have,  by  the  light  of 
our  experience,  made  many  valuable  improvements  in 
the  system  of  educating  this  useful  animal  to  be  sub- 
servient to  the  wants  of  man.  In  the  following  lessons 
we  endeavor  to  explain,  in  the  most  direct  manner  pos- 
sible, certain  infallible  rules,  which,  if  strictly  adhered 
to,  will  surely  and  safely  accomplish  the  desired  re- 
sult. Explanations  of  the  traits,  habits,  and  causes  of 
the  habits,  of  the  animal,  with  reasons  for  every  step 
we  take,  will,  as  far  as  necessary,  accompany  each  illus- 
tration. 

In  laying  these  illustrations  before  the  reader  we  de- 
sire to  impress  him  with  the  idea  that  we  are  not,  in 
the  common  acceptation  of  the  term,  " hoYse-tatners" 
We  have  a  higher  and  nobler  aim  than  to  merely  tame 


18  TRAINING    OF   HORSES. 

and  subdue  this  valuable  animal.  Our  object  is  to 
educate  him — to  operate  through  such  intelligences  as 
are  given  him ;  and  by  careful,  patient,  and  kind  treat- 
ment, guide,  direct,  and  teach  the  horse  what  is  required 
of  him.  You  may,  perhaps,  by  harsh  and  cruel  treat' 
ment,  break  his  spirit  and  compel  him,  through  abject 
fear,  to  obey  certain  commands,  but  unless  you  accom- 
pany your  acts,  which  should,  as  far  as  possible  be  gen- 
tle and  humane,  by  some  method  which  will  convince 
the  intelligence  of  the  horse,  and  which  will  thereby 
make  a  lasting  impression,  you  have  not  reached  the 
true  theory  of  Horse-Training. 

We  have  no  disposition  to  interfere  with  or  denounce 
other  systems,  but  in  putting  our  system  before  the 
public  in  printed  form,  it  is  a  duty  we  owe  to  ourselves 
to  fully  explain  wherein  lies  its  advantage  over  other 
systems.  This  can  not,  perhaps,  be  better  dene  than 
by  giving  an  example  ;  thus  : 

Suppose  you  have  a  horse  which  kicks  at  you  every 
time  you  attempt  to  enter  his  stall.  You  have  perhaps 
been  told  by  some  professional  horse-tamer,  that  if  you 
strap  up  one  fore-foot  and  tie  a  strap  to  the  other, 
then  pull  up  on  the  strap,  you  may  throw  the  horse 
down,  and  that  if  you  repeat  this  a  few  times,  he  will 
become  docile,  and  allow  you  to  enter  the  stall  without 
his  kicking  you ;  and  you  have  then  probably  been  told, 
that,  upon  the  theory  of  showing  the  animal  your  power 
over  him,  you  have  broken  him  of  the  habit,  and  that 
the  same  rule  will  apply  to  all  oilier  bad   habits.     The 


TRAINING   OP   HORSES.  19 

fact  is  that  for  the  time  being  you  have  tired,  wearied, 
frightened  and  broken  down  your  horse,  and  he  lias  no 
ambition  or  strength  to  kick  or  cive  evidence  of  other 
habits,  good  or  bad.  The  next  day  you  attempt  to 
enter  your  stall,  and  you  wTill  find  him  as  much  a  kicker 
as  ever.  You  quite  reasonably  ask,  "How  long  does 
this  horse-taming  last?"  The  tamer  will  tell  you  to 
repeat  the  operation ;  and  so  you  may,  until  you  have 
destroyed  your  horse ;  but  you  have  taught  him  nothing -, 
except,  perhaps,  to  fall  down  when  you  make  the  motion 
to  put  on  the  straps. 

We  believe,  in  a  measure,  in  subduing  the  horse,  but 
at  the  same  time  he  must  know  for  what  purpose,  and 
the  application  of  the  power  which  you  possess  over 
him  must  be  made  directly  to  each  bad  habit  of  which 
you  wish  to  cure  him,  or  to  each  new  habit  you  wish 
him  to  form.  We  wish  to  make  it  plain  that  our  theory 
is,  that  for  every  habit  you  cure  or  cause  to  be  formed, 
there  must  be  a  separate  and  distinct  lesson,  and  submis- 
sion and  understanding,  on  the  part  of  the  horse,  ob- 
tained in  each  instance.  This  is  the  only  submission 
which  is  of  any  real  value.  The  illustrations  which  we 
give  of  our  manner  of  proceeding  cany  this  theory 
into  effectual  practice. 

The  horse  trained  after  our  method  loses  none  of 
his  vigor  or  elasticity,  and  as  he  is  taught  each  lesson, 
if  our  advice  is  closely  followed,  it  will  be  given  at  the 
right  time  in  the  right  place,  and  be  founded  upon  the 
laws  of  nature ;  and  the  practice  being  continued  until  hab 


20  TEAINING    OF   HOESES. 

its   are  formed,   he   is   permanently  educated  to   your 
wants. 

Of  course,  a  horse  which  can  be  broken  of  a  bad 
habit  and  taught  a  useful  one,  may  by  the  same  rule 
have  his  habits  reversed;  or  may  by  careless  handling 
lose  the  useful  habit  and  acquire  bad  ones;  but  by 
proper  usage,  the  horses  taught  by  our  method  retain 
their  lessons  throughout  life. 

We  now  commence  our  illustrations  of  our  method, 
again  cautioning  the  operator  to  be  careful  and  explicit- 
ly follow  our  directions,  as  some  professed  horse-tamers 
have  borrowed  portions  of  our  system,  and  leaving  out 
some  apparently  trifling  yet  important  items,  have  con- 
tributed to  bring  the  business  into  disrepute.  We  begin 
with 

THE   WILD   COLT. 

The  first  step  to  be  taken  is  to  see  that  the  inclosure 
m  which  you  intend  to  operate  upon  the  colt  is  unoccu- 
pied by  any  thing  which  might  distract  the  attention  of 
the  colt;  for  instance,  fowls,  domestic  animals,  etc., 
raid  all  persons  except  the  one  who  is  to  undertake  the 
training.  This  latter  precaution  should  be  taken  for 
the  reason  that  the  presence  of  other  parties  would  an- 
noy the  colt ;  also,  that  by  allowing  them  to  be  present 
you  would  violate  the  conditions  of  your  instruction. 

Being  prepared,  the  object  is  then  to  get  the  colt 
into  his  training  place  as  carefully  as  possible,  using 
such  gentle  means  as  niay  be  convenient  and  most 
likely  to  be  successful  without  exciting  the  colt.     Every 


TRAINING    OF   HORSES.  21 

farmer  or  person  at  all  acquainted  with  the  management 
of  horses  knows  well  enough  how  to  do  this  in  his  own 
way,  without  being  governed  by  any  fixed  rule.  The 
next  thing  to  be  done  is  to 

EALTEE-BBEAK   THE    COLT. 

This  operation  is  often  accompanied  with  danger  un- 
less the  proper  steps  are  taken  to  avoid  it.  Our  ex- 
perience has  taught  us,  that  at  this  point  it  is  well  to 
be  governed  by  these  rules:  First ,  Provide  against  ac- 
cident to  yourself;  Second,  Secure  your  horse  against 
the  possibility  of  injury ;  27iird,  Accomplish  your  desire 
with  the  animal  in  the  quickest  time  possible  to  render 
the  lesson  a  permanent  one.  Having  these  rules  in 
view,  we  proceed  as  follows :  Take  a  stick  about  the 
size  of  a  rake-stale,  and  about  ten  or  twelve  feet  in  length, 
the  length  to  be  governed  by  the  prospect  of  danger 
from  the  viciousness  or  nervousness  of  the  colt.  Com- 
mence within  about  an  inch  of  one  end,  and  whittle  up 
a  few  stout  shavings  on  one  side,  whittling  toward  the 
centre  of  the  stick,  and  leaving  the  shavings  attached  to 
the  stick;  a  few  inches  from  the  shavings  alluded  to, 
(the  distance  to  be  governed  by  the  width  apart  of  the 
colt's  ears,)  whittle  up  a  few  similar  shavings,  whit- 
tling this  time  from  the  centre  of  the  stick.  Take  a 
common  rope  halter,  with  a  running  noose;  hang  the 
part  of  the  halter  which  is  intended  to  rest  on  the 
head  back  of  the  ears,  upon  the  shavings,  (they  being 
strong  enough  to  bear  the  weight  of  the  halter,)  turn 


22  TRAINING    OF    HORSES. 

ing  the  shavings  upward  for  security  in  holding  it. 
You  are  now  ready  to  commence  operations  with  the 
colt,  in  doing  which  it  is  advisable  to  understand  the 
fact  that  curiosity  is  a  strong  trait  in  the  horse,  and 
when  not  overcome  by  fear  or  some  other  powerful  in- 
fluence, is  sure  to  prevail.  This  you  can  test  previous 
to  operating  if  you  choose,  by  placing  a  hat  or  handker- 
chief upon  the  end.  of  your  stick  and  holding  it  toward 
the  colt.  He  may  be  alarmed,  at  first,  but  if  you  re- 
main quiet,  moving  the  object  gently,  the  nature  of  the 
colt  will  be  to  reach  his  nose  toward  it,  and  quite 
likely  to  touch  it.  He  will  soon  become  accustomed  to 
the  stick,  and  will  manifest  the  same  curiosity  in  regard 
to  the  halter.  You  will  now  take  the  halter,  with  the 
noose  unloosened  perhaps  half  the  length  of  the  halter- 
stale,  holding  the  end  with  the  stick  in  both  hands,  the 
halter  being  placed  upon  the  shavings  as  before  sug- 
gested. If  the  halter-stale  is  not  long  enough,  attach 
a  piece,  as  it  is  best  to  keep  yourself  as  far  as  possible 
from  the  colt.  The  colt  will  gradually  begin  to  smell 
at  the  halter,  when  you  will  hold  the  stick  pretty  well 
up  over  the  head,  and  while  the  animal's  attention  is 
attracted  by  the  swinging  of  the  halter,  and  his  nose 
near  that  portion  of  the  halter-stale  which  is  slipped 
through  the  noose,  you  will  gently  pass  the  rope  over 
his  ears,  and  turning  the  stick  half  round,  drop  the  rope 
from  the  shavings  upon  the  colt's  head  just  back  of  the 
ears.  This  will  probably  cause  the  colt  to  start  back, 
and  by  holding  firmly  upon  the  halter-stale,  the  noose 


TRAINING    OF    HORSES.  23 

will  be  drawn  up,  fastening  the  halter  upon  the  head. 
The  stick  may  now  be  laid  aside. 

Having  your  colt  haltered,  your  object  is  now  to 
teach  him  its  use.  You  will  take  a  position  about  op- 
posite the  shoulder,  still  keeping  at  a  distance,  and  give 
him  a  sharp,  short  pull  toward  you,  sufficient  to  move 
him,  immediately  slackening  your  pull.  The  object  in 
doing  this  is  to  cause  the  animal  to  feel  your  power  to 
move  him,  and  by  slackening  the  pull  you  do  not  give 
him  time  to  resist,  which,  if  the  pull  should  be  steady, 
he  will  do,  even  to  the  extent  of  throwing  himself  down, 
(which  is  to  be  always  avoided.)  This  you  may  re- 
peat for  a  few  times,  until  the  disposition  to  resist  seems 
to  grow  weaker.  You  will  then  repeat  the  operation 
upon  the  other  side,  alternating  from  side  to  side,  (al- 
ways avoiding  a  forward  pull,)  and  continuing  the  short 
pulls  until  the  colt  either  moves  readily  or  becomes 
stubborn.  The  reason  for  working  upon  both  sides  is, 
that  in  this,  as  well  as  all  other  joints  which  you  at- 
tempt to  instruct  the  horse,  there  are  two  sides  to  teach. 
What  he  learns  to  do  from  one  side  must  be  learned  by 
the  Same  process  on  the  other  side,  in  order  to  have  the 
same  understanding  of  what  is  required  of  him.  The 
reason  for  avoiding  a  forward  pull  is,  that  you  can  not 
easily  move  the  colt  in  that  direction  ;  and  as  he  learns 
from  your  acts,  you  should  attempt  to  perform  no  act 
in  which  you  are  not  reasonably  sure  to  succeed. 

If  the  colt  appear  ^  to  be  of  a  yielding  disposition,  you 
will  now  gradually  shorten  your  hold  upon  the  halter, 


24  TRAINING    OF   HORSES. 

as  you  pull  from  side  to  side,  being  watchful  to  avoid 
the  possibility  of  his  striking  or  kicking  you,  until  you 
come  within  reach  of  his  head,  when  you  will  gently 
put  forth  your  hand  and  allow  him  to  examine  it  with 
his  nose — that  organ  being  the  one  made  use  of  by  all 
horses  to  test  the  danger  or  harmlessness  of  substances 
which  alarm  them.  As  he  becomes  accustomed  to  your 
2>resence,  which  he  will  readily  do  if  you  are  gentle,  you 
will  then  proceed  to  carefully  caress  him  over  the  face 
and  forehead,  gradually  extending  your  hand  down  his 
neck,  being  cautious  not  to  touch  his  ears.  As  soon  as 
he  begins  to  cringe  or  grow  restive  under  your  hand, 
remove  it  and  gently  place  it  again  near  his  nose,  re- 
peating the  former  operation,  extending  the  hand  far- 
ther and  farther  at  each  repetition,  until  he  becomes 
calm.  You  will  now  quietly  tie  a  knot  through  the 
noose,  so  that  it  can  not  slip,  leaving  it  quite  loose,  to 
avoid  hurting  him.  Remember  that  up  to  this  point 
you  have  not  hurt  the  colt,  and  have  therefore  called 
out  no  undue  resistance  on  his  part.  The  main  objec- 
tion to  a  rope  halter  has  been  that  it  was  used  in  such 
a  manner  as  to  hurt  the  colt.  We  obviate  this  objec- 
tion, first,  by  the  short  pull  and  slackening  up  before 
the  resistance  is  excited ;  second,  by  tying  the  knot  as 
soon  as  practicable,  so  that  the  noose  can  not  tighten 
around  the  nose.  At  any  time  after  this  during  th« 
process,  when  you  can  safely  do  so,  you  may,  if  you 
choose,  change  to  a  strap  halter.  You  will  now  step 
back    and  repeat  the  pulling  operation,  being  careful 


TRAINING   OF   HORSES.  25 

to  get  a  sicJe  pull.  As  you  pass  in  front,  if  the  eolfc 
shows  a  disposition  to  move,  instead  of  pulling  imme- 
diately, first  approach  and  caress  him,  performing  slowly 
and  gently,  and,  as  far  as  you  can,  encouraging  the  ani- 
mal whenever  he  shows  signs  of  doing  what  you  require, 
until  he  steps  willingly  without  the  pulL 

Should  the  colt  prove  to  be  of  a  stubborn  disposition, 
and  refuse  to  move  as  you  desire,  you  will  take  hold  of 
the  halter-stale  with  your  left  hand  about  a  foot  from 
the  head,  and  with  your  right  hand  seize  him  by  the 
tail,  and  give  him  a  few  sharp  turns  around,  pulling  the 
head  toward  you,  and  giving  him  an  occasional  kick 
with  the  top  of  your  foot  across  the  buttock.  (See 
Figure  4.)  This  will  have  the  effect  of  creating  a  de- 
gree of  submission,  the  colt  learning  that  he  has  a  mas- 
ter. Now  proceed  with  the  pulling  as  before ;  and  if  he 
remains  stubborn,  repeat  the  operation  of  turning,  twice 
or  three  times.  By  this  time  he  will  probably  appear 
to  brighten  up,  and  show  signs  of  being  willing  to 
step.  If  he  should  not,  you  will  take  a  bow-top  whip 
or  beech  limb  in  your  right  hand,  holding  the  halter- 
stale  with  your  left  hand,  you  standing  by  his  side. 
Hold  the  whip  over  the  back  of  the  colt  and  touch  hint 
gently  with  it  across  the  off-side  hip,  at  the  same  mo- 
ment giving  a  gentle  side  pull  upon  the  halter.  (See 
Ifigure  1.)  If  he  starts  with  this  movement,  caress  him 
and  then  repeat  with  the  whip.  If  he  does  not  start, 
use  a  little  more  force  with  the  whip.  If  he  is  still 
stubborn  and  does  not  show  signs  of  moving,  cares? 


fe 


TRAINING    OF    HORSES.  27 

him,  give  him  a  kind  look  or  word,  and  step  back  a  few 
moments  before  proceeding,  allowing  him  to  get  quiet 
if  he  appears  angered ;  as  the  reason  for  this  conduct  is 
that  the  colt  is  frightened,  and  by  your  kindness  and 
patience  alone  is  he  to  be  assured  that  you  do  not  mean 
to  injure  him.  He  will  soon  grow  less  excited,  when 
you  may  proceed.  As  soon  as  the  colt  will  step  readily 
at  a  slight  side  pull,  take  off  the  halter  or  throw  the 
halter-stale  over  the  neck,  and  let  him  go.  This  will 
do  for  the  first  lesson. 

The  colt  should  now  be  left  alone  for  at  least  half 
an  hour,  or  until  he  has  recovered  from  the  excitement. 
Any  time  thereafter,  the  lesson  may  be  repeated ;  and 
as  soon  as  he  becomes  perfectly  accustomed  to  obey 
the  side  pull,  you  may  then,  and  not  before,  commeuce 
to  teach  him  to  obey  the  forward  pull,  by  gently  pull- 
ing him  straight  ahead ;  and  if  he  leads,  no  matter  how 
little,  caress  him,  and  repeat;  but  be  careful  and  not 
pull  too  hard.  If  he  does  not  move  with  a  reasonable 
pull,  give  him  two  or  three  of  the  short  side  pulls,  and 
try  again.  In  a  little  while  he  will  obey  your  desire, 
and  lead.  Be  sure  and  not  give  a  determined  pull  in 
front,  as  it  will  not  succeed,  and  will  only  teach  the 
colt  your  weakness,  and  by  inflicting  pain  upon  him 
learn  him  to  pull  at  the  halter — the  natural  movement 
being  in  an  opposite  direction  from  whatever  causes  the 
pain.     You  are  now  ready  for 


28  TRAINING    OP    HOESE5. 

HITCHING  THE  COLT  IN  THE  STALL, 
The  stall,  which  should  bo  a  common  one-horse  stall, 
about  four  feet  wide,  should  be  prepared  by  having  a 
hole  bored  on  each  side  of  the  rear  end  of  the  stall,  to 
put  a  pole  through,  or  staples  driven  in  to  tie  a  rope  or 
strap  across,  at  about  the  height  where  the  breeching 
would  come  on  the  colt  if  harnessed.  You  will  lead 
the  colt  into  the  stall ;  and  if  some  other  person  can  be 
called  to  assist,  have  him  put  up  the  pole  or  strap — if 
not.  do  it  yourself,  being  sure  to  have  it  done  before 
you  tie  the  colt.  If  required  to  do  it  yourself,  first  pass 
the  end  of  the  halter-stale  through  the  ring  or  place  of 
tying,  and  keep  your  hold  of  the  end,  so  that  if  the  colt 
attempts  to  pull  back,  you  can  step  forward  and  ca- 
ress and  quiet  him.  The  reason  for  putting  up  the  ob- 
struction in  the  rear  before  tying  is,  because  you  there- 
by avoid  the  risk  of  the  colt,  through  fright,  pulling  at 
the  halter.  When  once  tied,  which  should  be  with 
considerable  slack,  if  he  attempts  to  back  out  of  the 
stall  he  will  hit  the  rope  or  pole  and  step  forward^  in- 
stead of  hurting  his  head  with  the  halter  and  pulling 
harder  to  avoid  the  hurt.  In  removing  the  colt  from  the 
stall  be  sure  and  untie  the  halter  before  loosening  the 
obstruction  in  the  rear ;  and  for  the  first  few  days  be 
careful  and  not  hitch  the  colt  where  he  can  have  a 
chance  to  pull.  By  observing  these  rules  for  eight  or 
ten  days,  there  is  no  danger  that  the  colt  will  ever  be- 
come a  halter-puller.  Bear  in  mind  that  during  the  en- 
tire process  of  handling  the  colt  it  is  proper  and  neces- 


TRAINING    OF    HOUSES.  29 

sary  to  speak  to  him  in  a  mild  manner,  for  the  purpose 
of  familiarizing  him  with  your  voice,  and  as  a  partial 
guard  over  your  own  temper.  Never  speak  sharp  or 
over  loud,  but  gently  and  firmly.  For  instance,  in  your 
side  pulls  say,  "  Come  here,  sir !"  This  kept  up,  will 
eventually  teach  the  colt  to  come  to  you  on  being  called 
by  these  words, 

TO  GET  THE  COLT  USED  TO  THE  BIT. 

Place  on  the  colt  an  ordinary  head-stall  with  a  joint- 
bit,  without  any  check-strap  or  reins.  Leave  him  in 
the  stable  or  yard  for  a  few  minutes,  then  remove  it. 
Frequently  replace  it,  and  allow  it  to  remain  on  a  short 
time.  By  this  means  his  mouth  becomes  used  to  the 
bit,  which  is  a  great  improvement  on  the  old  way  of 
putting  on  the  bitting-bridle  at  once.  After  a  few  times 
doing  this,  the  colt  is  ready  for 

THE  BITTING-BRIDLE. 
For  this,  first  prepare  a  well  padded  leather  girth, 
with  three  loops  firmly  riveted  on — one  at  the  centre 
on  the  back,  and  one  on  each  side  about  a  third  of  the 
way  down  the  side  of  the  colt.  The  strap  which  is 
attached  to  the  crouper  should  have  a  crotch  of  about 
six  inches,  and  be  about  twelve  inches  long  altogether. 
The  slit  part  to  be  buckled  to  the  crouper,  the  other 
end  to  have  attached  thereto  a  two-inch  ring  lying  flat 
upon  the  haunch.  To  this  ring  is  buckled  a  strap 
which  runs  along  the  back  through  the  loop  on  top  of 
the  girth,  and  has  a  ring  on  the  end  placed  perpendicu- 


30  TRAINING    OF    IIOItSES. 

larly,  to  which  is  to  be  attached  the  check-rein.  This 
strap  is  to  be  double,  so  as  to  be  taken  up  or  let  out, 
to  meet  the  check-rein,  and  to  be  adapted  to  the  length 
of  the  back.  To  the  ring  on  the  haunch  attach  two 
short  straps,  (one  on  each  side  of  the  back-strap  alluded 
to,)  about  eight  inches  long,  with  a  buckle  on  the  end 
of  each.  Use  a  common  head-stall,  with  the  gag-run- 
ners made  of  leather,  well  placed  up  toward  the  ears, 
and  with  a  large  joint-bit ;  the  throat-latch  to  be  made 
large,  and  to  buckle  under  the  gag-runner.  The  side 
straps  to  be  about  five  feet  long,  with  a  snap  on  one 
end,  and  holes  for  the  buckle-tongue  on  the  other  end. 
These  straps  are  to  be  fastened  by  the  snap  to  the  bit 
and  then  passed  through  the  side  loops  on  the  girth, 
and  be  buckled  to  the  short  straps  fastened  to  the  ring 
on  the  haunch.     (See  Figure  2.) 

Another  bridle,  known  as  Rockwell's  Bridle,  is 
cheaper  and  in  many  instances  better.  Take  a  common 
harness  pad  and  crouper;  pull  out  the  breeching-strap 
and  take  out  the  terrets,  (or  a  rope  around  the  body  and 
a  strap  for  the  crouper  will  answer.)  Put  on  a  common 
driving-bridle  without  blinds ;  under  all  circumstances 
use  a  joint-bit.  Take  a  piece  of  cotton  clothes-line 
rope,  about  eight  feet  long ;  place  the  centre  of  the 
rope  in  the  check-hook  or  fixsten  it  to  the  strap  which 
runs  to  the  crouper ;  pass  one  end  of  the  rope  through 
the  gag-runner  on  the  near  side  of  the  horse,  passing  it 
from  toward  the  nostril  back  through  the  ring  of  the 
bit;   draw  it  tolerably  tight,  and  tie  it  to  the  pad  or 


S2  TRAILING    OP   HOUSES. 

girth  at  the  side,  Perform  the  same  operation  on  the 
oft-side.  You  will  see  that  by  tying  the  rope  to  the 
girth  well  up  the  sides  toward  the  check-hook,  it  will 
compel  him  to  hold  his  head  high  and  will  throw  the 
nose  out ;  by  tying  them  well  down  on  the  side,  it  will 
lower  the  head  and  curve  the  neck,  at  the  same  time 
giving  him  the  power  to  move  the  head  up  and  down 
with  considerable  ease.  In  cases  where  bitting  is  re- 
quired only  for  the  purpose  of  suppling  and  developing 
the  muscles  of  the  neck,  this  bridle  shoukl  be  used,  as 
we  have  never  known  a  horse  to  be  injured  by  falling 
backward  by  being  geared  in  this  bridle.  Having  your 
bridle  prepared,  you  may  now  proceed  to 

BITTING   THE   COLT. 

In  placing  the  bitting-bridle  upon  the  colt  great 
care  should  be  taken  not  to  buckle  any  of  the  straps 
very  tight  at  first,  as  you  might  give  pain  and  alarm 
the  animal.  Be  particular  and  have  the  throat-latck 
loose  enough,  so  that  when  he  straightens  up  it  wii. 
not  choke  him.  Many  horses  have  been  ruined  by  care- 
lessness in  this  particular.  In  gearing  him  up  care 
should  be  taken  that  the  check  is  not  too  tight  at  first, 
Test  he  should  in  rearing  go  over  backward  and  fall 
nn  the  top  of  his  head ;  another  reason  ;s,  that  he  will 
thereby  yield  more  readily  to  the  side-reins.  The 
checking  up  should  be  governed  by  the  length  and 
form  of  the  neck  and  shoulders.  The  side-straps  should 
be  buckled  just  sufficiently  to  impose  restraint  upon  the 


TRAINING   OF   HOUSES.  33 

colt.  As  soon  as  the  colt  shows  a  disposition  to  yield, 
the  bridle  should  be  removed  or  the  check  and  side 
straps  loosened.  This  should  be  done  within  at  least 
five  minutes  from  the  time  it  is  put  on.  The  oftener  it 
is  taken  off  and  replaced,  for  the  first  three  days,  the 
better;  not,  however,  removing  it  while  the  colt  is 
sulky  and  refuses  to  move  his  head.  A  lesson  to  be 
taught  him  here  is,  that  he  can  not  be  loosened  from  the 
restraint  while  he  is  resisting  it.  This  will  prove  useful 
in  all  future  dealings  with  the  animal.  Should  he  prove 
unusually  stubborn  and  refuse  to  yield,  you  may  make 
use  of  what  we  denominate  the  "Yankee  Bridle,"  a 
description  of  which  and  its  use  may  be  found  on  future 
pages.     At  your  leisure  you  may  now  proceed  to  the 

HABNESSIJSTG  OF   THE   COLT. 

In  the  first  place,  harness  the  colt  and  allow  him  to 
walk  around  the  yard  or  remain  in  the  bam  about  a 
half  an  hour,  to  get  accustomed  to  the  rattling  of  the 
straps  and  the  feeling  of  the  harness  in  these  unaccus- 
tomed ])ositions  ;  then  remove  the  harness.  When  con- 
venient replace  the  harness,  for  a  short  time,  and  again 
remove  it.  The  third  time  you  harness  the  colt,  after 
he  has  been  harnessed  a  few  minutes,  pass  the  tugs 
through  the  ring  of  the  breeching  and  tie  them,  drawing 
the  breeching  and  breast-collar  pretty  snugly  against 
the  body.  After  a  little  time  you  may  commence  to 
drive  him  with  the  reins,  turning  him  in  different  di- 
rections,   and    gentiy  urging  him  forward,  impressing 


34:  TRAINING   OF   HORSES. 

upon  him  the  fact  that  you  control  him,  thus  teaching 
him  to  obey  the  rein  and  go  without  leading.  Be  care- 
ful each  time  to  repeat  the  word  "  Whoa !"  at  the  same 
instant  you  pull  up  on  the  reins  to  stop  him.  This  usu- 
ally occupies  about  three  days'  time.  As  soon  as  he 
appears  handy  with  the  reins,  you  are  then  ready  for 

HITCHING  UP   THE   COLT. 

If  possible  avoid  hitching  him  up  single.  If  it  is  real- 
ly necessary,  however,  to  do  so,  be  particular  to  place 
him  in  the  thills  as  quietly  as  possible.  As  there  is  no 
particular  danger  attached  to  this  transaction,  we  have 
no  established  rule,  leaving  the  operator  to  be  governed 
by  circumstances  and  his  own  judgment.  Before  hitch- 
ing him  to  the  wagon,  rattle  the  thills,  shake  the  wagon, 
walk  him  out  and  in  between  the  thills,  leading  him  in 
toward  the  wagon,  unchecking  him  and  allowing  him 
to  examine  in  his  own  way  the  object  which  is  so  new 
and  terrifying  to  him.  You  must  accustom  him  to  the 
wagon  or  there  will  be  danger.  If  he  continues  fright- 
ened in  spite  of  these  efforts,  it  will  be  well  to  let  him 
go  for  a  while.  If  after  one  or  two  attempts  he  still 
continues  excited  and  restive,  you  may  then  apply  the 
"  Yankee  Bridle."  For  the  method  of  its  use  see  future 
pages,  in  which  it  is  explained.  The  object  of  its  use 
in  this  instance  is  to  secure  a  more  perfect  control  of 
the  mouth,  to  be  of  use  in  case  of  sudden  fright.  If 
properly  used  twice  or  thrice  it  is  certain  to  secure  the 
desired  end.     You  may  then  hitch  him  to  the  wagon, 


TKMNIIY&    OF   HOUSES,  35 

and  drive  him  very  carefully  on  level  grou&d  for  a  few 
minutes,  for  the  first  few  times  avoiding  backing  and 
turning  if  possible,  being  careful  for  a  fcw  days  to  give 
only  short  drives ;  after  which  three  miles  and  back  will 
do  no  harm,  gradually  toughening  the  colt  to  do  your 
work. 

Our  method,  however,  and  the  only  one  which  can 
be  safdy  used,  is  to  hitch  the  colt  up  alongside  of  a 
broke  horse,  putting  him  on  the  off-side.  There  are 
several  reasons  for  hitching  on  the  off-side ;  one  or  two 
will  suffice.  It  is  usual  to  jump  from  a  wagon  on  the 
near-side ;  and  in  this  act,  if  any  accident  shall  happen, 
such  as  yourself  falling  down,  or  any  other  movement  to 
alarm  the  horse,  he  may  start,  and  if  he  were  on  the 
near-side  he  would  wheel  around  from  you,  and  per- 
haps do  damage  before  you  got  within  reach ;  while  if 
he  was  on  the  off-side,  he  would,  if  frightened,  wheel 
towards  you,  the  broke  horse  being  likely  to  remain 
steady.  Another  reason  is,  that  the  operations  with 
the  colt  have  thus  far  mainly  been  upon  the  near-side, 
and  it  will  not  seem  quite  so  strange  to  him  to  have  a 
horse  on  that  side. 

The  harness  being  on  both  horses,  (quite  loosely  on 
the  colt,)  with  long  inside  lines,  you  will  buckle  a  short 
strap  around  the  near  hoof  of  the  colt  just  below  the 
fetlock,  with  an  inch  ring  slipped  on  the  strap  before 
buckling  and  left  there.  Tie  a  long  line  or  rope  to  t|ie 
ring,  pass  it  under  the  girth  of  the  colt,  bringing  it  up 
on  the  outside  of  his  trace,  and  holding  it  with  tt\e  lines 


$6  TBAINTNG    OF   HOUSES. 

in  your  hands.  You  will  then  drive  the  team  about ;  aa 
you  start  them,  promptly  and  decidedly  using  such  word 
as  you  choose,  never  varying  from  the  same  word,  fre- 
quently pulling  up  the  lines  and  saying  "  Whoa !"  at  the 
same  time  drawing  up  on  the  line  attached  to  the  foot, 
until  the  foot  is  lifted  from  the  ground  and  held  there, 
leaving  the  colt  standing  on  three  legs  in  spite  of  his 
struggles.  After  a  few  times  doing  this,  you  may  un- 
harness him,  as  that  is  sufficient  for  this  lesson.  When 
ready  to  hitch  up,  which  you  may  now  do  at  your  lei- 
sure, you  will  do  as  before,  and  after  a  little  driving, 
hitch  the  team  to  the  wagon  and  get  in.  You  now 
have  the  foot-strap  alluded  to,  (see  Figure  3,)  passing 
from  your  hand  between  the  pole  and  the  colt's  near 
trace,  under  this  girth  and  fastened  to  the  near  foot. 
You  may  nOw  start  up  slowly,  stopping  the  team  once 
or  twice  while  on  a  walk,  saying  "  Whoa !"  as  before,  and 
pulling  up  the  foot-strap.  You  will  now  readily  per- 
ceive that  you  have  perfect  control  over  the  colt's  move- 
ments, whether  on  a  walk  or  run,  and  without  any  dan- 
ger to  the  colt.  The  colt  will  not  stumble,  strange  as  it 
may  appear,  it  being  almost  impossible  for  him  to  fall  by 
this  means  while  in  motion.  An  experience  with  upward 
of  one  thousand  colts  warrants  us  in  this  statement. 
Short  and  lively  drives  are  what  you  now  want  until 
the  colt  becomes  wonted  and  obeys  the  rem  and  word 
"  whoa."  You  may  then  change  sides  with  him,  to  teach 
the  other  side  of  him,  of  course  changing  the  foot-strap 
to  the  inside  each  time.     When  he  has  by  this  means  be* 


38  TEAINIXG   OF    HOESES. 

come  accustomed  to  being  handled  freely,  you  may  then 
hitch  him  up  single  or  double,  as  you  choose,  for  he  is 
now  ready  to  drive. 

TEACHING   THE    COLT    TO    BACK. 

This  should  not  be  attempted  until  the  colt  has  been 
driven  at  least  eight  to  ten  days,  nor  until  the  habit  of 
readily  stopping,  starting,  driving  and  obeying  the  reins 
has  been  formed.  Since  we  have  adopted  this  rule,  no 
colt  under  our  training  has  ever  been  known  to  balk, 
throw  himself  down  in  harness,  run  into  the  fence,  or 
refuse  to  stand  while  the  driver  is  getting  into  the  car- 
riage. When  sufficient  time  has  elapsed  to  warrant  you 
in  undertaking  to  teach  him  to  back,  you  will  take  a 
common  bridle,  or  a  bitting-bridle  is  best,  and  begin  by 
taking  hold  of  the  side-reins,  standing  in  front  of  the 
colt,  and  gently  pushing  backward,  saying  "  Back ! "  at 
the  time  he  steps  back.  This  you  will  repeat  until  he 
readily  takes  two  or  three  steps  backward,  when  you 
will  release  him  for  the  present.  At  the  next  trial  you 
may  put  on  the  reins  and  take  your  position  behind 
him,  passing  the  reins  through  the  side-loops  of  the 
girth,  or,  if  obliged  to  use  a  harness,  through  the  thill- 
straps,  holding  the  reins  well  down  by  his  side  to  pre- 
vent him  from  turning  round  and  facing  you.  Have  him 
loosely  checked.  As  you  step  behind  him,  pull  gently 
on  the  reins,  and  as  he  steps  backward  say  "  Back !"  and 
immediately  slacken  the  lines.  A  half  an  hour's  exer- 
cise is  usually  sufficient  at  a  time,  repeating  the  opera- 
tion until  he  backs  readily.     It  is  well  to  give  him  one 


TRAINING   frF   HOUSES.  39 

or  two  sharp,  steady  pulls,  for  eight  or  ten  feet  back- 
ward just  before  leaving  him  each  time.  He  is  now 
ready  to  be  hitched  up  as  you  usually  hitch  up  your 
horses,  and  ready  to-  form  the  habit  of  backing  to  wagon 
at  the  word.  Be  careful  for  the  first  few  times  not  to 
ask  him  to  back  with  a  load,  each  time  having  the  wag- 
on in  a  favorable  position,  such  as  descending  ground, 
when  the  attempt  is  made.  By  using  this  caution  the 
colt  will  soon  learn  to  be  handy,  and  practice  will  ena- 
ble him  to  be  perfect.  Under  all  circumstances  in  hand- 
ling the  colt,  preserve  your  temper,  no  matter  how  much 
inconvenienced ;  for  if  you  lose  control  of  yourself,  you 
will  be  sure  to  lose  control  of  your  charge.  The  colt 
is  to  be  governed  by  kindness  and  determination,  not  by 
abuse  and  tyranny. 

HIDING-  THE  COLT. 
This  should  not  be  done  until  he  is  well  bridle-broke. 
Begin  the  lesson  in  the  barn  or  yard.  Place  on  him  2, 
common  riding-bridle,  without  girth  or  martingale. 
Tic  the  bridle-reins  together  on  top  of  the  neck,  tight 
enough  to  check  him  a  very  little.  Stand  on  the  near- 
side near  the  shoulder;  throw  a  webbing  or  tie-strap 
across  the  Avithers,  near  where  the  reins  lie.  Quietly 
reach  under  in  front  and  caress  the  fore-legs,  and  as 
soon  as  he  is  sufficiently  calmed,  tie  the  webbing  or 
strap  to  the  off-side  foot,  just  below  the  fetlock.  If  he 
is  restive,  and  prevents  you  from  tying  it,  or  shows 
signs  of  striking  or  kicking,  take  him  by  the  head  and 


TRAINING    OP    IIOKSES.  41 

tail,  the  left  hand  well  up  to  the  head,  and  whirl  him 
around  two  or  three  times,  (see  Figure  4,)  and  while 
lie  is  disconcerted  by  this  movement,  stoop  and  tie  the 
strap.  Then  take  hold  of  the  near  rein  within  about 
four  inches  of  the  head,  and  with  the  right  hand  draw 
up  on  the  strap  so  as  to  pull  the  foot  clear  from  the 
ground,  at  the  same  time  pulling  on  the  rein  toward 
you  quite  firmly,  until  he  has  made  two  or  three  hops 
on  three  legs.  The  points  to  be  gained  by  this  are, 
first,  you  teach  the  colt  that  he  is  not  to  be  hurt  and 
that  he  can  not  get  away.  This  tends  to  prevent  his 
"  plunging  "  when  you  afterward  attempt  to  ride  him  j 
second,  by  pulling  the  strap  across  the  back,  it  accus- 
toms him  tO  bear  a  weight  upon  the  back ;  third,  it  pre- 
vents him  from  throwing  himself  over  backward ; 
fourth,  it  accomplishes  your  desire  in  a  safer  and  quicker 
way  than  any  other  known.  Now  take  a  shorter  hold 
on  the  web  or  strap,  with  the  foot  held  up,  passing  your 
right  arm  well  over  his  back,  with  the  left  hand  hold  of 
the  near  rein  and  mane  near  the  withers,  and  then  make 
the  motion  of  mounting.  Do  this  a  few  times  until  the 
colt  becomes  accustomed  to  the  new  positions  and  move- 
ments. Then  gently  mount  him,  the  foot  being  still  held 
up.  (See  Figure  5.)  Now  let  down  the  foot  and  start 
him  along.  If  he  shows  signs  of  being  restive  or  at- 
tempting to  throw  you,  pull  up  the  foot  and  caress  him. 
He  will  not  fall  down  while  the  foot  is  up,  as  it  might 
be  supposed  he  would.  Keep  well  hold  of  the  foot- 
strap,  untie  the  knot  in  the  reins,  and,  letting  down  the 


Figure  5. 


TRAINING    OF   HORSES.  43 

foot,  commence  turning  him  from  side  to  side  and  urg- 
ing him  forward.  If  he  is  unwilling  to  start,  take  a 
short  bow-top  whip  or  switch,  holding  it  in  the  same 
hand  with  which  you  hold  the  foot-strap,  and  gently, 
touch  him  with  it  on  the  off  hind-leg,  just  back  of  the( 
stifle,  gradually  increasing  the  blows  until  he  starts,  at 
the  same  time  loosening  the  reins.  In  turning  him,  use 
caution  and  do  not  pull  upon  but  one  rein  at  a  time,  for  the 
reason  that,  if  you  pull  upon  both,  the  colt  will  be  apt  to 
run  backward,  sideways,  and  otherwise  act  awkwardly. 
Do  not  ride  him  at  a  distance  the  first  time.  This  les- 
son with  the  foot-strap  should  be  repeated  three  or  four 
times,  until  the  colt  is  accustomed  to  your  presence  on 
his  back,  and  your  legs  against  his  side.  Having  never 
been  thrown  from  a  colt  since  we  adopted  this  plan,  we 
firmly  believe  that  no  better  method  of  training  a  colt  to 
ride  is  known.  We  deem  the  old  and  tedious  process  of 
pelting  and  coaxing,  using  blocks,  etc.,  to  be  entirely 
useless,  as  it  will  be  seen  at  a  glance  that  by  this  process 
we  run  no  risk  of  injury  to  ourselves  or  the  animal,  and 
at  the  same  time  readily  obtain  entire  submission  to  our 
control. 

TO    MOUNT    THE    COLT. 

Take  hold  of  the  mane  with  your  left  hand,  placing 
the  right  hand  upon  the  back ;  then  springing  lightly, 
raise  yourself  upon  your  wrists  until  your  middle  reaches 
the  height  of  the  horse's  withers,  when  as  you  lean  over 
the  horse,  with  a  quick  spring  you  throw  your  weight 
upon  your  wrists,  and  pulling  strongly  with  your  arms 


44  TRAINING    OF    HOUSES. 

and  with  a  quick  spring  you  throw  your  right  leg  ovei 
the  crouper,  and  are  mounted. 

THE    HABITS    OF    THE    COLT. 

The  habits  of  the  colt  may  be  classified  under  two 
heads : 

First. — Habits  acquired  through  improper  training,  or 
bad  and  careless  management  after  training.  A  colt 
which  has  been  correctly  trained,  if  watched  carefully 
and  promptly  checked  at  each  indication  of  bad  habits, 
will  in  a  short  time  become  settled  and  fixed  in  the  right 
way,  and  will  never,  except  by  extraordinary  or  willful 
means,  become  a  bad  horse.  A  colt,  however,  which  is 
improperly  trained  is  more  than  likely  to  acquire  bad 
habits,  and  it  is  to  the  cure  of  these  which  the  rules  we 
give  will  call  your  attention. 

Second. — Habits  which  are  bred.  The  class  of  habits 
to  which  we  allude  under  this  head  have  for  a  number 
of  years  occupied  our  thoughtful  attention,  and  though 
we  have  never  seen  or  heard  them  set  forth  as  import- 
ant, yet  in  our  opinion  a  volume  might  be  written  upon 
the  subject,  replete  with  facts  and  suggestions,  every 
one  of  which  would  be  of  immense  value  to  the  breeders 
of  horses.  As  this  work,  however,  is  devoted  more  ex- 
clusively to  the  training  of  the  animal,  and  fitting  him 
for  use,  we  shall  content  ourselves  by  briefly  giving  our 
reasons  for  our  theory,  and  making  a  few  pertinent  sug- 
gestions upon  the  subject.  Close  reasoning,  and  analogy 
founded  upon  observation,  have  taught  us  that,  as  the 
colt  is  quite  apt  to  inherit  the  traits  of  the  dam  or  sire. 


TRAINING   OF   HORSES.  45 

or  both,  the  same  rule  applies  with  equal  force  to  the 
habits  and  dispositions.  It  is  a  well-settled  fact  that 
certain  traits  and  peculiarities  belong  to  certain  breeds 
of  horses,  and,  if  the  blood  is  not  crossed,  will  be  in- 
herited from  generation  to  generation.  Our  application 
of  this  established  rule  is,  that  the  same  will  apply  to 
habits.  We  might  extend  our  views  upon  this  subject, 
and  describe  how  inevitably  the  laws  of  nature  entail 
diseases  known  to  horse-flesh,  and  give  valuable  hints 
upon  the  danger  of  breeding  from  decrepid  or  unsound 
stock,  were  it  within  the  scope  of  our  present  subject — 
the  training  of  colts.  In  reference  to  the  effect  of  breed~ 
ing  upon  the  habits  of  the  colt,  we  can  not,  perhaps, 
better  explain  our  meaning  than  by  the  following  illus- 
tration :  Suppose  you  have  a  colt  which,  before  he  has 
ever  had  an  opportunity  to  acquire  bad  habits,  should 
show  signs  of  balking,  biting,  or  kicking.  You  say, 
"How  came  he  by  it  ?  He  has  had  no  chance  to  learn 
it."  If  you  will  look  back  to  the  character  of  the  mare, 
(possibly  the  stallion,  but  oftener  the  mare,)  you  will  be 
almost  certain  to  find  that  she  was  either  a  balking,  bit- 
ing, or  kicking  beast ;  and  by  a  nearly  unerring  law  you 
may  trace  the  connection  between  the  two,  and  charge 
the  bad  habit  of  the  colt  to  the  account  of  one  or  both 
of  his  progenitors.  Another  point  in  our  theory  is 
aptly  explained  by  the  following :  Briskly  (not  roughly) 
exercise  your  mare  with  foal — frequently  walk  her  as 
rapidly  as  her  gait  will  allow,  and  you  will  have  a  brisk, 
fast-walking  colt ;  on  the  contrary,  allow  her  to  be  stupid 


46  TRAINING    OF    HORSES. 

and  lazy,  and  you  need  not  wonder  if  her  colt  is  equally 
so.  The  ready  application  of  this  rule  to  all  habits  of 
the  mare  will  be  at  once  perceived,  and  needs  no  further 
argument.  There  are  exceptions  to  all  these  general 
rules,  the  colt  occasionally  giving  no  evidence  of  his 
lineage,  or  extending  it  back  one  or  more  generations ; 
but  it  has  proven  itself  sufficiently  clear  to  our  observa- 
tion to  warrant  us  in  setting  it  forth  as  a  fact,  that  much 
depends,  not  only  upon  the  constitution  and  habits  gen- 
erally of  the  progenitors  of  the  colt,  but  particularly 
upon  the  habits  of  the  mare  while  icith  foal.  We  there- 
fore advise  precaution  in  advance,  as  a  preventive  of 
trouble  with  your  animal  in  after-years. 

We  calculate  that  a  colt,  educated  under  our  system, 
as  thus  far  set  forth,  has  been  trained  out  of  these  bred 
habits,  if  he  ever  possessed  them.  What  we  now  intend 
is  to  give  rules  for  training  him  out  of  such  as  have  not 
already  been  eradicated  by  proper  training,  as  well  as 
to  break  him  of  such  as  he  may  have  acquired  through 
mismanagement. 

There  is  much  danger  accompanying  the  act  of  at- 
tempting to  break  bad  colts,  unless  you  can  proceed 
upon  safe  rules.  Those  which  we  are  about  to  give  we 
consider  certain  to  not  only  effect  the  object,  but  also  to 
insure  safety  of  life  or  limb  both  to  the  operator  and  the 
animal.  If,  however,  you  vary  from  them,  and  set  up 
plans  for  yourself,  the  responsibility  is  yours. 

In  carrying  out  our  system  in  regard  to  the  breaking 
of  the  colt  (as  well  as  the  maturer  horse)  of  bad  habits, 


TRAINING    OF    HOUSES.  47 

without  incurring  clanger,  we  are  frequently  compelled 
to  use  certain  implements ;  and  before  proceeding  with 
onr  lessons,  we  will  give  a  detailed  description  of  each 
of  these  articles.     We  commence  with 

THE   YANKEE   BRIDLE. 

This  consists  of  a  common  check  joint-bit,  with  rings 
at  each  end,  but  no  bars  ;  the  shorter  the  bit  is,  the  bet- 
ter. Put  one  of  the  rings  of  the  bit  in  a  vice,  and  press 
it  flatwise  until  a  ring  of  the  same  size  will  slip  over 
and  on  the  bit.  Slip  two  iron,  steel,  or  composition 
rings  of  about  the  same  size  on  the  bit ;  turn  the  flat- 
tened ring  half  around,  put  it  again  in  the  vice,  and  re- 
store it  to  its  round  form.  This  forms  a  bit  with  two 
rings  loose  upon  the  mouth-piece.  (See  Figure  6.)  At- 
tach the  bit  to  a  common  bridle  in  the  usual  manner. 
As  you  place  the  bit  in  the  mouth  of  the  horse,  have  the 
loose  rings  one  on  each  side  of  the  mouth.  Fasten  a 
strap  to  one  of  the  loose  rings,  bring  it  over  across  the 
nose  just  above  the  nostril,  and  fasten  it  to  the  other 
loose  ring,  drawing  it  moderately  tight.  Attach  a  strap 
to  the  brow-band,  bring  it  down  the  centre  of  the  face,' 
and  attach  it  to  the  straps  over  the  nose  in  such  a  man- 
ner as  to  prevent  its  slipping  down.  Take  a  piece  of 
stout  cotton  clothes-line  rope,  about  eight  feet  in  length ; 
tie  one  end  to  the  near-side  ring  of  the  bit,  pass  the  other 
end  under  the  jaw  through  the  off-side  ring  of  the  bit  • 
then  bring  the  rope  over  the  neck  from  the  off-side  to 
the  near-side,  placing  it  about  where  the  collar  usually 


£  s 


50  TRAINING    OF   DORSES. 

comes  ;  pass  it  down  the  near-side,  and  pass  it  through 
over  that  portion  of  the  rope  which  is  between  the  two 
hit-rings  under  the  jaw.  Now,  as  you  tighten  upon  the 
rope,  (see  Figure  7,)  you  will  perceive  that  the  tendency 
of  the  two  rings  which  are  attached  to  the  strap  over 
the  nose  and  play  loosely  upon  the  bit,  is  toward  the 
centre  or  joint  of  the  bit,  and  that  they  will  consequently 
press  tightly  upon  the  cheek.  The  sensation  which  this 
pressure  occasions,  you  may  illustrate  by  pressing  in- 
wardly upon  your  own  cheeks  with  your  mouth  partially 
opened.  The  effect  upon  a  horse  is  instantaneous  and 
irresistible.  We  have  spent  years  of  careful  study  in 
endeavoring  by  experiment  to  ascertain  the  best  method 
of  governing  a  horse's  mouth  without  injury  to  the 
animal.  This  method  is  the  result  of  our  patient  labors. 
It  can  not  injure  a  horse,  and  it  is  a  safe  and  reliable 
controlling  power. 

THE   LONG   FOOT-STRAP. 

i 

Take  a  soft  leather  strap,  an  inch  and  a  half  wide  and 
ten  inches  long,  with  the  inside  edges  shaved  thin,  to 
avoid  chafing.  Then  take  a  strap  of  firm  leather,  fifteen 
inches  long  and  one  inch  wide ;  on  one  end  place  a  buckle 
and  loop,  with  a  lap  of  two  inches  on  the  under  side  ;  on 
the  other  end  punch  holes  for  the  buckle-tongue ;  place 
the  last-named  strap  on  the  outside  of  the  wider  strap, 
in  the  centre,  with  one  end  extending  an  inch  beyond 
the  buckle;  then  stitch  the  whole  together,  commencing 
at  the  buckle  and  stitching  two  inches,  having  the  loop 


TRAINING   OF  HORSES.  51 

pretty  close  to  the  buckle  ;  then  slip  an  inch  and  a  half 
ring,  or  D,  over  the  outer  strap,  close  up  to  the  stitch- 
ing ;  then  proceed  with  the  stitching  for  five  inches,  and 
close  up.  This  finishes  the  strap,  which  is  calculated  to 
buckle  around  the  fore-foot  just  below  the  fetlock.  A 
strap  or  webbing,  to  tie  in  the  ring,  fifteen  feet  in  length, 
completes  the  long  foot-strap,  which  is  used  for  driving 
in  harness. 

THE   SHORT   FOOT-STRAP. 
This  is  simply  a  strap  or  webbing  about  ten  feet  in 
length. 

THE    SAFETY    SHAFTS. 

For  these  procure  three  poles  or  scantling,  about  three 
or  four  inches  through  and  twelve  feet  in  length,  oi 
tough,  stiff"  wood.  Lay  two  of  them  down  about  two 
feet  apart  at  one  end,  and  twelve  feet  apart  at  the  other 
end.  Lay  the  other  stick  upon  the  two  first  poles,  across 
the  wider  end,  near  enough  to  the  end  to  allow  about 
three  inches  of  the  top  pole  to  project  over  on  each  side  ; 
bore  holes  through,  and  with  an  iron  bolt  or  hard-wood 
peg  fasten  it  strongly  to  the  other  two  sticks,  to  form  a 
cross-bar.  Take  a  piece  of  wagon-tire  iron  about  three 
feet  long,  bent  in  the  form  of  a  breast-collar,  and  rounded 
on  the  inside ;  drill  two  holes  in  each  end,  through  which 
firmly  rivet  the  iron  to  the  inside  of  the  two  poles,  at 
the  end  where  they  are  the  nearest  together.  Just  for- 
ward of  the  place  where  the  irons  are  riveted  on,  bore 
holes  through  the  poles,  or  drive  in  staples,  so  that  a 
strap  or  rope  may  be  attached,  to  go  over  the  horse's 


62  TRAINING   OF   HOESES. 

neck  to  hold  up  the  shafts.  At  the  back  end  of  each  of 
the  two  poles  affix  a  "  dog,"  or  piece  of  iron  pointed  and 
about  four  inches  long,  extending  downward,  so  made 
as  to  prevent  the  shafts  being  pushed  backward,  but 
allowing  them  to  be  drawn  forward. 

The  " Yankee  Bridle,"  "Foot-Straps"  and  "Safety 
Shafts,"  are  the  only  implements  now  necessary  to  men- 
tion. All  others  required  are  such  as  are  in  ordinary 
use,  as  wagons,  harness,  whip,  etc. 

Having  explained  the  nature  and  construction  of  these 
implements,  we  proceed  with  our  lessons  upon  the  habits 
of  the  colt,  commencing  with 

HABITS    OF    COLT    IN    THE    STABLE. 

Rolling  or  Getting  Cast— If  the  colt  is  in  the  habit 
of  rolling  or  getting  cast,  tie  his  halter  at  a  sufficient 
2ength  to  allow  him  to  just  reach  his  nose  to  the  floor  ; 
lie  a  strap  or  rope  to  the  head-stall  just  back  of  the  ears ; 
tie  the  other  end  to  a  staple  in  the  flooring  overhead, 
about  a  foot  back  from  the  front  of  the  manger.  Have 
the  strap  or  rope  of  sufficient  length  to  allow  the  colt  to 
lie  down,  but  not  long  enough  to  allow  him  to  lay  his 
head  sideways  upon  the  floor.  He  will  not  attempt  to  roll 
over  while  the  top  of  his  head  is  held  up.  This  is  perfectly 
safe,  and,  if  persisted  in,  it  wTill  eventually  cure  the  colt. 

Crowding  or  Cringing. — If  the  colt  crowds  or  cringes 
upon  your  entering  the  stall,  you  will,  as  you  enter, 
gently  caress  him,  proceeding  quietly  to  assure  him  that 
he  is  not  to  be  hurt,  avoiding  loud  or  sharp  words,  and 
feeding  him  from  your  hand.     If  a  few  attempts  do  not 


TRAINING    OF    IIOESES.  53 

improve  him,  take  a  long  bow-top  whip  or  short  fishing- 
pole,  and  standing  out  of  reach  of  being  kicked,  place  it 
by  his  side  and  touch  him  lightly  across  the  fore-shoul- 
der, each  time  you  touch  him  saying  firmly,  "Stand 
around !"  being  very  careful  not  to  strike  him  so  as  to 
hurt  him,  nor  to  touch  him  near  the  flank.  By  touching 
him  on  the  fore-shoulder  and  avoiding  the  flank,  you 
learn  him  to  stand  around,  and  do  not  excite  him  to 
kick.  By  not  striking  him  to  hurt,  you  teach  him  that 
he  is  not  to  be  hurt,  and  that  there  is  nothing  at  which 
he  need  be  frightened.  Do  not  get  excited  yourself,  but 
coolly  proceed  with  the  lesson,  being  sure  to  stop  your 
whip  whenever  he  shows  signs  of  standing  around. 

Pulling  at  the  Halter. — If  the  colt  pulls  at  the  halter 
upon  your  entering  the  stall  by  his  side,  or  by  being 
frightened  at  hay  thrown  down  the  rack,  or  from  other 
exciting  causes,  place  on  him  a  strong  halter,  with  a 
long  halter-stale,  (the  halter  not  fitting  so  snugly  as  to 
be  liable  to  hurt,)  and  put  on  him  a  girth  ;  lead  the  colt 
into  the  stall  and  pass  the  halter-stale  through  the  ring 
or  place  of  tying,  seeing  that  it  will  slip  readily  back 
and  forth  ;  then  pass  it  under  the  girth,  between  the  fore- 
legs, and  tie  it  to  the  near  hind- foot  just  below  the  fet- 
lock, leaving  him  about  three  feet  play  of  halter-stale,  at 
the  manger.  Noav  carefully  put  your  hay  in  the  rack. 
If  he  pulls,  -he  will,  of  course,  lift  his  hind-leg,  which 
will  immediately  call  his  attention  to  that  quarter,  and 
he  will  lose  the  fear  of  being  hurt  by  the  hay  coming 
down.    If  you  prefer,  you  may  enter  the  stall ;  but  as 


64  TRAINING   OF   HOUSES. 

he  pulls,  get  out  of  the  way  by  climbing  into  tho  man* 
ger,  as  lie  will  plunge  considerably.  When  he  comes 
up  to  the  manger,  as  he  will,  caress  him  and  speak  kindly. 
If  he  is  very  confirmed  in  the  habit,  it  may  take  three  or 
four  days  to  eradicate  it. 

HABITS    IN    HARNESS. 

Putting  on  Harness. — If  the  colt  is  shy  about  allow- 
ing you  to  put  on  the  harness,  stepping  away  from  you 
and  refusing  to  stand,  upon  backing  him  out  of  the  stall 
first  put  on  the  bridle.  If  you  fear  his  getting  from  you 
while  attempting  to  bridle  him,  put  the  bridle  on  over 
the  halter.  Now  unbuckle  the  head-stall  of  the  halter 
and  allow  it  to  drop  off,  still  holding  the  halter-stale  in 
your  right  hand;  with  the  left  hand  now  pull  the  nose- 
piece  over  the  nose  and  pass  it  into  the  colt's  mouth, 
and  as  you  pull  upon  the  halter-stale,  the  nose-piece 
passes  around  the  bridle-bit  and  the  halter  comes  off. 
If  it  is  a  rope  halter,  you  proceed  in  the  same  manner, 
except  that  you  pull  that  portion  which  lies  back  of  the 
ears  over  in  front,  and  pass  it  down  through  the  mouth 
with  the  nose-piece.  Now  lead  him  to  the  place  on  the 
barn  floor  where  you  wish  him  to  stand  while  being 
harnessed.  Quietly  take  down  your  harness  from  the 
pegs.  If  the  colt  moves  from  his  position,  lay  down 
your  harness  and  lead  him  back  quickly  and  firmly  to 
the  same  position,  not  speaking  to  him  until  you  get 
him  in  his  place,  when  you  will  promptly  and  decidedly 
Bay,  "  Whoa!"  not  speaking  too  loud,  and  being  careful, 


TRAINING  OF    HORSES.  55 

in  pulling  him  around,  not  to  hurt  him — your  object 
being  to  teach  him  to  stand  in  the  place  in  which  you 
put  him.  You  will,  each  time  that  he  steps  out  of  it,  lay 
down  your  harness  and  put  him  back  in  the  same  man- 
ner, using  the  word  "  whoa "  each  time  that  you  get 
him  there ;  and  as  he  stands  still,  caress  him  about  the 
face  and  neck.  Now  quietly  take  up  your  harness  and 
reach  it  toward  his  side.  If  he  is  still  restive,  reach  it 
around  toward  his  nose  and  allow  him  to  examine  it ; 
then  slowly  proceed  to  put  on  the  harness,  not  being  too 
anxious  nor  in  too  much  haste.  This  operation  frequently 
requires  patience  and  perseverance,  sometimes  occupy- 
ing half  an  hour.  When  the  harness  is  well  on,  take  it 
off,  and  repeat  the  process  until  the  colt  will  allow  you 
to  put  it  on  without  flinching.  You  will  find  it  neces- 
sary to  give  your  whole  attention  to  teaching  this  les- 
son, as  you  must  watch  every  attempt  of  the  colt  to  step 
awray,  and  act  promptly,  so  as  to  learn  him  that  he  is  not 
to  step.  You  also  familiarize  him  with  the  use  of  the 
word  "whoa."  This  will  be  valuable  if  not  trifled 
away  by  using  the  word  needlessly. 

Stubborn  and  Refusing  to  Rein. — If  a  colt  is  stub- 
born and  refuses  to  be  guided  by  the  reins,  you  will 
now  use  the  *  Yankee  Bridle."  When  prepared,  step 
to  one  side  of  the  colt,  take  hold  of  the  u  Bridle  "  about 
two  feet  from  the  head,  and  give  him  two  or  three 
sharp,  short  pulls  sideways,  always  when  pulling  instant- 
ly slackening  your  hold ;  then  go  to  the  other  side  and 
pull  him  in  that  direction  ;  now  alternating  sides  at  each 


56  TRAINING   OF  HORSES. 

pull,  doing  it  as  rapidly  as  possible.  (See  Ficfiwe  7.)  As 
soon  as  lie  yields  promptly  to  your  pulling  straight 
ahead  as  well  as  sideways,  attach  to  the  bit-rings  a  com- 
mon bridle-rein,  without  martingales,  still  keeping  on 
che  "  Yankee  Bridle,"  and  mount  him ;  ride  him  about, 
reining  him  occasionally,  riding  him  up  to  the  particular 
places,  if  any,  where  he  is  most  inclined  to  act  willful ; 
and  if  he  refuses  to  yield  ready  obedience  to  the  reins, 
dismount  and  pull  as  before,  quickly  and  sharply,  with  the 
"Yankee  Bridle."  By  this  means  he  will  soon  be  ready 
^o  drive  up  to  or  by  the  place  you  desire.  Now  put  on 
the  harness,  with  the  rope  of  the  "Yankee  Bridle"  lying 
loosely  across  the  neck.  Take  the  lines  and  drive  him, 
and  if  he  is  again  stubborn  and  sheers  off  one  side,  with 
the  "  Yankee  Bridle"  pull  him  back  where  he  belongs. 
This  usually  takes  from  three  to  four  lessons,  given  once 
a  day.  Remember  and  have  your  colt  well  fed  and 
carefully  groomed,  as  a  colt  with  this  habit  is  more 
likely  at  times  to  have  low  animal  spirits,  and  the  object 
should  be  to  increase  them.  Be  patient.  It  is  not  with- 
in human  means  to  suddenly  teach  the  colt  what  is  re- 
quired of  him,  "  Horse-  Tamers"  to* the  contrary  notwith- 
standing. Having  taught  the  colt  to  behave  in  this 
particular,  you  must,  when  afterward  driving  him  to 
wagon,  at  each  time  there  is  an  appearance  of  a  renewal 
of  the  habit,  be  gentle,  and  as  he  comes  up  to  the  places 
which  excite  the  habit,  favor  him  rather  than  urge  him. 
You  thereby  prevent  the  forming  of  other  bad  habits 
growing  out  of  this,  such  as  balking,  etc. 


TRAINING    OF   IIORSES.  57 

Kicking  in  Double  Harness. — A  very  disagreeable  and 
Contemptibly  m,£an  habit — one  quite  likely  to  be  bred, 
out,  if  not,  sure  to  have  been  caused  by  mismanagement 
—is  that  of  crowding  against  the  pole,  and  frisking  and 
kicking  while  in  double  harness.  To  break  him  of  this 
habit,  and  in,vthe  act  of  breaking  him  to  form  other 
habits  which,  are  of  value,  take  the  colt  into  the  barn  or 
yard,  and  apply  the  "Yankee  Bridle."  Step  in  front  of 
him  and  pull  gently  toward  you,  and  as  he  yields  his 
head  to  the  pressure,  let  up,  (never  letting  up  while  he 
is  resisting,)  repeating  two  or  three  times ;  then  com- 
mence pulling  with  an  upward  pull,  raising  the  head, 
increasing  the  force  of  the  motion  gradually.  Remem- 
ber this  is  one  of  the  most  powerful  means  of  control 
ever  placed  in  a  horse's  mouth.  Repeat  until  you  have 
your  colt  ready  to  be  checked  up  with  the  check  exer- 
cising a  controlling  influence.  This  usually  takes  one 
or  two  days,  not  keeping  the  "Yankee  Bridle"  on  more 
than  five  minutes  at  a  time,  applying  it  as  often  as  conve- 
nient. Now  put  on  the  harness,  checking  him  up  as 
tight  as  he  will  bear,  and  apply  the  "  long  foot-strap," 
fastening  it  to  the  near  fore-foot,  bringing  it  up  under  the 
girth;  take  hold  of  the  reins  and  foot-strap,  and  start 
him  along,  pulling  up  the  foot  frequently  and  stopping 
him,  saying,  "  Whoa!"  as  you  pull  up,  turning  him  occa- 
sionally about ;  then  change  sides  with  the  strap  and 
repeat  uie  operation.  Take  the  long  strap  off  the  foot, 
tie  it  round  the  neck  and  pass  it  along  the  near-side  of 
him  and  put  it  between  his  hind-legs,  holding  the  near 


TRAINING    OF   HOUSES. 

fore-foot  in  your  left  hand  to  avoid  being  hurt.  Drop 
the  fore-foot  and  bring  the  strap  back  around  the  near 
hind-leg,  close  up  to  the  body,  on  the  near-side,  and 
pass  it  through  the  part  tied  around  the  neck,  and  com- 
mence  drawing  this  up.  He  will  probably  cringe  and 
be  frightened ;  keep  hold  of  the  bridle  well  up  to  the 
head,  with  your  left  hand.  Keep  tightening  the  strap 
until  he  allows  you  to  pull  up  his  hind-leg  without  strug- 
gling ;  then  change  to  the  other  hind-foot,  repeating  the 
same  process.  This  should  be  repeated  two  or  three 
times  if  he  is  very  spiteful.  When  completed,  the  colt 
is  then  ready  to  hitch  up  with  another  horse.  Hitch 
him  up  on  the  side  on  which  he  is  in  the  habit  of  kicking, 
with  the  "  long  strap"  around  the  inside  foot  and  held 
with  the  reins.  Walk  him  along,  driving  straight  ahead, 
pulling  up  the  foot  and  stopping  him  occasionally.  Then 
begin  turning  him,  doing  it  quickly,  and  managing  to 
have  the  pole  hit  him,  at  the  same  time  pulling  up  on 
the  foot,  but  compelling  him  to  go  around.  If  afraid  of 
the  trace,  change  sides  with  the  strap.  This  should  be 
kept  up  for  about  ten  minutes  at  a  time.  If  the  habit 
should  continue,  repeat  this  a  few  times,  when  he  will  re- 
cover from  it. 

Running  and  Kicking  at  Dogs,  etc. — A  colt  in  the 
habit  of  running  and  kicking  at  dogs  or  other  animals, 
or  constantly  on  the  look-out  for  such  objects,  may  be 
broke  nof  those  habits  by  applying  the  "Yankee  Bridle;" 
giving  him  two  or  three  sharp  pulls;  then  harness  him 
up  with  another  horse,  (never  hitching  him  up  single  for 


TRAINING    OF   HORSES.  59 

this  lesson,)  and  put  on  the  "  long  foot-strap."  Drive 
him  up  to  the  dog,  or  other  objeet,  having  a  person 
holding  a  dog  until  he  comes  near,  the  dog  being  tied 
so  that  he  can  not  escape,  and,  as  the  colt  comes  near, 
ietting  go  of  the  dog  and  causing  him  to  flounce  about 
in  struggles  to  get  away ;  pull  up  on  the  "  foot-strap,"  (see 
Figure  8,)  and  cautiously  compel  the  colt  to  approach 
the  object  of  his  fear,  and  gradually  impress  upon  him 
that  the  movements  of  the  dog  do  him  no  harm.  Your 
desire  beino-  to  teach  him  that  there  is  nothing  which 
need  to  frighten  him,  and  also  to  obtain  entire  submis- 
sion, you  will  repeat  the  process  until  the  object  is  ac- 
complished. It  will  be  necessary  to  drive  him  several 
times  with  the  webbings  on,  to  be  certain  that  the  cure 
is  effected. 

Pasture  Habits. — Very  important  habits  of  the  colt  in 
the  pasture,  such  as  jumping,  running,  etc.,  may  be  ef- 
fectually prevented  by  the  following  means:  Take  an 
old  strap  halter  with  a  fore-piece,  (old  because  it  will  not 
shrink,)  without  the  halter-stale,  fit  it  closely  to  the 
head,  leaving  the  nose-piece  loose  enough  to  allow  for  a 
free  movement  of  the  jaws ;  take  a  piece  of  common 
medium  harness  leather,  about  ten  inches  square ;  on 
two  sides  fasten  a  stout  piece  of  wire  six  inches  in 
length,  placing  it  so  that  the  ends  are  equally  distant 
from  the  corners  of  the  leather ;  bend  the  wires  in  a 
semi-circular  form ;  punch  holes  in  each  corner  of  tho 
leather  and  tie  in  leather  strings ;  place  this  leather 
upon  the  colt's  face,  the  semi-circles  up  and  directly  in 


TRAINING   OF   HOESES.  61 

front  of  the  eyes,  tying  the  strings  to  the  ends  of  the 
fore-piece,  near  the  rosette,  and  to  the  rings  at  the  end  of 
the  nose-piece,  or  to  the  sides  of  the  halter.  This  gives 
him  plenty  of  liberty  to  look  sideways,  but  he  can  not 
look  ahead,  and  so  has  no  confidence  to  either  jump  or 
run,  and  will  do  neither.  This  leather  is  invaluable  to 
those  having  the  care  of  young  stallions,  or  colts  to  be 
trained  for  trotters.  For  instance,  if  the  stallion  sees 
a  horse  in  the  road  and  starts  for  him,  he  will  lose  sight 
of  him  the  moment  he  turns  to  start  in  that  direction, 
and  of  course  goes  no  further ;  if  to  be  trained  for  a 
trotter,  by  the  use  of  this  leather  he  never  runs,  giving 
a  better  opportunity  for  the  walking  and  trotting  mus- 
cles to  be  developed. 

Another. — Tie  a  strap  to  the  near  fore-foot  below  the 
fetlock,  pass  it  up  under  a  surcingle  around  the  body,  and 
tie  the  other  end  to  the  near  hind-foot  above  the  fetlock. 
You  will  see  that,  when  he  attempts  to  jump  a' fence,  the 
fore-foot  is  drawn  up  under  him,  and  as  he  springs  to  leave 
the  ground  the  hind-foot  will  be  pulled  up,  and  he  will 
inevitably  remain  in  the  lot.  The  value  of  this  plan  is 
that  it  will  in  most  instances  eventually  cure  a  horse  of 
the  habit,  so  as  to  render  the  strap  unnecessary. 

A  caution  is  suggested  as  a  preventive  to  this  habit. 
In  transferring  horses  from  one  place  to  another,  they 
should  not  be  put  in  a  pasture  at  once,  especially  if  they 
have  been  in  the  habit  of  having  company  which  they 
leave  behind.  The  affection  of  the  animal  for  his  mates 
will  induce  the  attempt  to  rejoin  them,  and  he  may 


62  TRAINING    OF    HORSES. 

thereby  form  the  habit.  No  horse  ever  jumped  a  fence 
for  better  food,  unless  he  had  first  formed  the  habit 
from  other  causes. 

There  is  no  animal  known  whose  love  of  home,  or  af- 
fection for  his  kind  or  acquaintance,  is  as  strongly  devel- 
oped as  in  the  horse.  It  is  a  marked  characteristic  in 
this  animal,  and  is  one  of  his  strongest  impelling  mo- 
tives. If  a  horse,  recently  removed  from  a  neighbor's, 
escapes  your  possession,  you  instinctively  look  for  him 
at  the  place  from  which  he  came,  and  you  usually  find 
him  there.  Therefore  give  him  no  opportunity  to  es- 
cape, until  the  impression  is  in  a  measure  forgotten  by 
the  lapse  of  time.  There  are  times  when  the  desire  of 
the  animal  for  company  is  greater  than  at  others.  By 
taking  him  up  and  securing  him  at  these  times,  he  has 
no  opportunity  of  forming  this  unpleasant  habit,  where- 
as if  then  allowed  to  run  in  the  pastures,  some  exciting 
cause  may  impel  him  to  jump,  and  once  he  finds  he  can 
escape  confinement  by  jumping,  he  is  quite  apt  to  re- 
peat it  without  any  particular  cause. 

This  concludes  our  account  of  the  habits  of  the  colt 
and  their  treatment.  Of  course  we  have  not  spoken 
specifically  of  all  the  minor  habits,  but  in  the  main  ones 
which  we  have  given,  there  are  a  sufficient  number  of 
rules  laid  down  to  guide  the  sensible  operator  to  the 
proper  remedy  for  such  as  are  not  named.  Remember 
that  the  colt  is  being  cured  of  habits  which  are  either 
bred  or  are  caused  by  nervous  fear,  and  not,  as  a  gen- 
eral thing,  the  result  of  willfulness  on  his  part. 


TKAININQ    OF   nORSES.  63 

SHOEING    THE    COLT. 

To  prepare  a  colt  for  shoeing  the  first  time,  tie  the 
11  long  foot-strap"  (see  Index)  around  the  neck,  pass  it 
along  the  near  side,  between  the  hind-legs,  and  bringing 
it  around  the  near  hind-leg  close  up  to  the  body,  pass  it 
under  the  strap  around  the  neck ;  then  draw  upon  the 
strap,  holding  him  meanwhile  by  the  bridle  ;  the  colt 
will  probably  be  nervous  at  the  pull,  and  you  will  loosen 
it  and  caress  him  over  the  face  and  neck,  gradually 
tightening  at  each  successive  pull,  using  no  words  but 
gentle  ones,  and  not  saying  "  Whoa  !"  When  he  has  be- 
come accustomed  to  it,  lower  the  strap  to  a  point  just 
above  the  hock,  and  gradually  pull  upon  the  strap  until 
you  lift  the  leg,  at  the  same  time  pulling  upon  the  bridle 
with  a  side  or  back  pull  to  prevent  his  stepping  forward. 
When  you  have  thus  succeeded  in  easily  lifting  the  leg 
pretty  well  up,  you  will  find  that  you  can  take  it  up 
with  your  hand  and  hold  it.  The  same  process  must  of 
course  be  gone  through  with  on  the  other  leg,  and  after 
about  ten  lessons  your  colt  is  ready  to  go  to  the  blacksmith. 
The  rule  has  usually  been  to  take  the  colt  to  the  black- 
smith first,  but  he  is  more  than  apt  to  get  bad  habits  by 
being  forced  into  position  to  be  shod,  and  probably  gets 
pounded  to  his  injury  if  the  blacksmith's  stock  of  pa- 
tience is  not  very  large.  Shoeing  should  always  be 
done  as  the  feet  grow  tender,  and,  if  quite  young,  shoe 
very  often. 

HINTS    ON    THE    COLT. 

In    teaching   the  colt  words,  always  accompany  the 


64  TRAINING   OP   HORSES. 

words  with  an  explanatory  act — something  which  will 
call  his  attention  to  the  connection  between  the  word 
and  the  act;  for  instance,  in  saying  "Whoa!"  always 
pull  upon  the  reins  or  foot-strap.  JSfever  use  words,  either 
in  or  out  of  the  barn,  except  for  &  purpose.  Such  words 
as  "  Stand  around !"  "  Take  care  !"  etc.,  are  proper  to  be 
used  when  occasion  requires,  but  you  should  not  say 
"Whoa!"  when  you  mean  "Take  care!"  in  approaching 
the  colt,  nor  "  Whoa,  back !"  when  you  mean  either  one 
or  the  other.  It  is  well  known  that  it  is  difficult  for  a 
person  to  control  himself  in  this  particular.  We  there- 
fore strongly  impress  its  importance  upon  those  having 
to  deal  with  colts. 

Always  use  a  short  joint-bit  with  long  bars  on  the 
colt,  on  account  of  teaching  him  the  right  place  for  the 
tongue,  etc. 

Kickers  in  harness  should  always  be  checked 
high. 

The  colt  should  be  caught  with  your  hands  and  held 
at  two  days  old,  and  tamed  before  haltering ;  haltered 
and  taught  to  lead  at  between  two  or  three  months  of 
age ;  broke  to  harness  from  two  to  three  years  of  age  ; 
broke  to  ride  at  three  years  old ;  and  not  to  be  worked  . 
until  five,  nor  hard-worked  until  seven  years  old.  A 
mare  may  be  worked  one  year  younger. 

The  whip  should  be  feared  rather  than  felt.  When- 
ever used  it  should  be  accompanied  with  the  proper 
words,  and  its  meaning  understood;  use  the  whip  only 
to  insure  promptness— not  to  teach. 


EDUCATION   OF   THE   HOESE 


In  treating  upon  this  subject  we  are  well  aware  ol  the 
difficulties  under  which  we  labor.  We  are  conscious  ol 
the  fact  that  we  are  quite  apt  to  excite  the  prejudices  oi 
men  who,  having  managed  horses  to  a  considerable  ex- 
tent, and  having  ways  of  their  own  with  which  they  are 
satisfied,  are  likely  to  cry  "  humbug"  to  any  idea  which 
to  them  is  new  and  strange.  We  are  also  aware  that 
there  already  exists  in  the  minds  of  many  intelligent 
persons  a  settled  opposition  to  all  professionals  whose 
business  is  pretending  to  improve  the  Horse — an  oppo- 
sition arising  from  the  many  failures  among  that  class, 
and  the  consequent  damage  done  to  their  animals  by 
being  handled  by  such  men,  or  under  their  instructions. 
We  have  no  reason  to  expect  that  we  can  obliterate 
these  prejudices  entirely,  but  we  have  faith  to  believe 
that  if  we  are  given  a  careful  hearing,  and  our  advice 
put  into  practice,  we  shall  do  much  to  improve  the  opin- 
ions of  the  people  upon  the  subject  of  the  "Education 
of  the  Horse"  We  do  not  expect  to  improve  their 
opinion  of  "  Horse-  Taming"    It  may  be  of  some  service, 


C6  TRAINING   OF   HOKSES". 

but,  in  common  with  thousands  of  others,  we  fail  to  see 
it.  The  distinction  between  taming  and  educating  is 
clear  and  positive,  and  can  not  be  gainsaid  by  even  the 
most  careless  observer.  We  think  we  have  made  this 
sufficiently  clear  in  previous  pages,  but  desire  to  impress 
the  point,  as  it  is  on  account  of  the  "  Horse- Tamers  "  that 
the  existing  prejudices  have  mainly  arisen. 

We  have  devoted  our  lives  to  the  investigation  and 
study  of  this  subject,  and  whether  our  efforts  have  been 
of  any  value  to  the  public  or  not,  we  are  certain  of 
having  had  a  very  extensive  experience  with  horses. 
We  do  not  by  any  means  claim  to  be  infallible,  but  we 
speak  of  this  to  satisfy  the  public  that  ours  is  no  system 
picked  up  in  a  day,  but  that  it  is  the  result  of  incessant 
labor  for  years.  Of  one  thing  we  can  assure  the  public, 
that,  whether  the  ideas  wTe  advance  are  original  with 
ourselves  or  whether  they  are  ideas  of  others  adapted  to 
our  system,  neither  are  recommended  without  first  hav- 
ing been  put  thoroughly  to  the  test  by  actual  personal 
experience.  We  advise  no  plan  which  we  have  not  suc- 
cessfully tried,  and  found  to  be  valuable. 

There  is  a  certain  moral  responsibility  resting  upon 
the  author  of  works  of  this  nature,  which  is  embarras- 
sing to  a  high  degree.  The  rules  which  he  sets  forth  are 
sometimes  deviated  from  without  the  knowledge  of  the 
operator  himself — either  from  his  not  clearly  under- 
standing the  meaning,  or  from  his  having  too  loosely 
scanned  the  printed  instructions — and  the  desired  result 
is  not  reached.     This  leads  to  a  distrust  of  the  system. 


TRAINING   OF   HORSES.  G7 

Occasionally,  too,  circumstances  may  arise  in  the  hand- 
ling of  the  horse  which  no  foresight  could  have  provided 
against,  and  if  the  operator  does  not  find  in  the  book 
a  remedy  for  his  difficulty  he  lays  it  aside  in  disgust. 
Nevertheless  we  submit  our  work,  confident  of  being 
able  to  be  of  some  public  service. 

We  have  heretofore,  in  this  volume,  treated  almost 
exclusively  upon  the  education  of  the  colt  and  the  treat- 
ment of  his  habits.  We  now  come  to  speak  of  a  subject 
which  in  almost  all  its  aspects  needs  to  be  treated  from 
an  entirely  different  stand-point.  The  colt  is  impelled 
to  his  awkwardness  and  bad  habits  by  natural  impulses 
of  timidity  and  consequent  fear,  while  the  mature  horse 
is  actuated  more  by  a  strong  self-will,  his  habits  being 
formed  through  ignorance  or  negligence  of  his  keeper ; 
therefore  the  rules  which  apply  to  the  education  and 
treatment  of  the  colt  are  not,  in  all  instances,  the  rules 
necessary  to  be  observed  in  the  education  and  treat- 
ment of  the  horse.  Such  governing  rules,  however,  as 
being  honest  with  the  animal,  exercising  kindness,  for- 
bearance, firmness,  and  perseverance,  apply  in  both  cases. 

In  the  education  of  the  pleasure-horse  there  are  many 
points  of  value  to  which  allusion  might  be  made,  which 
the  limits  of  this  work  will  not  permit.  We  shall,  how- 
ever, touch  upon  those  of  the  most  importance  in  every- 
day use.  Bear  in  mind  that,  to  make  the  lessons  which 
we  are  about  to  give  effectual,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
give  one  or  two  lessons  each  day,  for  a  few  days,  until 
the  habit  of  obedience  is  confirmed. 


68  TRAINING   OP   HORSES. 

TO  CAUSE  THE  HOUSE  TO  FOLLOW  YOU. 

To  cause  him  to  follow  you  while  his  head  is  confined 
with  a  bridle  or  halter,  put  on  the  "  Yankee  Bridle,"  (see 
Figure  7,)  take  hold  about  two  feet  from  the  head,  give 
him  a  few  short,  quick  side  pulls  to  the  right  and  left, 
(see  Figivre  7,)  then  taking  quickly  hold  of  the  rope  far- 
ther toward  the  end,  as  you  step  back  say  decidedly, 
"  Come  here,  sir  !"  If  he  comes  forward,  caress  him ;  if 
he  does  not  come,  give  him  a  pull  with  a  sideways  ten- 
dency, and  repeat  the  attempt  to  have  him  come  forward, 
until  he  does  come  ;  then  start  off  either  to  the  right  or 
left,  with  the  rope  slackened  ;  if  he  does  not  follow  you, 
give  him  more  pulls  sideways,  and  try  him  again.  With 
an  ordinary  horse,  you  can  teach  the  lesson  in  ten  min- 
utes, so  as  to  be  followed  by  him  when  you  are  near  the 
head.  Step  partially  behind  him,  laying  the  rope  along 
his  back,  and  say,  "  Come  here,  sir !"  He  will  not  be 
likely  to  do  it,  because  he  has  only  been  taught  to  go 
forward  at  the  words.  To  teach  him  to  follow  you  in 
this  direction,  you  will  then  chirrup  to  start  him,  repeat- 
ing the  words.  If  he  comes,  caress  him  ;  if  he  does  not 
come,  or  moves  in  the  wrong  direction,  pull  upon  the 
"Bridle,"  caressing  him  as  he  obeys.  The  same  rule 
will  apply  to  any  direction  in  which  you  wish  him  to 
follow  you.  It  is  quite  necessary  to  teach  the  horse  this 
habit,  as  it  is  the  foundation  of  many  others,  and  is  one 
of  the  most  valuable  which  the  horse  can  possess. 

To  teach  him,  for  your  amusement,  to  follow  you 
when  entirely  loose,  put  on  the  near  fore-foot  the  long 


TRAINING   OP   HORSES.  69 

foot-strap,  and  place  on  liim  a  girth ;  pass  the  strap 
under  the  girth,  and,  holding  the  end  in  your  hand,  step 
away  from  him ;  then  step  toward  him,  and  if  he  at- 
tempts to  step  away  from  you,  pull  up  on  the  strap  and 
say,  "  Whoa  I"  If  he  stops,  step  up  and  caress  him  ;  re- 
peat until  he  will  allow  you  to  step  up  to  him  without 
moving  away.  Now  take  a  short  blunt  whip  in  your 
right  hand,  and  the  strap  in  your  left,  standing  by  his 
side ;  pass  your  right  arm  over  the  withers  and  gently 
touch  him  on  the  off-side  of  the  head:;  if  he  starts  to 
move  off,  pull  up  on  the  strap  and  say,  "  Whoa  !"  When 
he  turns  his  head,  caress  him,  gradually  with  the  whip 
forcing  him  to  turn  his  head  around  toward  you ;  when 
he  will  do  this  every  time  you  put  the  whip  over,  you 
may  remove  the  foot-strap,  and  practice  him  in  the  lesson 
until  he  will  come  to  you  every  time  you  lay  the  whip 
across  his  neck ;  then  put  on  the  foot-strap  again,  put 
your  whip  in  the  same  position  and  hit  him  in  the  same 
place  quite  hard,  at  the  same  time  saying,  "  Come  here, 
sir  !"  After  a  little  he  will  be  very  prompt ;  then  place  him 
in  a  corner  and  step  off  at  a  distance  of  eight  or  ten  feet 
and  say,  "  Come  here,  sir  !"  If  he  comes,  caress  him  ;  if 
he  does  not  come,  hit  him  gently  on  the  breast  with  a 
long  Avhip  ;  he  will  perhaps  struggle  to  get  away,  and  if 
he  attempts  to  get  out  of  the  corner,  pull  upon  the  strap. 
When  he  faces  you,  step  up  to  him  and  caress  him,  plac- 
ing him  back  in  the  corner,  and  repeat ;  if  he  finally 
shows  a  disposition  to  follow,  step  back  coaxingly,  and 
when  he  stops,  caress  him  ;  at  each  further  repetition  use 


70  TRAINING   OF   HOUSES. 

the  words,  "Come  here,  sir  !"  at  each  motion  of  the  whip  ; 
in  this  way  he  will  soon  learn  to  follow  you  at  the  word, 
if  you  have  a  whip  in  your  hand.  Don't  take  him  out 
of  doors  to  practice  until  he  is  quite  perfect,  and  then 
beginning  in  small  yards  and  alone. 

TO    ADD    STYLE. 

Take  a  common  three-strand  cotton  rope,  manufac- 
tured of  as  fine  material  as  you  can  procure,  about  three 
eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  very  strong,  and  about 
ten  feet  in  length.  Tie  a  knot  at  each  end — an  ordinary 
hard  knot  with  the  end  passed  through  the  tie  twice  in- 
stead of  once  is  proper — slipping  it  down  close  to  the 
end.  A  knot  tied  thus  will  not  untie  ;  a  single  tie  is  in 
danger  of  slipping  out.  About  the  middle  of  the  rope 
tie  a  common  bow-knot,  not  drawing  it  tight,  however ; 
pass  the  opposite  end  through  the  loop  of  the  bow-knot, 
barely  passing  the  knot  at  the  end  of  the  rope  through 
the  bow ;  then  pull  the  bow  out  as  you  would  to  untie 
it,  drawing  the  rope  through  the  place  occupied  by  the 
bow,  and  then  draw  the  knot  tight.  You  will  thereby 
form  a  loop  at  one  end  of  the  rope,  of  the  proper  size  to 
go  over  a  horse's  neck.  Standing  by  the  near-side  of  the 
horse,  near  the  neck,  take  the  large  loop  in  both  hands, 
pass  it  over  the  head  and  well  down  on  to  the  neck,  the 
same  as  a  collar  is  put  on.  This  loop  should  be  of  a  size 
to  fit  the  neck  closely,  when  in  that  position.  Pass  the 
end  from  front  to  back  through  between  the  rope  and 
the  neck ;  then  place  the  running  loop  thus  made  in  the 


TRAINING    OF    HORSES. 


71 


mouth,  back  of  the  bridle-teeth,  and  draw  upon  the 
rope.  This  will  cause  the  rope  to  slide  through  the 
mouth.  Now  step  in  front  of  him  with  the  rope  in  your 
right  hand  ;  give  him  a  gentle  pull  by  raising  your 
hand;  you  will  observe  that  this  is  a  powerful  and 
effectual  means  of  checking  up  the  horse.  By  a  repeti- 
tion of  this  for  a  few  times  he  will  become  accustomed 
to  raising  his  head  gracefully  at  each  gentle  pull  upon 
the  halter,  and  through  the  control  you  have  acquired 
over  his  mouth.  "When  you  pull  up  on  the  lines  to  drive 
him,  he  remembers  his  lesson,  and  will  need  no  check- 
rein  to  exhibit  style  in  the  head  and  neck. 

If  he  is  inclined  to  put  out  his  nose,  pull  down  on 
the  bridle,  caressing  him  as  he  yields  freely  to  the  pull ; 
then  put  on  the  martingales,  having  them  rather  short, 
and  drive  him  thus  for  a  number  of  weeks.  After  the 
habit  of  curving  his  neck  is  formed,  then  apply  the  rope, 
and  teach  him  to  hold  his  head  and  neck  up,  by  the  up- 
ward pull,  leaving  off  the  martingales.  You  can  as  well 
have  a  showy  horse  as  an  awkward  one. 

TO    LIE    DOWN. 

Take  the  "Short  Foot-Strap,"  {see Index;)  standing  on 
the  near-side  with  your  right  hand  throw  it  over  the  back, 
and  with  your  left  hand  bring  it  under  and  tie  it  to  the  near 
fore-foot ;  tie  a  knot  in  the  bridle-rein  on  the  back  of  the 
neck  ;  with  your  right  hand,  pulling  over  the  back,  pull 
up  the  near  fore-foot  under  him  just  back  of  the  fore- 
legs ;  with  your  left  hand  hold  firmly  upon  the  br 


T2  TRAINING   OF   HORSES. 

rein  near  the  head ;  if  he  attempts  to  jump,  pull  him 
around  toward  you  a  few  times.  He  will  soon  cease 
his  efforts  to  escape,  when  you  will  ease  up  and  caress 
him,  never  letting  loose,  however,  while  he  is  struggling 
to  get  away ;  pull  upon  the  strap  as  before,  and  with 
your  left  hand  pull  upon  the  bridle  rein  near  the  knot  on 
the  neck  so  as  to  turn  his  head  from  you ;  then  gently 
but  firmly  bear  down  on  his  back  with  your  right  hand 
until  he  comes  down  upon  his  knees  ;  shift  the  left  hand 
so  as  to  pull  his  head  toward  you,  and  crowding  against 
him,  hold  him  firmly  until  he  lies  down,  causing  him  to 
lie  down  from  you ;  pull  his  head  well  up  toward  you 
and  step  over  him ;  pass  the  end  of  the  foot-strap 
which  is  in  your  right  hand  through  the  ring  of  the  bri- 
dle-bit, and  pull  the  head  up  and  over,  and  hold  it ;  he 
can  not  get  up  while  in  this  position.  Hold  him  thus  a 
short  time,  and  pulling  the  strap  out  of  the  bridle-bit 
and  stepping  away,  say,  "  Get  up  !"  and  crack  a  whip  or 
chirrup.  This  process  does  not  injure  the  knees,  and 
after  a  few  times  repeated  he  will  lie  down  readily ; 
then  pull  up  the  foot  with  the  strap  as  before,  and  whip 
him  across  the  knees  until  he  kneels  and  lies  down. 
Practice  with  this  will  accustom  him  to  lie  down  at  the 
motion  of  the  whip. 

TO  SIT  UP. 

When  the  horse  is  lying  down,  as  in  the  previous  il- 
lustration, take  the  "  Long  Foot-Strap,"  {see  Indsx^)  and 
passing  the  centre  of  it  over  his  neck,  bring  the  ends 


TRAINING   OF   HOESES.  ?3 

between  his  fore-legs,  and  pulling  hini  over  flat  on  his 
side,  fetch  his  hind-legs  well  up  under  him  and  tie  them 
with  the  ends  of  the  foot-strap ;  then  saying,  "  Sit  up  !" 
as  he  attempts  to  rise,  use  all  your  strength  in  pushing 
back  on  the  bridle.  lie  will  come  into  a  sitting  pos- 
ture. This  repeated  sufficiently  often  will  teach  him  to 
sit  up  in  the  same  manner,  without  the  use  of  the  strap, 
at  the  word  of  command. 

TO    SAY    NO. 

Stand  by  your  horse  near  the  shoulder,  holding  a  pin 
in  your  hand,  with  which  prick  him  lightly  on  the  with- 
ers, and  to  drive  away  which  he  will  shake  his  head. 
Then  caress  him,  and  repeat  until  he  will  shake  his  head 
at  the  motion  of  your  hand  toward  his  withers. 
TO    MAKE    A    BOW    AND    KISS    YOU. 

Stand  as  before,  and  with  a  pin  in  your  fingers,  prick 
him  lightly  in  the  breast  as  if  a  fly  was  biting  him.  He 
will  bring  down  his  head  to  relieve  himself  of  the  sup- 
posed bite.  You  will  caress  him  and  repeat.  If  he 
looks  or  acts  cross,  scold  him.  He  will  soon  nod  each 
time  you  put  your  hand  toward  his  breast.  Now  place 
an  apple,  or  some  dainty  for  the  horse,  upon  your  cheek, 
and  holding  it  toward  him,  say,  "  Kiss  me !"  He  will 
take  the  apple  from  your  face.  Repeated,  he  will  put 
forth  his  mouth  when  you  turn  your  cheek  toward  him 
and  say,  "  Kiss  me  I1'  You  may,  when  the  lessons  are 
perfect,  say  to  the  horse,  "  Will  you  kiss  me  ?"  and 
sause  him  to  bow ;  then  turning  your  cheek  and  saying, 
t4Kiss  me  !"  he  will  kiss  vou. 


HABITS    OF   THE   HOESE. 


Having  already  made  sufficient  allusions  to  explain 
our  theory  and  practice,  with  the  reasons  therefor,  we 
proceed  to  our  lessons  upon  the  habits  of  the  horse. 
In  these  there  is  frequent  use  for  the  "  Yankee  Bridle," 
and  as  it  would  occupy  too  much  space  at  each  allusion 
thereto  to  give  the  manner  of  its  use,  we  refer  the  read- 
er to  the  explanations  under  its  proper  heading.  [See 
Index.) 

We  here  take  occasion  to  allude  to  a  fact  in  connec- 
tion with  the  use  of  this  "  Bridle,"  which  if  properly 
understood  and  appreciated  will  be  valuable  to  the 
operator.  The  seat  of  the  main  means  for  exercising  a 
controlling  influence  over  the  horse  is  the  mouth.  Get 
a  governable  mouth,  and  your  mastery  over  the  animal 
is  more  than  half  accomplished.  All  horses  with  bad 
habits  have  bad  mouths,  and  you  must  give  a  practical 
force  to  the  theory  that  it  is  the  mouth  to  which  you 
are  to  apply  your  governing  forces,  before  you  have 
succeeded  in  gaining  a  right  to  ask  the  horse  to  obey 
your  will.  Having  governed,  we  may  then  proceed  to 
teach,  but  not  till  then.     Remember  that  for  every  habit 


*76  TRAINING    OF   HORSES. 

there  must  be  a  separate  application,  and  while  this 
"  Bridle"  (which  is  so  effective  in  controlling  the 
mouth)  is  used  in  only  one  way,  there  are  as  many 
different  meanings  to  be  attached  to  its  use  as  there  are 
different  habits  to  be  cured,  or  lessons  to  be  taught. 
Its  use,  therefore,  prepares  the  mouth  and  head  for  the 
common  bridle  to  carry  into  effect  what  is  so  well  be- 
gun, and  to  give  practice  until  the  bad  habit  is 
broken  up  or  the  desired  new  one  rendered  permanent. 
The  "Bridle,"  to  accomplish  so  much  good  must  of 
course  be  a  powerful  instrument,  and  caution  must  be 
observed  not  to  use  it  to  such  an  excess  as  to  excite  the 
animal  to  anger.  Another  implement  which  we  find 
very  serviceable  in  connection  with  breaking  up  the  bad 
habits  of  the  horse  is  . 

THE    OVEEDRAW    CHECK. 

Many  horses  are  addicted  to  the  habit  of  carrying  a  low 
head,  tossing  the  head  up  and  down,  curving  the  neck  so 
as  to  interfere  with  breathing  while  traveling  rapidly, 
etc.,  for  remedying  which  there  are  many  resorts ;  but  the 
readiest  and  most  handy  one  to  accomplish  the  most  gen- 
eral results,  is  what  we  denominate  the  "  Overdraw 
Chech.''''  As  it  is  somewhat  difficult  to  describe  the  manu- 
facture of  this  check,  we  will  commence  by  suggesting 
that  you  put  a  common  check-bit  in  the  horse's  mouth,  tie 
a  string  to  the  near-side  ring,  pass  it  up  over  the  face  be- 
tween the  ears,  and  let  it  hang  down  on  the  off-side  of 
the  neck  to  the  place  where  the  gag-runner  should  comej 


TRAINING    OP    HOUSES.  11 

tie  a  similar  string  to  the  ring  on  the  off-side  of  the  bit, 
and  bring  it  in  the  same  manner  over  the  head  and 
down  the  near-side.  You  will  thereby  get  the  proper 
length,  and  by  attaching  the  strings  together  at  the 
point  where  they  cross  the  face,  you  will  have  the  meas- 
ure to  the  place  where  the  straps  of  the  check  are  to 
join  from  the  bit.  Take  the  measure  from  the  horse 
which  is  to  wear  it.  Take  a  strap  about  an  inch  wide, 
the  length  of  the  strings,  allowing  for  a  buckle  and 
loop  ;  slit  the  leather  up  as  far  as  the  point  where 
the  strings  crossed,  leave  a  half  an  inch,  then  slit  the 
leather  the  rest  of  its  length.  Attach  a  buckle  to  each 
of  the  shorter  ends,  and  form  a  gag-runner  on  each  of 
the  longer  ends,  rounding  the  leathers.  Buckle  your 
shorter  ends  to  your  check-bit.  Take  your  head-stall, 
and  an  inch  each  way  from  the  centre  on  the  top  of  the 
head  place  a  loop  ;  put  the  bit  in  the  mouth,  and  pass  the 
longer  ends  of  the  "Overdraw  Check;"  through  the 
loops  on  top  of  the  head-stall ;  then  attach  an  ordi- 
nary check-rein,  with  buckles  on  both  sides,  to  the 
check-bit,  and  pass  it  through  the  gag-runners  on  the 
end  of  the  "  Overdraw  Check,"  (instead  of  those  usual- 
ly belonging  to  a  head-stall ;)  just  before  the  point  where 
the  check-reins  join  the  check-hook  fasten  the  check- 
rein  together  with  a  rivet,  so  that,  when  hooked  on,  it 
can  not  slip  back  and  forth  through  the  check-hook. 
Care  should  be  exercised  to  have  the  check-rein  properly 
tightened.  This  will  have  a  tendency  to  throw  the 
nose  out,  giving  the  horse  breath  and  a  graceful  carriage 


Y8  TRAINING    OF    HORSES. 

The  driving-lines  must  be  attached  to  an  easy  bit,  addi- 
tional to  the  check-bit.     (See  Figure  9.) 

KICKERS    IN    SINGLE    HARNESS. 

Take  the  "  Yankee  Bridle,"  and  give  him  a  few  strong, 
lively  pulls  to  fix  his  attention  upon  your  movements. 
(See  Figure  1.)  Handle  him  sufficiently  in  this  manner 
to  cause  him  to  follow  you,  back,  stop,  stand,  etc.,  as 
per  previous  instructions  ;  in  other  words,  exercise  him 
until  you  gain  perfect  submission,  and  get  a  good  con- 
trol of  the  mouth.  Having  this  accomplished,  you 
may  harness  him,  and  place  upon  him  one  of  "  Mock. 
welVs  Safety  Lines"  which  is  made  as  follows  :  Take  a 
common  blind  bridle,  with  a  double  ring-bit,  (see  Figure 
6)  instead  of  the  ordinary  bit.  Attach  to  the  loose 
rings  the  "  Overdraw  Check,"  (see  Figure  9,)  the  round 
portion  of  the  check-rein  to  pass  through  the  gag-run- 
ners of  the  "  Overdraw,"  the  flat  portion  which  usually 
belongs  in  the  check-hook  to  be  only  about  a  foot  in 
length,  so  that  the  check-rein  will  lie  upon  the  curve  of 
the  neck ;  the  loop  Avhich  is  made  on  the  check-rein  of 
the  "  Overdraw  "  by  riveting  the  flat  strap  together  at 
the  centre,  to  be  one  inch  from  the  centre  to  the  off-side. 
To  this  loop  attach  a  common  driving-line  ;  pass  it 
through  the  off  terret,  in  connection  with  the  rein,  the 
end  being  held  in  your  hand.  You  will  readily 
see  by  testing  this,  that  if  the  horse  cringes, 
and  attempts  to  kick,  or  to  run  away,  you  can,  by  pull- 
ing upon  the  extra  line,  throw  his  head  in  the  air  in  such 


*■&• 


TRAINING   OF   HORSES.  fcl 

a  manner  as  to  positively  prevent  him  raising  his  heels. 
(See  Figure  10.)  This  is  equally  applicable  in  double  har- 
ness. Another  plan  is  to  take  a  half-inch  rope,  about 
twenty-four  feet  in  length ;  place  the  centre  of  the  rope 
across  the  top  of  the  horse's  head  just  back  of  the  ears, 
fastening  it  to  the  head-stall ;  pass  the  ends  through  the 
bridle-bit  from  the  outside,  and  pass  them  up  through  the 
gag-runner  ;  (if  the  gag-runners  are  not  quite  strong,  sup- 
ply their  place  by  fastening  a  strap  about  one  foot  long, 
with  a  ring  in  each  end,  to  the  head-stall,  over  the  head ;) 
then  pass  them  through  the  terrets  with  the  reins,  and 
thence  through  a  ring  fastened  on  the  back-strap  just  back 
of  the  hips,  fastened  strongly  and  so  that  it  will  not  slip 
forward,  seeing  that  the  crouper  and  back-strap  are 
strong  ;  now  hitch  him  to  a  dray  or  job  wagon,  and 
tie  the  ends  of  the  rope  firmly  to  the  thills,  pulling  it 
snug  enough  to  check  the  head  up  as  high  as  he  can 
conveniently  carry  it  and  travel.  (See  Figure  11.) 
Take  up  the  lines  and  drive  him  carefully  the  first  few 
times.  The  habit  being  now  probably  broken  up,  you 
must  practice  him  until  he  is  safe,  and  he  will  then  be 
ready  to  hitch  up  to  a  light  carriage. 

KICKERS    IN    DOUBLE    HARNESS. 

The  best  method  for  double  kickers  is  to  use  the  "  safe- 
ty-line" (see  Figure  10)  as  described  with  "  single  kick- 
ers." Another  plan  is  to  use  the  same  means  to  gain 
submission  which  are  described  in  alluding  to  kickers  in 
single  harness.     Then  put  on  a  harness,  and  add  to  your 


TRAINING    OF   HORSES.  83 

common  head-stall  the  "  Overdraw  Cheek."  (See  Figure  9.) 
Instead  of  passing  the  driving-lines  through  the  martin- 
gales, pass  them  through  the  "  Overdraw"  gag-runners, 
and  thence  through  the  tercets.  Have  a  strap  attached 
to  the  bit,  and  have  a  person  go  ahead  of  the  horse 
about  ten  feet,  with  the  strap  loose,  until  the  horse  at- 
tempts to  turn,  when  he  will  pull  up  on  him.  You  take 
the  lines  which  pass  through  the  "  Overdraw"  gag-run- 
ners, and,  standing  behind  the  horse,  start  him  up;  then 
jerk  upon  the  lines,  saying,  "  Whoa !"  and  stop  him ; 
then,  saying  "  Get  up  !"  you  will  start  him  again,  and 
repeat  the  jerk  and  the  stopping.  (See  Figure  12.)  This 
is  to  be  done  with  considerable  energy  and  activity, 
urging  him  with  a  whip  if  he  refuses  to  go,  and  repeating 
until  the  horse  will  start  and  stop  at  the  word  of  com- 
mand without  the  use  of  the  lines.  Two  or  three  lessons 
will  probably  be  sufficient,  when  you  will  place  him  along- 
side his  mate  in  double  harness.  Take  a  small  rope, 
about  twenty-five  or  thirty  feet  in  length ;  fasten  the  cen- 
tre of  the  rope  to  the  head-stall,  on  top  of  the  head,  be- 
tween the  "  Overdraw  Check,"  which  should  be  already 
on  ;  pass  the  ends  down  through  the  rings  of  the  "  Over- 
draw" bit,  back  up  through  the  gag-runners  of  the  "  Over- 
draw;" pass  them  through  the  terrets,  and  then  through 
a  large  stout  ring  which  is  fastened  to  a  strap  that  should 
go  under  the  tail  in  addition  and  similar  to  the  crouper, 
the  ring  to  be  tied  down  to  the  back-strap ;  pass 
the  ends  down  and  tie  them  to  the  ends  of  his  singlo 
whiffletree.     In  this  position   he   may  be   driven   and 


/ 


TRAINING  OF  HORSES.  85 

worked  with  perfect  safety,  and  after  a  few  attempts  at 
kicking  he  will  so  far  abandon  it  as  to  be  under  the  con- 
trol of  the  common  driving-lines.  Be  careful  and  not 
tease  or  annoy  a  kicking  horse.  Gentleness  and  quiet 
treatment,  accompanied  with  a  sure  control,  will  always 
effect  a  cure. 

Another  plan,  which  we  have  formerly  advised,  and 
which  has  proved  quite  successful,  is  to  put  on  a  strong 
strap  halter,  with  a  pulley  or  ring  in  the  end  of  the 
halter-stale ;  pass  it  over  a  girth  and  under  the  body  ; 
pass  your  hands  quietly  upon  the  hips  and  down  the 
hind-legs,  and  buckle  a  strap  with  a  ring  on  around  each ; 
tie  a  rope  or  strap  to  the  rings,  passing  it  through  the 
pulley  or  ring  at  the  end  of  the  halter-stale.  Then  let  up 
on  the  bridle  and  start  him  along.  He  will  probably  kick 
and  flounce  considerably,  when  you  must  hold  him  firm- 
ly. As  soon  as  he  becomes  quiet,  caress  him,  and  speak 
to  him  gently.  Lead  him  along,  and  you  will  find,  after 
a  few  attempts,  that  he  will  become  reconciled  to  the 
gearing,  when  you  may  take  it  off.  Keep  cool  yourself, 
and  show  determination  by  your  acts ;  for  if  you  hesi- 
tate or  show  doubt,  the  horse  will  be  sure  to  know  it, 
and  your  labor  will  be  materially  increased.  Repeat 
the  next  day,  and  you  will  find  him  very  much  improved. 
During  this  process,  as  well  as  all  other  efforts  to  break 
up  bad  habits,  where  the  horse  is  to  be  severely  exer- 
cised, keep  him  in  good  feed,  and  give  him  the  best  of 
care.  If  you  break  a  horse  of  habits  while  he  is  in  Ioav 
feed   and   has  but  little   ambition,  they  may  develop 


86  TRAINING   OF   HORSES. 

themselves  afterward  when  he  is  in  high  feed  and  fine 
spirits. 

There  are  other  methods  of  accomplishing  the  same 
ends  which  we  have  used,  but  those  we  mention  we  con- 
sider the  best.  Among  those  we  have  discarded  is  one 
of  putting  a  strap  around  the  neck,  and  attaching  the 
strap  from  the  hind-legs  to  that,  instead  of  a  halter.  We 
are  informed  that  some  person  is  lately  pretending  to 
have  a  patent  upon  this  plan  ;  but  we  used  it  years  agO| 
until  we  had  learned  better  modes. 

KICKERS    "WHILE    HARNESSING. 

Put  on  "  Yankee  Bridle,"  (see  Figure  7,)  and  give  him 
a  few  sharp  pulls,  and,  standing  by  his  shoulder,  draw  it 
up  very  tight,  tying  it  with  a  half-hitch.  (See  Figure  13.) 
Under  all  circumstances  keep  hold  of  the  end  of  the 
"  Bridle"  when  it  is  thus  tied,  to  be  enabled  at  any  mo- 
ment to  pull  out  the  tie  if  occasion  requires.  In  this 
position  you  need  not  fear  his  kicking.  Put  on  the  har- 
ness quietly,  being  particular  in  handling  that  portion 
of  the  harness  in  the  rear,  very  gently.  Few  people 
understand  why  a  horse  kicks  while  being  harnessed. 
The  reason  is  simply  this  :  he  first  kicked  from  being 
hurt  by  the  harness  being  thrown  too  heavily  upon  him, 
or  from  some  other  injury  or  careless  movement.  Upon 
kicking  he  has  probably  been  struck  with  the  pitchfork 
or  some  other  handy  weapon.  The  horse,  as  far  as  he 
has  any  ideas  upon  the  subject,  gets  the  idea  that  you 
strike  him  because  he  does  not  kick  hard  enough,  and 
he  tries  to  satisfy  you  by  kicking  with  all  his  might. 


88  TRAINING   OF  HORSES. 

With  a  motion  of  our  whip  Ave  can  make  our  horse  Tiger 
kick  without  fail,  because  we  have  taught  him  this.     It 
is  teaching  the  same  thing  to  your  horse  when  you  strike 
him,  and  he  soon  learns  his  lesson  so  well  that  he  will 
kick  at  the  motion  of  taking  up  the  harness.     He  has 
learned  to  associate  the  harness  with  injury  to  himself, 
and  he  supposes  kicking  is  what  you  want ;  consequent- 
ly, the  harder  you  strike  the  harder  he  will  kick.     To 
teach  him  a  different  lesson  you  must  place  him  in  a 
position  where  he  can  not  kick,  and  proceed  to  handle 
him  gently.     Now  ease  up  on  the  rope  and  caress  him. 
If  he  is  so  bad  that  the  feeling  of  the  harness  then  in- 
duces him  to  kick,  before  he  can  do  so,  if  possible,  pull 
up  sharply  upon  the  "Bridle."     A  few  quick  pulls  will 
divert  his  attention  to  his  mouth,  and  he  will  begin  to 
find  that  nothing  hurts  him  in  the  rear,  and  he  will  stop 
trying  to  kick.     Loosen  upon  the  rope  and  lead  him 
around  ;  perhaps  half  an  hour  may  be  necessary  before 
he  becomes  perfectly  reconciled ;  then  remove  the  har- 
ness.    Put  on  the  "  Bridle"  every  time  you  harness  or 
unharness  him,  for  the  first  few  days.    You  will  perceive 
a  manifest  improvement  by  this  time,  and  you  may  now 
give  practice  to  the  lesson,  by  putting  on  the  head-stall 
first  when  harnessing,  hooking  the  check-rein  into  the 
check-hook  before  putting  on  the  harness ;  then,  if  he 
shows  signs  of  kicking,  you  will  gently  pull  on  the  check, 
which,  reminding  him  of  the  "Yankee  Bridle,"  will  cause 
him  to  hold  up  his  head  and  forget  his  other  troubles  ; 
as  you  gently  put  the  harness  on  the  back  and  proceed 


TRAINING    OF    HORSES.  89 

to  buckle  the  crouper,  you  have  the  same  control  by- 
means  of  the  back-strap.  Keep  this  up  until  you  are 
satisfied  of  there  being  no  further  need  of  this  precau- 
tion, being  watchful  in  putting  him  into  the  thills,  etc., 
that  he  is  not  hit  hard  or  unnecessarily  excited.  Have 
him  very  carefully  groomed  and  handled.  A  horse  that 
is  not  a  very  bad  kicker  will  probably  be  broke  with 
much  less  trouble  than  we  have  alluded  to — the  lesson 
we  give  in  this,  as  well  all  other  cases,  being  adapted  to 
the  worst  ones. 

KICKING    WHILE    GROOMING. 

A  patient  and  careful  man  is  best  calculated  to  cause 
a  change  of  this  habit.  The  horse  with  this  habit  is 
always  afflicted  with  too  much  nervousness,  augmented 
frequently  by  heedless  handling.  Put  on  the  "  Yankee 
Bridle,"  (see  Figure  7,)  and  treat  him  the  same  as  the 
"  kickers  while  harnessing,"  drawing  it  up  tight  and  ty- 
ing. (See  Figure  13.)  Then  take  a  currycomb  and  com- 
mence currying  him  upon  the  neck,  gradually  approach- 
ing the  places  where  he  is  tender,  when  you  will  very 
softly  and  gently  pass  the  currycomb  over  the  places. 
He  will  not  be  able  to  kick,  and  will  stand  tolerably  still. 
After  two  or  three  times  currying,  you  may  proceed 
without  the  "  Bridle"  being  drawn  up  tight,  but  as  you 
approach  the  tender  places  give  him  a  slight  pull,  hav- 
ing the  end  of  the  rope  held  in  your  hand  for  that  pur- 
pose, and  each  time  he  cringes  or  shows  signs  of  kicking, 
pull  up  sufficiently  to  attract  his  attention  to  the  head, 


90  TRAINING    OF   HOESES. 

and  curry  with  a  lighter  hand.  Convincing  him  that  he 
is  not  to  be  hurt  soon  allays  his  nervous  fears,  and  he 
will  yield  to  your  control.  If  the  habit  is  just  being 
formed,  apparently  pay  no  attention  to  the  horse's  move- 
ments, but  be  sure  that  your  currycomb  does  not  hurt 
him. 

KICKING    AND    STBIKING    "WHILE    SHOEING. 

The  blacksmith  should  always  use  every  precaution 
necessary  to  protect  his  life  while  shoeing  strange 
horses,  and  if  there  are  any  signs  of  viciousness,  should 
at  once  take  steps  for  his  own  protection,  proceeding  ac- 
cording to  instructions  in  the  following  lesson,  as  far  as 
his  judgment  warns  him  is  necessary.  The  rules  we 
give  are  to  apply  to  the  worst  and  most  vicious  animals. 
Take  hold  of  the  halter-stale  within  a  foot  or  two  of  the 
head  ;  with  your  left  hand  pull  his  head  toward  you  on 
the  near-side,  and,  by  a  rapid  motion  with  your  right, 
catch  firmly  hold  of  the  tail,  and  instantly  commence 
whirling  him  around,  pulling  the  head  toward  you.  (See 
Figure  4.)  "Whirl  him  three  or  four  times  around  and 
stop,  stepping  quickly  up  to  the  head ;  before  he  has  had 
time  to  get  over  his  confusion  and  dizziness,  repeat  the 
whirling  operation,  and  while  he  is  still  laboring  under 
the  effects  of  the  whirl,  strap  up  his  near  fore-leg;  put 
on  the  "  Yankee  Bridle,"  (see  Figure  7,)  and  step  out  in 
front  of  him.  There  is  no  danger  now  of  his  striking 
you.  Use  him  sharply  with  the  "  Bridle,"  pulling  ear- 
nestly and  vigorously  to  and  fro,  and  leading  him  around 


TRAINING    OF    HORSES.  91 

on  three  legs,  until  you  are  confident  that  you  have 
completely  discouraged  him.  See  that  the  cord  is  well 
down  on  the  neck,  and  draw  up  tightly  on  the  rope  and 
tie  with  a  half-hitch.  [See  Figure  13.)  Never  keep  the 
head  tied  down  in  this  manner  more  than  two  ox  three 
minutes  at  a  time.  If  you  are  not  through,  loosen  up 
and  tie  again.  Take  a  hammer  and  strike  a  few  times 
upon  the  foot  which  is  strapped  up,  at  the  same  time 
handling  it.  When  he  grows  quiet  let  down  the  foot 
and  take  up  the  off  fore-foot,  by  throwing  the  webbing 
over  the  neck,  tying  it,  and  drawing  up  ;  then  hammer 
that  foot  in  the  same  manner  until  he  allows  you  to  hold 
it  without  trying  to  get  it  away,  then  let  it  down.  This 
will  do  for  horses  which  strike  while  being  shod  for- 
ward, provided  the  "  Bridle"  is  kept  drawn  tight.  For 
kickers,  an  additional  precaution  is  required.  Take  the 
"  short  foot-strap,"  tie  it  around  the  near  hind-leg,  about 
six  inches  above  the  fetlock,  (where  the  blacksmith  usu- 
ally takes  hold  of  the  leg,)  with  a  slip-noose  knot.  Take 
a  short  hold  with  the  left  hand  upon  the  "  Bridle,"  loosen 
it,  and,  with  the  right  hand  upon  the  foot-strap,  pull  him 
around  two  or  three  times.  Have  some  other  person 
hold  him  now  by  the  head,  and  step  back  and  pull  upon 
the  foot-strap,  backward,  sideways,  etc.  In  an  experi- 
ence, during  our  travels,  with  thousands  of  vicious 
horses,  we  found  but  three  horses  which  the  above  plan 
did  not  bring  to  perfect  submission.  Those  were  brought 
to  terms  by  taking  the  "  long  foot-strap,"  tying  it 
around  the  neck  with  a  slip-noose  knot,  (placing  it  well 


92  TRAINING    OF    HOUSES. 

down  on  the  neck,)  passing  it  between  the  fore-legs, 
bringing  it  around  the  near  hind-leg  just  above  the 
hock,  and  passing  it  through  the  portion  around  the 
neck.  This  prevents  the  rope  tightening  around  the 
neck,  and  gives  you  a  means  of  holding  the  hind-leg, 
which  will  prove  perfectly  convincing  to  the  horse  that 
he  is  over-matched.  Pull  up  the  hind-leg  with  one  hand 
and  on  the  "  Yankee  Bridle"  with  the  other.  If  time  is 
important,  you  will  find  it  advisable  to  shoe  him  while 
thus  held,  which  can  be  done  with  a  little  inconvenience, 
changing  the  strap  as  you  change  legs.  Every  time 
you  do  this  without  hurting  him  goes  to  help  cure  him, 
which  can  not,  however,  be  done  in  less  than  five  or  six 
days.  These  same  rules  will  apply  to  mules,  though 
mules  are  controlled  easier. 

KICKING    ON    ATTEMPTS    TO    ENTEK    STALL. 

Use  a  stout  halter.  Take  the  "  Yankee  Bridle,"  (see 
Figure  7,)  placed  on  as  usual,  except  that  the  rope 
should,  in  this  case,  be  tied  on  the  ojf-side  ring  of  the 
bit  and  passed  through  the  ?ie«r-side  ring,  and  without 
being  thrown  over  the  neck.  Lead  him  into  as  wide  a 
stall  as  convenient,  tie  the  halter-stale  rather  long,  and 
as  you  come  out  draw  slightly  upon  the  rope  of  the 
"  Yankee  Bridle,"  bringing  the  end  out  with  you,  and 
hanging  it  in  some  handy  place.  When  you  have 
occasion  to  enter  or  go  near  the  stall,  take  hold  of  the 
end  of  the  rope,  (see  Figure  14  ;)  and  if  the  horse  kicks 
and  squeals,  pull  up  on  the  rope,  being  careful  not  to  pull 


94  TRAINING    OF    HORSES. 

too  hard.  This  will  have  the  effect  to  make  him  stop 
kicking.  In  a  short  time  he  will  have  learned  that  to 
kick  is  to  be  brought  up  by  the  rope,  and  he  will  cease 
it  altogether.  After  having  pulled  and  entered  the 
stall,  remember  and  caress  him,  impressing  upon  him 
that  he  is  not  to  be  hurt  by  your  entrance.  You  will 
thus  not  only  teach  him  better  manners,  but  win  his 
confidence.  Never  strike  or  shout  at  a  horse  while  you 
are  entering  the  stall. 

BALKING    IN    DOUBLE    HA.BNESS. 

Apply  the  "Yankee  Bridle"  {see  Figure  7)  frequently 
for  about  two  days,  using  it  vigorously.  After  the  first 
day  put  the  rope  up  over  the  top  of  his  head.  In  pull- 
ing him  to  and  fro  you  need  not  be  very  gentle ;  on  the 
contrary,  be  severe,  after  each  side-pull  pulling  him 
straight  ahead,  impressing  upon  him  that  he  must  move 
along  whenever  any  thing  presses  upon  the  head  and 
mouth.  He  must  be  kept  in  ignorance  of  his  ability  to 
resist  after  you  once  commence  breaking  him  of  the 
habit.  Start  with  him,  and  when  half  through  neglect 
him,  and  let  him  balk  again,  and  you  lose  nearly  all  the 
ground  gained.  You  must  therefore  be  sure  that  you 
can  do  what  you  try,  and  be  certain  that  you  do  accom- 
plish every  movement  which  you  undertake.  Now,  if 
the  horse  shows  signs  of  being  angry,  put  on  the  "  Yan- 
kee Bridle,"  with  the  rope,  as  in  Figure  14.  Tie  a  knot 
in  the  end  of  the  tail;  part  the  hairs  above  the  knot, 
and  pass  the  rope  of  the  "Yankee  Bridle"  through  the 


TRAINING    OF    HORSES.  95 

opening,  pulling  it  up  until  it  draws  the  head  pretty 
well  around,  and  tie  it  with  a  half-hitch.  Then  with  a 
whip  start  him  around,  {see  Figure  15,)  and  as  he  whirls 
hit  him  first  over  the  face  with  your  hand,  then  with  the 
wThip  around  the  legs,  until  he  has  whirled  about  three 
times  around,  when  catch  hold  of  the  end  of  the  rope 
and  untie  it.  Do  not  let  him  whirl  too  much  or  he  will 
become  so  dizzy  as  to  fall.  This  is  a  powerful  control- 
ling influence,  and  in  our  hands  has  frequently  been  suf- 
ficient of  itself  to  break  balky  horses.  Now  take  hold 
of  the  "  Yankee  Bridle  "  and  lead  him  along.  This  will 
suffice  for  this  lesson,  repeating  it,  however,  frequently 
each  day  for  three  or  four  days.  He  is  then  ready  to 
hitch  up  in  harness.  Place  the  balky  horse  on  the  off- 
side, (if  on  the  near-side,  of  course  reverse  the  whole 
operation.)  Take  a  soft,  stout  half-inch  rope,  about  six 
feet  in  length;  tie  a  small  loop,  just  large  enough  to 
slip  on  the  under  jaw  at  one  end  of  the  rope;  put  the 
loop  on  the  horse's  jaw,  (regardless  of  his  tongue;)  pass 
the  rope  up  the  off-side  of  the  neck,  close  to  his  ears, 
over  and  down  the  near-side,  through  the  loop  on  the 
jaw.  Tie  a  strap  from  the  hame-ring  on  one  horse  to 
the  hame-ring  on  the  other.  Take  a  stiff,  stout  pole, 
and  eighteen  inches  from  one  end  tie  it  firmly  to  the  in- 
side end  of  the  true  horse's  single-tree  ;  lay  it  across  the 
strap  running  from  hame  to  hame ;  tie  a  strap  from  the 
true  horse's  shoulder  to  the  pole,  so  that  the  pole  can 
not  get  more  than  half-way  over  to  the  balky  horse  ; 
have  the  pole  project  a  little  beyond  the  horse's  mouth, 


TRAINING    OF    HORSES.  97 

and  tie  the  rope  to  the  end  of  the  pole,  leaving  only  just 
sufficient  slack  on  the  rope  to  allow  the  horse  to  travel 
without  interference  from  it  while  in  his  place.  You 
will  see  that  .as  you  now  attempt  to  drive,  if  the  horse 
balks,  the  true  horse  will,  in  pulling  his  single-tree  for- 
ward, pull  with  the  end  of  the  pole  upon  the  rope,  and 
remind  the  balky  one  that  he  must  move ;  the  strap  from 
the  shoulder  of  the  near  horse  to  the  pole  will  prevent 
a  side  draft,  and  the  eighteen  inches  projecting  over  at 
the  rear  end  will,  as  the  true  horse  pulls  up,  slide  along 
the  double-tree,  and  keep  the  weight  of  the  pole  from 
pressing  the  single-tree  down.  A  few  times  practicing 
with  this  will  remove  all  desire  to  balk.  You  may  work 
the  team  with  this  pole  on,  never  overloading.  (See 
Figure  16.) 

Another  good  way  to  start  a  balker  is  to  tie  a  stout 
strap  to  the  inside  hind-leg  of  the  balky  horse ;  bring  it 
over  the  pole  of  the  wagon,  and  tie  it,  moderately  tight- 
ened, to  the  true  horse's  collar.  As  the  true  horse  starts 
up,  and  the  balky  horse  lags  back,  the  pull  upon  the  leg 
attracts  his  attention,  and  in  his  struggle  to  release  him- 
self he  forgets  to  balk,  and  will  move  forward. 

BALKING    IN    SINGLE    HARNESS. 

Treat  him  the  same  as  you  treat  the  kicker  in  double 
harness  up  to  the  point  where  you  get  the  horse  readv 
to  harness.  Put  on  a  single  harness  and  let  him  stand 
in  the  stall  with  it  on  an  hour  or  two,  and  then  take  it 
off,  repeating  when   convenient.     On  the  second  day, 


TRAINING   OP   HORSES.  99 

having  the  harness  on,  buckle  it  up  rather  tight ;  tie  the 
traces  into  the  breeching-rings,  drawing  them  up  pretty 
snugly.  This  will  accustom  him  to  the  pressure  of  the 
harness,  toughening  him  to  bear  it,  as  well  as  if  the 
pressure  was  caused  by  pulling  a  load.  He  should  stand 
thus  for  an  hour  or  two,  then  take  off  the  harness.  Be- 
tween the  times  of  his  wearing  the  harness  have  him 
wear  the  colt's  bitting  bridle,  (see  Figure  2,)  pretty  well 
checked  up.  Don't  be  afraid  of  bitting  the  balky  horse 
too  much,  nor  of  handling  him  too  much  with  the 
K  Yankee  Bridle,"  provided  you  do  not  get  the  mouth 
sore.  If  it  gets  sore,  wait  for  it  to  heal.  Now  put  on 
the  harness,  buckled  up  tightly,  and  the  traces  tied  in, 
with  the  "Yankee  Bridle"  bit  and  rope  attached  to  the 
blind  bridle,  instead  of  the  ordinary  bit,  the  rope  lying 
over  the  neck;  then  take  the  reins  and  drive  him  around, 
twisting  and  turning  in  all  directions.  If  he  attempts 
to  balk,  throw  the  reins  across  the  back,  and  exercise 
him  with  the  "Yankee  Bridle,"  and  renew  the  attempt 
to  drive.  Do  this  as  long  as  there  are  any  symptoms 
of  balking.  Keep  the  horse  well  fed  during  all  the 
efforts  to  break  him.  Now  hitch  him  up  to  a  light  wa- 
gon, having  the  harness  very  loose  and  loosely  checking 
him ;  handle  the  reins  very  gently,  and  drive  him  slow- 
ly and  without  exciting  him,  giving  him  every  advan- 
tage to  go.  If  he  only  shows  signs  of  balking,  pay  no 
attention  to  him ;  but  if  he  does  balk,  take  him  out  of 
the  wagon,  and  taking  hold  of  the  rope  of  the  "  Yan- 
kee Bridle,"  make  him  feel  it  severely ;  then  put  him 


100  TKAIXTN-G    OF    HORSES.      ' 

back  in  the  wagon,  and  start  him  along  gently.  If,  in 
holding  him  up,  he  attempts  to  prance,  make  him  go 
along  at  a  rapid  gait ;  (under  all  circumstances,  when 
colts  or  young  horses  attempt  to  prance  or  wish  to  rush 
ahead,  we  always  let  them  go,  and  they  soon  find  their 
level.)  If  you  wish  to  match  or  drive  him  double,  mate 
with  a  spirited  horse. 

If  your  horse  is  a  lazy,  sleepy  balker,  he  wants  treat- 
ing very  differently.  Treat  him  as  before,  up  to  the 
point  where  you  are  ready  to  harness.  Instead  of  har- 
nessing him,  we  take  him  when  he  is  in  the  stall  sleep- 
ing, lying  or  standing,  and  with  a  very  loud,  sharp 
word  or  yell,  hit  him  one  severe  blow  with  a  whip.  Do 
not  repeat  this  until  you  find  him  when  he  is  entirely 
unaware  of  your  presence,  when  you  may  do  it  again — 
doing  it  as  often  as  opportunities  of  this  sort  oiler — and 
whether  in  or  out  of  harness,  surprise  and  startle  him 
in  this  way  often.  This  apparently  unnatural  mode  of 
proceeding  may  be  easily  explained.  The  horse  of  this 
kind  is  not  excitable,  and  balks  because  his  nervous  sys- 
tem does  not  stimulate  him  to  action.  By  frightening 
him  in  the  manner  spoken  of,  you  soon  arouse  his  nerv- 
ous sensibilities,  and  whenever  he  is  spoken  to  sharply, 
and  a  blow  accompanies  the  word,  he  is  quite  certain  to 
move  with  alacrity.  The  object  in  not  repeating  the 
word  and  blow  is,  that  the  second  one  might  anger 
him,  which  is  not  what  you  want,  as  that  would  make 
him  worse,  it  being  impossible  to  cause  him  to  obey 
you  when  he  is  maddened  by  blows.     JVever  strike  a 


TRAINING    OF   HORSES.  101 

horse  wliile  he  is  balking  !  and  never  load  a  balky  horse 
heavy.  If  you  can  not  afford  to  give  him  light  loads, 
trade  him  off  to  some  one  who  can. 

EUNNING  AWAY. 

Ls"  Double  Harness. — Use  the  "Yankee  Bridle," 
(see  Figure  7,)  as  in  the  case  of  kickers,  except  that  in 
pulling  upon  it,  after  pulling  sideways,  you  pull  back- 
ward each  time.  Give  three  or  four  lessons ;  if  you 
choose,  give  them  all  in  one  day,  though  the  longer  you 
continue  it  the  better.  The  next  day  hitch  him  up 
double,  using,  instead  of  the  ordinary  bit,  the  double- 
ring  bit  belonging  to  the  "Yankee  Bridle,"  attaching 
the  "  overdraw  check "  (see  Figure  9)  to  the  loose  rings 
of  the  bit  and  the  reins  to  the  outer  rings,  with  the 
"  long  foot-strap  "  on.  When  you  start  him  out  of  the 
yard,  after  he  has  gone  a  few  steps,  pull  him  up  sud- 
denly and  say,  "  Whoa  !"  pulling  on  the  foot-strap,  (see 
Figure  8 ;)  drive  him  on  a  little  ways,  and  pull  him  up 
in  the  same  way,  saying,  "  Whoa !"  as  if  you  yourself 
were  frightened  ;  drive  him  up  to  objects  which  alarm 
him,  or  cause  noises  to  be  made  which  excite  him,  pull- 
ing him  up,  fetching  him  well  back  to  the  wagon.  You 
need  not  pull  up  the  foot-strap  every  time.  It  is  used  in 
this  case  more  for  a  protection  than  to  teach.  The 
teaching  is  to  be  mainly  done  through  the  mouth.  He 
can  not  run  if  the  strap  is  pulled  up  ;  so  you  are  safe  if 
you  are  watchful.  You  may,  however,  frequently  put 
him  on  a  run  and  stop  him  by  the  foot-strap,  pulling  him 


102  TRAINING   OF   HORSES. 

back.  The  "  Bridle "  should  be  applied  for  two  or 
three  months,  at  intervals.  You  may  take  off  the  foot* 
strap  after  you  are  satisfied  it  is  safe  to  do  so,  though 
you  had  better  not  drive  a  bad  runaway  until  by  means 
of  these  sudden  stoppings  he  has  become  well  accus- 
tomed to  being  stopped,  and  readily  yields  to  the  pull 
and  the  word.  Every  few  weeks  it  is  well  to  try  the 
foot-strap  and  use  some  means  to  cause  him  to  try  and 
run,  being  sure  always  to  pull  up  before  he  can  run,  to 
test  the  force  of  the  lesson. 

In  Single  Harness. — We  advise  that  the  runaway 
in  single  harness  should,  if  convenient,  be  hitched  up 
double,  and  apply  the  remedy  for  runners  in  double 
harness  for  two  or  three  times,  the  "  Yankee  Bridle " 
(see  Figure  7)  being  applied  before  hitching  up  at  all. 
Put  on  the  single  harness,  using  "  Rockwell's  Safety 
Line,"  (see  Figure  10.)  Drive  with  the  usual  driving- 
lines  held  in  the  left  hand,  and  the  safety-line  held  in  the 
right  hand,  and  if  the  horse  attempts  to  run,  pull  up  on 
the  "  safety-line."  This  will  effectually  stop  him,  and 
eventually  cure  him.  While  you  are  on  your  guard  you 
may  excite  him  to  run,  and  then  stop  him.  You  will  in 
this,  as  well  as  many  other  lessons,  avoid  a  bad  reputa- 
tion for  your  horse  by  practicing  after  nightfall  or  with- 
in your  own  premises. 

If  your  horse  runs  away  but  once,  immediately  apply 
the  remedy.  It  is  sinful  to  risk  the  lives  of  those  who 
are  to  ride  after  him.  A  little  time  and  labor  is  of  no 
account  in  comparison  with  the  damage  which  he  may  do, 


TRAINING   OF   IIORSES.  103 

and  a  horse  which  has  run  once,  no  matter  from  what 
cause,  is  likely  to  run  again,  and  the  remedy  should  be 
applied  to  prevent  it.  The  plan  of  tying  a  strap  to  each 
hind-leg  above  the  gambrel,  passing  it  through  the  girth, 
was  taught  by  us  for  years,  with  tolerable  success  ;  but 
we  have  abandoned  it  for  the  ones  we  describe,  as  we 
have  found  them  to  be  far  preferable.  "We  are  informed 
that  a  patent  has  been  taken  out  for  this  tying  plan ; 
but  the  patent  is  void  from  lack  of  originality,  and, 
in  view  of  the  later  improvements  by  us,  is  comparative- 
ly valueless. 

REFUSING   TO   STAND    TO,  CARRIAGE. 

Proceed  the  same  as  when  teaching  the  colt  to  stand 
to  be  harnessed,  using  the  common  bridle  if  it  will  an- 
swer ;  if  not,  applying  the  "  Yankee  Bridle,"  (see  Fig- 
ure  7.)  Lead  him  on  to  the  floor,  place  him  in  the  posi- 
tion you  wish  him,  and  say,  "  Whoa !"  The  object  of  this 
lesson  being  to  teach  him  the  application  of  the  word 
"  whoa  " — the  most  important  word  in  horsemanship — 
you  will  proceed  by  stepping  away  from  him,  and  if  he 
moves,  put  him  back  and  repeat,  "  Whoa !"  If  he  appears 
to  trifle  and  not  heed  you,  use  the  "  Bridle,"  pulling 
upon  him  to  warn  him  to  attend  to  you.  Practice  this 
until  he  will  allow  you  to  walk  away  in  any  direction 
without  moving  himself.  Take  a  whip  and  crack  it 
slightly,  and  if  at  this  he  moves,  put  him  back  as  be- 
fore, increasing  the  cracks  of  the  whip  until  you  accus- 
tom him  to  stand  while  the  whip  is  being  flourished. 


104  TRAINING    OF    HOUSES. 

If  you  are  obliged  to  drive  him  while  you  are  trying  to 
break  him,  do  not  use  the  word  "  whoa,"  as  he  is  not  yet 
accustomed  to  minding  it,  and  it  will  only  make  matters 
worse.  Shift  the  position  of  the  horse  and  repeat  the 
lesson,  ])utting  on  the  harness  and  leading  to  places 
where  he  is  accustomed  to  refuse  to  stand,  and  teach 
him  to  stand  in  those  places,  as  well  as  teaching  him  to 
obey  the  word  "  whoa,"  before  hitching  him  to  car- 
riage. Then  hitch  him  to  a  carriage  inside  a  building, 
with  the  doors  closed.  Get  in  and  out  of  the  carriage, 
rattle  the  thills  and  shake  the  carriage,  causing  him  to 
stand  by  means  heretofore  alluded  to.  If  it  appears 
that  the  habit  is  caused  by  fear  of  the  carriage  behind 
him,  take  him  out  of  the  thills  and  lead  him  around  it, 
allowing  him  to  examine  it,  and  even  eat  oats  out  of  a 
measure  set  in  the  carriage.  Now  take  him  out  of 
doors,  and  if  he  renews  his  attempts  to  start,  take  him 
out  of  the  thills  and  use  the  "  Yankee  Bridle,"  fetching 
him  back  between  the  thills,  and  say,  "  Whoa !"  You 
wall  by  this  means  soon  teach  him  that  "  whoa  "  means 
for  him  to  stop  and  stand.  Repeated,  he  will  stand 
quietly  until  you  are  ready  to  give  him  the  signal  to 
start.  For  the  sake  of  not  undoing  all  you  have  done, 
remember  the  caution  heretofore  given,  to  say  "  whoa  " 
only  when  you  mean  him  to  stop. 

PULLING   AT    HALTER. 

Place  on  him  a  common  halter  head-stall.     Put  on  a 
common  girth.     Take  a  half-inch  rope  about    twenty 


TRAINING    OF   HOUSES.  105 

feet  long.  Pass  the  centre  of  this  rope  under  the  tail 
in  place  of  a  crouper ;  twist  the  rope  over  a  couple  of 
times ;  pass  the  ends  of  the  rope  under  the  girth,  bring- 
ing an  end  up  on  each  side  of  the  neck,  and  pass  the 
ends  through  the  nose-piece  of  the  head-stall,  under  the 
cheek-pieces,  and  tie  to  a  stout  ring  or  place,  leaving 
about  three  feet  play  of  rope.  As  soon  as  the  horse 
pulls  back,  he  being  tied  by  the  tail  to  the  ring,  he  pulls 
upon  the  tail,  {see  Figure  17,)  and  the  hurt  coming  there 
instead  of  the  head,  where  he  expected  it,  he  starts  up, 
it  being  natural  to  go  from  the  hurt.  Another  plan 
may  be  found  under  the  head  of  "  Colts  Pulling  at  the 
Halter  " — in  fact,  any  plan  which  brings  the  pull  in  the 
rear,  either  upon  the  tail  or  leg,  will  do  the  business. 
Tour  own  ingenuity  will  devise  several  ways  to  accom- 
plish this  ;  but  we  consider  tying  to  the  tail  the  safest, 
as  there  is  no  danger  attached  to  it ;  and  if  he  is  in  the 
habit  of  pulling  nights,  this  arrangement  may  be  left  on 
without  fear  of  the  horse  getting  tangled  in  the  rope,  as 
there  would  be  if  tied  to  the  leg.  Common-sense  will 
show  you  that  as  there  is  no  pull  upon  the  head,  and 
consequently  no  hurt  there,  he  will  soon  cease  pulling, 
and  lose  the  habit.  To  make  the  lessons  effective,  you 
may  cause  him  to  pull  by  using  such  exciting  means  as 
are  apt  to  alarm  him. 

A  rougher  and  not  quite  as  effectual  a  way  is  to  place 
a  pulley  to  the  rafter,  as  high  in  the  peak  as  you  can 
get  it.  Take  a  hay-fork  rope,  pass  one  end  thiough  the 
pulley,  down  through  the  rack  or  feed-box,  pulling  it 


TRAINING   OF   HORSES.  107 

through  the  ring  or  place  of  tying,  about  four  feet,  and 
tie  to  the  halter.  At  the  other  end  of  the  rope,  which 
lies  on  the  floor  overhead,  tie  a  fifty-pound  weight. 
When  the  horse  pulls  back,  the  weight  lifts,  and  as  he 
tires  of  pulling  and  yields,  it  draws  him  back  into  the 
stall.     These  rules  followed  up  will  cure. 

BKIDLE-PUIiLING. 

Put  a  rope  on  the  tail  in  the  same  manner  as  in  halter- 
pulling,  (see  Figure  16,)  except  that  you  pass  the  ends 
through  the  rings  of  a  bridle,  and  tie  them  to  a  post 
where  the  horse  is  in  the  habit  of  pulling,  unhitching 
the  wagon  if  one  was  attached.  Step  away,  and  fright- 
en him  by  means  of  a  wheelbarrow  or  whatever  is  apt 
to  alarm  him,  causing  him  to  pull.  As  he  pulls,  the 
pressure  coming  upon  the  tail,  he  will  step  up  to  the 
post.  Take  hold  of  the  rope  between  the  post  and  his 
head,  and  give  it  a  few  pulls  back  and  forth.  By  this 
means  he  will  learn  to  step  forward  rather  than  to  pull 
back.  After  a  few  lessons  he  may  be  tied  with  a  com- 
mon tie-strap,  the  end,  however,  passing  through  the 
ring  of  the  bridle-bit,  and  being  tied  to  the  back-strap. 
Do  this  until  you  are  satisfied  you  have  effected  a  cure. 

BAD    TO   BRIDLE. 

With  the  "  Yankee  Bridle,"  (see  Figure  7,)  pull  his 
head  down  and  gently  handle  his  ears.  When  he  will 
allow  you  to  do  so  without  trying  to  get  his  head  up, 
loosen  up  and  allow  him  to  lift  it.    If  he  is  inclined  to 


108  TRAINING   OP   nOESES. 

strike,  put  on  the  halter  and  tie  him  to  a  post ;  then  ap- 
ply the  "Yankee  Bridle"  sharply,  keeping  at  a  dis- 
tance ;  then  approach  him,  keeping  the  halter  pulled 
tight  by  means  of  the  rope  in  your  hand,  and  pulling 
his  head  down,  handle  his  ears  gently.  When  he  al- 
lows it  quietly,  caress  him.  If  he  is  inclined  to  back 
up,  back  him  into  a  stall  and  repeat.  In  half  an  hour 
lie  will  allow  you  to  handle  his  ears  to  your  liking. 
Repeat  the  operation  whenever  he  shows  signs  of  re- 
turning to  the  habit.  The  head-stall  on  such  a  horse 
should  be  of  good  length,  and  the  ears  always  handled 
carefully.  If  you  have  not  time  to  break  him,  in  put- 
ting on  the  bridle  pass  your  right  hand  under  the  neck, 
take  hold  of  the  nose  from  the  opposite  side  ;  with  your 
left  hand  pass  the  bits  in  the  mouth;  take  your  hand 
from  the  nose  and  with  it  carefully  put  on  the  head-stall, 
while  your  left  hand  is  in  the  mouth  working  at  the  bit, 
shaking  and  fumbling  it  to  keep  his  attention  until  the 
head-stall  is  properly  placed. 

If  bad  to  put  the  bits  in  the  mouth,  pass  your  right 
hand  around  under  the  neck  and  take  hold  of  the  nose ; 
with  the  left  hand  press  the  lips  against  the  bridle-teeth 
before  the  bits  touch  the  teeth.  This  will  cause  him  to 
open  his  mouth.  To  break  up  the  habit,  use  the 
"Yankee  Bridle"  while  bitting,  passing  the  bits  in  and 
out,  hitting  the  teeth  each  time.     This  will  cure  him. 

BAD    TO    BACK. 

Use  the  "  Yankee  Bridle,"  (see  Figure  7,)  and  then 
tie  him  to  a  ring  in  a  wall  or  building  with  a  long 


TRAINING    OF   II0RSES.  109 

halter-stale.  Lead  him  past  the  ring  as  far  as  the  length 
of  the  halter  will  allow,  and  from  the  opposite  side  from 
the  halter  pull  back  upon  the  "Yankee  Bridle,"  (see 
Figure  18,)  not  using  at  this  time  any  words.  Continue 
this  until  he  backs  readily  at  the  pull,  then  begin  using 
the  word  " back"  and  repeat  until  he  understands  the 
meaning  of  the  word,  and  will  back  upon  being  told  to. 
Do  this  next  in  harness,  and,  if  necessary,  after  he  is 
hitched  to  wagon.  There  is  no  difficulty  in  soon  fixing 
the  lesson  upon  his  attention  so  that  he  will  never  for- 
get it. 

A  plan  which  we  once  used  was  to  use  a  rope  in 
somewhat  the  same  mauner  as  the  "Yankee  Bridle," 
except  that  instead  of  the  double-ring  bit  we  had  a  small 
loop  on  the  end  of  the  rope,  which  slipped  on  the  under 
jaw.  This  cord  was  used  by  us  for  a  while  as  we  now 
use  the  "  Yankee  Bridle ;"  but  we  found  it  to  injure  the 
mouth,  and  in  fact  we  killed  one  horse  in  Salem,  Mass., 
by  its  use,  and  have  since  discarded  it,  finding  by  ex- 
perience that  the  bridle  of  our  invention  is  perfectly 
harmless  and  more  effectual.  With  the  cord  alluded  to 
we  would  pull  backward  upon  the  horse,  at  the  same 
time  lifting  up  his  foot  with  the  "  foot-strap." 

The  two  worst  horses  we  have  ever  met  with  in  our 
travels  were  broken  to  back  by  these  means.  The  first 
one  was  at  Brighton,  near  Boston,  Mass.,  in  the  spring 
of  1863.  This  horse  was  a  large,  stout  animal,  which 
for  nine  years  had  not  been  known  to  back,  and  all 
efforts  to  teach  him  had  failed.     If  put  into  a  stall  too 


/;;;::,. 


TRAINING   OP   HORSES.  Ill 

narrow  for  hiin  to  turn  round  in,  they  were  compelled 
to  hitch  another  horse  to  him  and  draw  him  out.  "We 
broke  this  horse  in  twenty-five  minutes,  so  that  he 
would  readily  back  at  the  word,  and  he  never  has  for- 
gotten it.  We  broke  him  by  means  of  the  cord  in  the 
mouth,  and  the  "  foot-strap,"  but  not  without  blistering 
his  mouth  badly,  and  marking  it  for  life. 

The  other  horse  alluded  to  was  broken  at  Cleveland, 
Ohio,  in  February,  I860.  In  this  case  we  used  the 
"  Yankee  Bridle,"  and  a  halter  attached  to  a  ring  in  a 
wall,  (one  of  the  best  places  for  the  lesson  to  be  given.) 
This  was  done  before  one  of  our  private  classes  in  that 
city,  and  the  animal  was  so  notoriously  bad  that  not  one 
of  the  two  hundred  spectators  present  had  faith  that  he 
could  be  made  to  back ;  but  he  did  back,  and  without 
being  in  any  way  injured,  within  fifteen  minutes  from 
the  time  he  was  brought  before  the  class,  and  the  lesson 
was  so  effectual  as  to  operate  permanently  upon  the 
animal. 

BAD   BITERS. 

If  he  is  a  stallion  with  a  confirmed  habit  of  biting 
and  striking,  we  should  not  think  it  worth  our  while  to 
attempt  to  cure  him,  but  should  castrate  him  at  once. 
You  are  always  in  risk  of  your  life  or  limb  while  you 
have  such  an  animal  about.  If  a  mare  or  gelding,  put 
on  the  "  Yankee  Bridle,"  (see  Index,)  and  watch  him 
closely,  in  a  sly  way,  not  letting  hiin  know  you  are 
watching  him ;  and  when  he  attempts  to  bite,  give  him 


112  TEAIK1NG   OF   HORSES. 

a  few  severe  pulls  upon  the  "  Bridle."  Do  this  in  such 
places  as  he  is  most  likely  to  bite,  and  we  will  warrant 
that  a  few  efforts  will  teach  your  animal  that  his  jaws 
were  not  made  to  bite  his  keeper.  To  prevent  a  stallion 
from  biting  his  mate  when  hitched  up  double,  attach  an 
independent  line  to  the  outside  ring  of  his  bit,  letting  it 
hang  loosely,  the  end  being  held  by  the  driver.  As  he 
attempts  to  bite,  pull  up  sharply,  and  hit  him  severely 
with  the  whip. 

PUTTING  TONGUE  OUT  OF  MOUTH. 

To  prevent  this,  take  a  thick  piece  of  patent  harness 
leather,  about  four  inches  long  and  two  inches  wide. 
Cut  off  the  ends  rounding;  near  the  edge  on  each  side 
punch  two  holes,  through  which  put  a  leather  string,  and 
tie  it  on  top  of  a  joint-bit.  When  you  put  in  the  bit 
place  this  on  top  of  the  tongue ;  take  the  side-pieces  of 
the  head-stall  up  pretty  well.  This  will  prevent  him 
from  running  his  tongue  out  over  the  bit.  If  he  runs  it 
out  under  the  bit,  use  a  straight  bit,  bore  two  holes 
through  the  bit  from  the  under  side,  about  an  inch  and 
three  fourths  apart.  To  these  attach  a  piece  of  large 
wire,  bringing  it  under  in  the  shape  of  the  bowl  of  a 
spoon.  When  you  put  on  the  bit,  pull  the  tongue 
through  between  this  wire  and  the  bit,  seeing  that  the 
space  is  large  enough  for  it  to  sit  easy.  These  plans 
will  soon  break  up  this  bad-looking  habit. 


TRAINING   OF   HORSES.  118 


HARD    PULLERS. 


Try  giving  a  horse  which  pulls  upon  the  bit  all  the 
road  he  wants  and  let  him  go  ;  if  he  goes  too  fast,  jerk 
up  on  one  line,  and  then  the  other,  (having  a  heavy  load 
behind  him ;)  slacken  up  and  let  him  go  again.  If  this 
does  not  answer,  drive  him  with  the  "  Yankee  Bridle," 
(see  Index,)  without  the  rope,  attaching  the  lines  to  its 
bit,  without  martingales.  We  have  known  several  in- 
stances where  stage-horses,  livery-horses,  plow-horses, 
etc.,  have  been  temporarily  stopped  from  pulling  by 
tying  a  piece  of  waxed-end  or  stout  small  twine  around 
the  nose,  just  above  the  bit. 

WHEELING    AROUND    IN    HARNESS. 

Put  a  horse  with  this  habit  in  the  "  Safety  Shafts," 
heretofore  described,  (see  Figure  19;)  wind  the  front 
iron  with  a  hay  or  straw  rope ;  tie  a  strap  into  one  sta- 
ple, lift  up  the  shafts,  and  throwing  the  strap  over  the 
neck,  tie  it  to  the  other  staple,  bringing  the  shafts  up 
high  enough  to  have  the  front  iron  come  where  a  breast 
collar  should;  fasten  your  stout  breeching-straps  well 
forward  on  the  side  poles.  IsTow  put  on  "Yankee  Bri- 
dle," (see  Index,)  and  give  him  a  few  pulls;  then  have 
some  object  which  causes  alarm,  such  as  an  umbrella, 
hat,  etc.,  brought  up  in  front  of  him.  Hold  well  on  to 
the  "Bridle,"  and  let  him  examine  the  article.  The 
shafts  will  keep  him  from  backing  or  wheeling,  and  the 
"  Bridle "  must  keep  him  from  going  ahead.  Then 
drive  him  up  to  these  objects  by  the  reins,  teaching 


TRAINING   OF   IIOESES.  115 

him  not  to  fear  them,  and  that  going  ahead  is  the  only- 
direction  for  him.  These  shafts  will  be  found  useful  in 
many  other  particulars  which  will  readily  suggest  them- 
selves. 

There  are,  of  course,  many  other  habits  of  the  horse ; 
but  a  sensible  application  of  the  rules  we  have  laid 
down  will  find  a  remedy  for  most  if  not  all  of  them. 


GENEEAL    EEMAEKS. 


HOW    TO    THROW    A    HORSE. 

TnE  easiest  and  most  effectual  method  of  throwing 
down  a  horse,  is  to  strap  up  the  near-side  fore-foot ;  put 
on  a  surcingle,  with  a  ring  fastened  to  the  top  of  the 
surcingle ;  tie  a  half-inch  rope  around  his  neck  in  the 
same  manner  you  would  to  hitch  him  by  the  neck; 
place  it  up  near  the  throat-latch,  with  the  knot  on  the 
near-side  of  the  face ;  pass  the  rope  through  the  mouth, 
and  bring  it  along  his  neck  on  the  off-side,  and  pass  it 
through  the  ring  on  the  back;  standing  back  on  the 
near-side,  about  six  or  eight  feet  from  the  horse,  oppo- 
site his  near-side  hind-leg,  drawing  the  rope  sufficiently 
tight  to  keep  it  in  the  mouth.  Pull  carefully  until  he 
yields  his  head  a  little  to  the  off-side  ;  then  give  a  sharp, 
strong  pull,  and  keeping  your  hold,  pull  strongly  until 


116  TRAINING    OF    HORSES. 

he  is  down,  (see  Figure  20,)  which  will  occupy  from  one 
to  five  seconds.  As  he  goes  down,  lying  upon  the  near- 
side, you  keep  the  rope  tightened,  and  he  can  not  get 
np.  By  repeating  this,  you  will  soon  make  him  quite  a 
trick-horse,  as  he  will  learn  to  lie  down  by  simply  pull- 
ing upon  the  off  bridle-rein.  Throwing  is  often  neces- 
sary in  surgical  operations,  and  as  the  horse  may  be 
thrown  on  either  side,  and  with  perfect  safety,  by  this 
plan,  we  consider  it  preferable  to  the  former  way  of 
throwing  him  by  main  strength. 

Another  very  good  plan,  and  in  some  respects  more 
convenient,  especially  where  it  is  desirable  to  tie  the 
animal  when  down,  is  to  take  about  a  four-inch  ring. 
Sew  into  it  two  straps,  one  about  three  feet  in  length  and 
two  and  a  half  inches  wide,  with  a  double-tongued 
buckle  sewed  on  the  other  end;  and  the  other  strap 
about  one  foot  long  and  the  same  width,  with  holes 
punched  to  fit  the  buckle ;  take  a  rope  about  eighteen 
feet  in  length,  and  loop  the  centre  on  the  ring.  Strap 
up  the  near-leg  of  the  horse  you  are  to  operate  upon, 
and  place  on  him  a  strong  bridle,  with  the  check-pieces 
tolerably  short.  Buckle  the  wide  strap  around  the 
neck,  with  the  ring  upon  the  breast ;  pass  the  rope  be- 
tween his  fore-legs,  and  thence  between  his  hind-legs, 
fetching  the  ends  of  the  rope  again  forward  by  bring- 
ing them  on  the  outside  of  each  leg  above  the  gambrel ; 
and  passing  them  on  the  outside  of  the  fore-legs,  put 
them  through  the  ring  from  the  inside.  Have  a  man 
hold  of  each  rope,  prepared  to  pull  as  you  say,  "  Ready !' 


118  TRAINING   OF   HORSES. 

which  will  be  as  soon  as  you  slip  the  cord  below  the 
gambrel  on  both  legs,  which  you  may  then  proceed  to 
do,  (see  Figure  21,)  you  pulling  upon  the  off-side  line 
attached  to  the  bridle.  As  he  falls,  which  he  will  do 
upon  the  near-side,  the  person  holding  the  near-side  rope 
will  keep  it  tight.  As  you  stand  by  the  shoulder,  you 
reach  over  and  take  the  off-side  rope  in  your  hands,  the 
person  releasing  it  to  you  to  kneel  down,  and,  taking  the 
horse's  head  between  his  knees,  hold  it  with  the  nose 
upward.  With  the  off-rope  take  a  half-hitch  over  his 
off  hind-foot,  and  bring  down  his  off  fore-foot ;  take  a 
half-hitch  on  that,  and  another  half-hitch  on  the  hind- 
foot,  and  wind  the  rope  once  around  the  rope  between 
the  two  feet.  This  done,  receive  the  near-side  rope  and 
take  two  half-hitches  over  the  near  hind-foot.  Take  a 
strap,  already  prepared,  about  three  inches  wide,  and 
about  three  feet  in  length,  with  a  D  fastened  to  each 
end,  and  with  an  inch  strap  about  a  foot  from  each  end, 
about  three  feet  in  length,  so  prepared  with  a  buckle  as 
to  be  made  shorter  or  longer,  as  the  case  may  require, 
to  be  used  as  a  crouper ;  tie  the  strap  through  the  D  to 
the  off-foot  with  the  end  of  the  rope.  Go  behind  the 
horse,  and  taking  hold  of  the  tail  between  the  small 
strap  and  wide  one,  pull  the  wide  strap  as  far  under 
the  horse  as  possible,  and  rolling  him  half  over,  pull  the 
strap  up  to  just  beyond  the  point  of  the  hips ;  pass  the 
rope  on  the  near-side  through  the  D  of  the  strap,  and, 
drawing  the  near-legs  down  close  to  the  side,  tie  it. 
Keep  him  on  his  back  during  the  operation.     Be  care- 


120  TRAINING  OF    HORSES. 

ful  and  observe  the  instructions  closely,  as  a  failure  to 
do  every  portion  of  the  work  properly  may  cause  you 
to  be  injured. 

There  are  many  other  plans  for  tying  horses  for  sur- 
gical operations,  and  the  operator  must  exercise  his 
judgment,  governing  himself  by  the  location  of  the 
operation.  The  examples  we  have  given  are,  in  our 
opinion,  the  simplest,  safest,  and  surest  plans  which 
have  yet  been  adopted. 

TO    PETTEE    A    HORSE. 

Buckle  a  wide  strap  around  the  neck  of  the  horse,  to 
which  attach  a  strap  at  the  breast,  bringing  it  between 
the  fore-legs  and  through  over  the  surcingle,  with  a 
pulley  or  D  at  the  end  of  the  strap  just  beyond  where 
it  passes  through  over  the  surcingle.  Take  a  D,  and  to 
the  straight  side  attach  two  straps  with  buckles,  of  suf- 
ficient length  to  go  around  the  hind-leg,  one  above  and 
one  below  the  gambrel,  with  the  D  in  front.  Have  one 
for  each  leg.  Tie  a  strap  into  one  D,  pass  it  through 
the  pulley,  or  D,  at  the  surcingle,  and  tie  it  to  the  other 
D,  having  it  drawn  moderately  tight,  when  the  horse  is 
in  a  quiet  standing  position.  (See  Figure  22.)  This 
mode  of  fettering  has  been  found  very  serviceable  in 
pricking  horses.  We  do  not  consider  it  a  practical  plan 
to  prevent  kicking  in  harness,  as  it  does  not  teach  the 
horse  any  thing,  and  only  stops  him  from  kicking  for 
the  time  being.  If  the  strap  ran  to  the  mouth  instead 
of  the  breast,  it  might  be  tolerably  effectual  to  prevent 


^ 


322  TKAmiNG    OF  HORSES. 

kicking,  or  running  away,  as  it  would  operate  upon  the 
portion  w^here  control  is  necessary  to  be  had,  and  where, 
in  the  absence  of  the  strap,  he  might  be  reminded  of  it 
by  the  lines. 

We  have  used  with  success  a  side  fetter,  which  con- 
sists of  a  strap  about  three  feet  in  length,  with  a  D  in 
each  end,  and  a  short  strap  in  each  D,  to  buckle  around 
the  hind-leg  and  fore-leg,  just  below  the  fetlock. 

HITCHING    A    HORSE. 

To  hitch  a  horse  with  the  driving-rein,  take  hold  of  the 
rein  about  four  feet  from  the  end,  (it  being  unbuckled 
at  the  centre  of  the  hand-pieces,)  double  it  up,  tuck  it 
through  the  ring  of  the  bridle-bit,  and  place  the  loop 
over  the  bar  of  the  bit.  This  makes  a  substantial  tie- 
strap.  If  there  is  no  bar  to  the  bit,  take  a  half-hitch 
over  the  loop  tucked  through  the  ring.  It  will  answer 
the  same  purpose. 

A  very  common  way  of  hitching  throughout  the 
Eastern  States  is  to  carry  in  the  wagon  a  weight  of 
about  thirty-five  pounds,  with  a  strap  attached ;  the 
weight  being  laid  upon  the  ground  and  the  strap  fas- 
tened to  the  bridle-bit,  makes  an  effective  way  of 
hitching. 

A  very  good  plan  to  teach  a  horse  to  stand  without 
hitching  is  to  back  tli3  Avagon  up  to  the  post  and  tie  it 
by  the  axle.  The  horse  soon  learns  to  satisfy  his  un- 
easiness by  stepping  to  the  right  and  left,  without  at- 
tempting to  step  away. 


TRAINING   OP   HORSES.  123 

GENERAL     HINTS. 

Match  horses  with  reference  to  size  and  motion  par- 
ticularly— to  color  if  you  can,  and  have  the  other  re- 
quisites. 

Always  have  inside  lines  on  double  team  quite  long, 
and  back-strap  short. 

Never  check  a  horse  if  you  wish  to  have  him  last  long, 
except  while  training. 

Feed  in  low  mangers — water  and  oats  to  be  given 
first,  hay  afterward. 

If  worked,  very  little  water  to  be  given  in  the  night. 

Stop  at  the  top  of  a  hill,  and  let  your  horse  get 
breath. 

The  shoe  should  fit  the  foot — not  the  foot  fit  the  shoe. 
Never  cut  the  bars  or  frogs. 

Wet  the  hay  and  not  the  oats  for  a  coughing  horse. 

Never  let  a  horse  stand  long  facing  a  cold  wind. 

Feed  light  when  changing  feed. 

When  training  in  a  building,  have  carriages,  etc.,  re- 
moved. 

Always  approach  a  strange  horse  near  the  shoulder. 

Use  but  a  few  words  with  a  horse,  but  have  them  un- 
derstood. 
,  Be  earnest  and  prompt,  but  not  harsh. 

Teach  before  whipping,  and  when  whipping  do  it  to 
frighten,  not  to  enrage. 

Never  jump  from  a  wagon  when  your  horse  is  run- 
ning away.  More  lives^and  limbs  are  lost  in  that  way 
than  by  remaining  in  the  wagon. 


124  TRAINING   OF   HORSES. 

Exercise  sound  judgment  by  purchasing  a  horse 
suited  to  the  business  required  of  him.  Some  horses 
are  good  saddle-horses,  but  might  not  make  good  cart- 
horses. 

If  a  horse  cribs,  drive  a  few  three-ounce  tacks  through 
the  throat-latch  of  his  halter,  so  that  the  points  are  in- 
ward toward  the  neck  when  the  throat-latch  is  buckled 
moderately  tight.  As  he  attempts  cribbing,  the  swell 
of  the  neck  causes  him  to  be  pricked,  which  admonishes 
him  to  quit. 


training-  cattle. 


Breaking  Steers. — First,  get  your  steer  into  a  room 
or  small  yard,  so  that  he  can  not  run  from  you ;  then 
approach  him  slowly ;  and  if  he  runs,  do  not  be  in  a 
hurry,  but  wait  until  he  gets  to  the  end  of  the  room  or 
yard ;  then  approach  again  slowly,  as  before.  A  steer 
may  run  from  you  in  this  way  several  times  ;  but  do  not 
try  and  stop  him  with  your  whip,  or  force  him  to  think 
that  he  will  be  at  all  injured,  until  he  will  stand  and 
suffer  you  to  approach  him.  As  soon  as  this  is  accom- 
plished, gently  tie  a  rope  around  his  body  near  the 
shoulders,  rather  loosely.  Then  take  another  strap  or 
rope,  and  gently  fasten  one  end  to  the  near  fore-foot, 
then  pass  the  other  end  over  the  rope  or  surcingle,  be- 
neath the  body.  This  rope  should  be  sufficiently  long 
to  allow  him  to  run  to  the  end  of  the  yard  without  your 
moving ;  at  the  same  time  you  holding  the  rope  suf- 
ficiently firm  to  compel  him  to  move  on  three  legs. 
Then  approach  him  again  quietly,  and  so  continue  until 
he  will  allow  you  to  approach  and  handle  him  as  you 
please.  ISTow  take  a  short  hold  of  the  strap  with  your 
left  hand,  your  whip  in  the  right,  which  pass  over  his 
shoulders  and  quietly  touch  him  on  the  off-side  of  the 
head,  at  the  same  time  saying,  "Haw!"  and  continue 
this  until  he  moves  his  head  a  little  toward  you;  then 


126  TRAILING  CATTLE. 

stop  and  caress  him  about  the  neck  and  head.  Repeat 
this  until  he  will  haw  around  toward  you  at  the  word 
of  command.  If  he  attempts  to  run  from  you,  pull 
upon  the  strap,  saying,  "  Whoa !"  and  at  the  same  time 
hitting  lightly  upon  the  head  with  the  whip.  As  soon 
as  he  learns  to  stop  at  the  word  of  command  in  this 
way,  and  comes  toward  you  readily,  take  off  the  strap 
and  the  rope  around  the  body,  and  turn  him  out.  Then 
take  the  mate  and  give  him  the  same  course  of  training, 
until  you  can  accomplish  a  like  result  with  him.  Then 
turn  him  out.  By  this  time  the  first  steer  will  be  cool 
and  rested,  ready  to  receive  another  lesson.  Now  drive 
him  into  the  inclosure,  and  repeat  his  lesson  with  the 
whip.  Then  quietly  touching  him  gently  on  the  near 
side  of  the  head,  at  the  same  time  saying,  "  Gee !"  until 
he  will  step  around  from  you ;  then  caress  and  repeat 
until  he  will  gee  or  haw  readily.  Repeat  the  same 
lesson  with  his  mate,  which  is  all  that  you  should  try  to 
do  with  them  in  half  a  day.  Then  take  both  together 
in  the  same  room  or  yard,  and  repeat  these  lessons  until 
they  have  a  thorough  understanding  of  what  you  mean. 
Then  take  one  of  them  near  the  wall,  standing  by  his 
side,  hitting  him  with  your  whip  gently  Over  the  head, 
at  the  same  time  saying,  "Back!"  until  he  will  step 
back,  for  which  caress.  Repeat  this  until  he  will  go 
back  readily  at  the  word.  Give  the  other  steer  the 
same  lesson.  This  course  of  training  will  make  your 
steers  quite  obedient,  and  willing  to  haw,  gee,  or  back, 
which  will  be  all  that  you  should  require  of  them  for 
one  day's  lesson.  When  convenient,  repeat  the  lesson 
with  both  together.  Then  place  the  yoke  upon  them 
and  let  them  go  for  an  hour  or  two,  or  sufficiently  long 
to  become  reconciled  to  the  restraint  of  the  yoke.  Then 
repeat  your  lesson  in  the   open  yard  until  they  fully 


TRAINING    CATTLE.  127 

understand  what  you  require  of  them  while  yoked 
together. 

If  your  steers  have  learned  to  run  away  from  you, 
which  is  a  common  result  of  the  ordinary  method  of 
training,  put  on  the  rope  and  strap  to  the  foot.  If 
hitched  to  a  wagon  or  sled,  let  your  man  hold  the  foot- 
strap,  which  run  back  between  the  steers,  and  the 
moment  they  attempt  to  run  away,  he  pulls  ui)  their 
feet,  while  you  whip  them  over  the  head,  which  will 
stop  them  immediately,  and  in  a  short  time  break  up  the 
habit. 

Kicking  Cows. — It  is  natural  for  the  cow  to  stand 
while  being  milked;  consequently  the  heifer  knows 
nothing  about  kicking  until  hurt  or  frightened  into  it. 
The  lesson  in  regard  to  heifers  is  therefore  perfectly 
plain.  Be  careful  and  not  hurt  or  frighten  them.  If  by 
accident  you  should,  and  they  kick,  do  not  punish  them 
for  it.  Kindness  and  gentle  handling  is  the  only  remedy. 
If  your  cow  kicks,  let  your  reasoning  for  the  cause  be 
based  upon  the  principle  that  she  never  kicked  until  she 
was  injured,  and  the  remedy  will  at  once  suggest  itself. 
No  cow  was  ever  broken  of  kicking  by  striking  with 
the  stool  or  other  weapon.  This  practice  only  puts  the 
cow  on  her  guard,  and  as  you  come  near  her  with  the 
stool  she  uses  nature's  defense,  and  kicks.  Handle  her 
gently.  If  she  walks  off  or  kicks,  pay  no  attention  to 
it,  using  no  loud  words  or  blows.  If  her  teats  are  sore, 
she  is  quite  liable  to  do  either;  and  you  must  have 
patience  until  they  are  healed.  In  our  experience,  we 
have  never  found  a  confirmed  kicker  in  a  yard  where 
kindness  was  a  characteristic  of  the  family  who  handled 
the  dairy ;  on  the  contrary,  we  have  found  plenty  of 
them  where  quarreling,  loud  words,  and  general  bad 
temper  prevailed. 


TRAINOTG-   DOGS, 


The  dog  is  the  most  domestic  and  intelligent  of  all 
animals.  He  is  easy  to  teach,  and,  if  properly  used,  is  a 
faithful  and  willing  servant  of  man ;  if  abused  and  ill- 
treated,  he  is  quite  apt  to  be  disagreeable  and  a  nuisance. 
The  dog  being  so  closely  a  companion  of  mankind,  it 
becomes  a  duty  to  educate  him  in  such  a  manner  that  he 
will  reflect  credit  upon  his  master,  and  be  an  agreeable 
inmate  of  the  household  as  well  as  a  useful  assistant. 
We  have  given  much  attention  to  this  subject,  it  being 
one  which  can  not  fail  to  interest  those  who  give  it 
thoughtful  application.  We  have  had  two  of  the  best 
trained  dogs,  probably,  ever  known  in  this  country,  and 
at  the  present  writing  have  a  greyhound  which  under- 
stands to  obey  thirty-two  different  words,  and  we  always 
found  a  pleasure  in  teaching  them.  The  rules  whereby 
any  one  who  will  be  patient,  kind,  and  persevering,  can 
educate  dogs  to  be  useful  as  well  as  to  perform  pleasing 
tricks,  are  easily  understood.  We  give  a  few,  sufficient 
to  lead  the  operator  to  the  practice  of  many  more. 
There  are  of  course  as  many  different  traits  and  dis- 
positions of  dogs,  as  there  are  different  breeds,  and 
judgment  will  be  required  in  teaching  the  dog,  to  train 
him  to  that  to  which  he  is  best  adapted  by  nature.  For 
instance,  a  Terrier  will  catch  rats,  while  a  Setter  will 
scent  birds,  without  training  ^  the  St.  Bernard  is  a  faith- 


TRAINING  DOGS.  129 

ful  watchman,  and  the  Greyhound  takes  to  running,  from 
his  birth.  These  natural  traits  it  is  necessary  to  have 
in  mind  in  attempting  to  teach  the  dog,  being  careful  in 
not  urging  upon  him  the  performance  of  any  duties  or 
tricks  which  are  manifestly  not  in  his  nature  to  do.  In 
selecting  dogs  for  any  particular  lesson,  study  this  sub- 
ject closely.  As  probably  the  most  useful  lesson  to  be 
taught,  we  commence  with 

TRAINING    THE    SHEPHERD    TO    DRIVE. 

Take  a  well-bred  Shepherd-dog,  about  six  months  old, 
reared  in  some  secluded  place,  hearing  no  words  with  a 
meaning  intended  to  be  attached,  except  his  name.  lie 
should  know  nothing  of  the  ordinary  words  in  use 
toward  dogs,  and  not  have  been  handled  by  boys  or 
careless  persons.  Take  him  alone  with  you  in  a  large 
room.  The  first  thing  to  be  done  is  to  teach  him  to  lead  ; 
placing  a  strap  around  his  neck  that  can  not  hurt  him,  to 
which  attach  a  cord  six  or  eight  feet  in  length  ;  stand 
still  and  hold  upon  the  cord,  for  a  few  minutes,  until  he 
ceases  struggling  to  get  away.  It  is  best  to  give  one 
lesson  each  day  during  the  whole  training.  The  first 
two  lessons  should  be  devoted  to  teaching  him  that  he 
can  not  get  away.  Now  commence  teaching  him  to 
come  to  you  by  pulling  upon  the  rope  and  saying, 
"JTere/"  using  only  the  one  word. 

In  the  use  of  this  as  well  as  all  other  words  used  in 
teaching  the  dog,  one  word  is  all  that  is  best  to  try  and 
teach  him  for  any  one  act,  it  being  so  difficult  to  make 
him  understand  if  you  attempt  to  teach  him  more. 
When  lie  is  once  fixed  in  the  habit  of  minding  the 
word,  you  may  then  use  such  other  words  in  connection 
therewith  as  are  pleasant  to  the  ear,  as,  for  instance, 


130  TRAINING  DOGS. 

"  Come  here,  sir !"  "Without  the  word  here  he  will  not 
know  what  you  mean,  and  the  others,  "being  meaningless 
to  him,  do  not  puzzle  him.  He  will  also  be  less  liable  to 
have  too  many  masters,  as  the  one  word  will  not  be 
likely  to  be  used  every  time  by  a  person  unacquainted 
with  your  mode  of  training.  Of  course,  if  you  prefer 
it,  you  may,  in  giving  the  lesson,  substitute  other  words 
for  those  laid  down ;  but  we  give  those  which  are  the 
readiest  to  the  tongue. 

As  the  dog  comes  up,  whether  voluntarily  or  not,  say, 
"  Do  /"  and  caress  him.  A  lesson  of  an  hour  or  two, 
working  slowly  and  patiently,  will  be  about  right  each 
time.  Proceed  with  it  until  he  will  come  to  you  from 
any  portion  of  the  room  at  the  word  "  here."  He 
will  have  learned  by  this  time,  probably,  that  the  word 
"do"  is  for  him  to  understand  that  you  are  through 
with  him.  When  he  perfectly  realizes  this,  you  may 
then  prefix  words,  and  say,  "  That  will  do"  emphasizing 
upon  the  word  do  each  time.  You  may  also  now  say, 
"  Come  here  /"  remembering  that  the  words  here  and  do 
are  the  only  ones  he  obeys.  He  can  not  connect  words 
t.o  form  sentences,  or  be  made  to  understand  them  when 
thus  connected. 

You  now  wish  to  teach  him  the  words  "  Go  "  and 
" Halt"  To  do  this,  you  will  place  yourself  in  a  posi- 
tion of  the  room  opposite  to  where  the  dog  would 
naturally  desire  to  go,  (for  instance,  the  door,  or  some' 
thing  which  would  attract  him,  such  as  food,)  Say, 
"  Go  !"  and  by  coaxing  and  urging  him,  start  him  along ; 
as  he  gets  part  of  the  way,  say,  "  Plait  !"  pull  upon  the 
string,  stopping  him,  and  say,  "  Halt!"  again.  Proceed 
with  this  until  he  has  learned  to  obey  both  the  words 
"go"  and  "halt."  To  teach  these  four  words  named 
will  generally  take  three  or  four  weeks.     Now  teach 


GAINING   DOGS,  131 

him  to  bark  at  the  word  "  speak,"  by  holding  up  some- 
thing which  he  wants  very  much,  for  instance,  food, 
when  he  is  quite  hungry.  You  may  now  let  him  loose 
and  let  him  run  about  with  yon,  {previously  keeping 
him  confined,  but  not  in  a  narrow  place,)  being  watch* 
ful  that  he  does  not  stray  o%  nor  be  hurt  or  handled  by 
others.  He  will  soon  become  handy  about  the  house* 
You  having  control  of  him  through  the  words  you  have 
taught  him,  you  can  keep  him  in  his  place  by  word  of 
command.  For  instance,  if  you  wish  him  to  go  out  of 
doors,  show  him  the  door  and  say,  "  Go  out !"  The  word 
"  go  "  will  start  him,  and  in  a  little  while  he  will  be- 
come familiar  with  the  word  "  out."  Let  him  have  a 
fixed  place  to  sleep,  and  teach  him  its  name.  If  you 
have  a  dog  already  trained  to  drive  and  go  behind,  take 
him  out  with  him  to  drive  in  the  cattle.  He  will  thus 
learn  that  they  will  run  from  him.  Say  nothing  to  him 
while  he  is  with  the  other  dog,  unless  he  attempts  to  go 
to  the  head  of  any  of  the  cattle.  This  you  must  not 
allow.  After  two  or  three  times  take  him  out  without 
the  other  dog,  and  allow  him  to  rim  after  the  cattle,  pro- 
vided the  cattle  are  used  to  being  driven  by  dogs.  It 
will  not  do  to  let  him  run  where  there  is  a  chance  of 
his  being  turned  upon.  If  he  runs  them  too  fast,  say, 
"  Steady  !"  He  will  not  know  what  you  mean,  but  as 
you  use  words  with  him  only  when  they  mean  some- 
thing, he  will  be  apt  to  pay  attention  and  go  slower. 
If  he  does  not,  say  "Halt !"  then  "  Go  !"  steadying  him 
by  the  word  "  Steady !"  if  possible.  He  will  gradually 
learn  its  meaning  by  its  repetition.  If  you  have  no 
other  dog,  you  will  let  him  go  without,  being  more 
watchful  of  him  that  he  does  not  go  to  the  head  of  the 
cattle.  Otherwise  say  nothing  to  him  except  "  Go !" 
not  letting  him  start  imtil  he  gets  the  wor<L     After  a 


232  TEAmES-G   DOGS'. 

while  you  may  proceed  to  practice  upon  the  other  words 
he  knows.  If  he  shows  no  disposition  to  bite  at  the 
heels,  or  pull  at  the  tail,  take  a  rope  and  tie  a  knot  a  short 
distance  up,  fringe  out  the  end,  and  play  with  him  with 
the  rope,  letting  him  eatch  hold  of  it,  and  cause  him  to 
bark  at  it  by  using  the  word  "  Speak."  When  he  takes 
hold  of  the  rope  say,  "  Up/"  and  when  you  wish  him  to 
let  go,  "_Z>o  /  "  You  may  then,  with  a  slow  cow,  call  him 
up,  and,  taking  hold  of  the  tail,  say  "  Up?  and  "Speak" 
to  teach  him  to  take  hold  of  the  tail  and  bark,  when  you 
say,  "  Start  'em  tepj"  and  "  Speak  to  them !"  and  to  let 
go  when  you  say,  " That  will  do!"  Now  accu&toni  him 
to  the  word  "Fetch  "  for  sheep,  and  "  Get "  for  cattle, 
etc. ;  so  that  when  you  say,  "  Go  and  get  the  cattle !"  he 
knows  you  mean  cattle,  instead  of  sheep  or  horses. 
You  may  now  teach  him  to  know  the  right  from  the  left, 
and  to  obey  your  orders  in  that  respect,  by  taking  him 
into  a  large  room,  and  by  the  motion  of  your  right  hand 
try  to  have  him  go  to  the  right  from  you,  saying, 
«  Go  "— "  Right !"  If  he  does  not  do  it,  say,  "  Halt !" 
and  repeat.  When  he  does  do  it,  say,  u  That  will  do  !  " 
Continue  this  until  he  will  go  to  the  right  at  the  motion 
of  your  hand  and  the  word  "  Right ;"  then  with  your 
left  hand  making  motions,  and  the  word  "Left,"  you 
teach  him  the  opposite.  By  these  motions  and  an  appeal 
to  the  intelligence  of  the  dog  by  your  countenance  and 
eyes,  you  can  start  him  for  the  fields  in  any  direction  yon 
choose,  and  he  soon  leams  to  do  your  wants  with  very 
little  telling.  Following  these  ndes  will  satisfy  you  that 
the  dog  can  be  taught  indefinitely  respecting  all  things 
which  pertain  to  his  peculiar  nature, 

THE    WATCH-DOG. 
For  a  good  watch-dog  select  one  of  a  breed  adapted 


TRAINING  DOGS.  133 

to  the  business.  There  is  but  little  that  you  can  teach 
such  an  one,  as  it  is  somewhat  of  a  natural  trait ;  and 
any  other  than  a  natural  watch-dog,  however  much 
you  may  labor  with  him,  will  never  be  reliable.  A 
barking  dog,  one  that  will  be  noisy  on  the  approach  of 
intruders,  is  the  best ;  a  dog  that  bites  but  does  not 
bark  is  only  fit  to  put  in  barns  or  other  out-buildings 
nights,  chaining  him  up  day-times;  and  then  he  is 
dangerous,  even  to  his  keeper,  as  a  sudden  start  will 
cause  him  to  bite  any  one.  To  teach  your  dog,  give  him 
something  to  watch,  saying,  "  Take  care  of  it  !"  as  you 
place  him  near  the  object.  He  will  soon  learn  the  word, 
and  upon  being  directed  to  any  particular  thing,  will 
faithfully  guard  it.  While  teaching  him  allow  ho  one 
but  yourself  to  approach  him  without  setting  him  on. 
You  may  have  a  stranger  approach  him  and  tease  him, 
you  urging  him  to  drive  the  person  away,  and  as  soon 
as  he  starts,  let  the  person  run,  you  calling  the  dog 
back.  While  young  do  not  compel  him  to  stay  too  long 
at  one  thing,  and  when  you  go  up  to  him  say,  "  That  will 
do  !  "  feeding  him  something.  After  the  manner  spoken 
of  in  the  previous  illustration,  whenever  you  wish  the 
dog  to  bite  or  go  at  any  person  or  thing,  you  will  teach 
him  words  the  reverse  of  what  you  mean,  such  as,  "  Be 
still,"  "  Get  out,"  "  Lie  down."  Yon  will  see  that  a 
person  not  understanding  the  dog  will  not  be  very  apt 
to  get  near  him,  as  he  would  naturally  make  use  of  those 
words,  and  they  would  be  setting  him  on,  instead  of 
quieting  him.  To  call  him  yourself,  use  such  convenient 
word  as  you  choose,  but  not  one  naturally  used  by 
others.  As  this  ingenious  use  of  words  is  about  the 
only  new  idea  we  can  suggest  to  teach  Watch  Dogs,  the 
master  can  exercise  hi»  own  ingenuity  to  render  it 
practical. 


134  TRAINING   DOGS. 


THE    TRICK    DOG. 

Many  amusing  tricks  may  be  taught  which  will  ex 
liibit  in  a  wonderful  degree  the  intelligence  of  the  dog. 
As  we  have  before  said,  much  depends  upon  the  breed. 
A  dog  of  one  peculiar  breed  may  be  taught  a  certain 
class  of  tricks,  while  that  of  another  breed  will  be 
entirely  different  in  his  characteristics.  A  well-bred 
dog  is  hard  to  teach  any  tricks  except  those  pertaining 
to  his  nature,  while  a  mongrel  cur  is  quite  easy  to  teach 
any.  Perhaps  a  Spaniel-poodle  dog  is  the  most  tract- 
able of  any,  though  a  black-and-tan  is  quite  apt.  We 
give  a  few  examples,  sufficient  to  form  a  groundwork 
for  the  intelligent  operator  to  extend  the  list  of  tricks 
at  his  pleasure.     We  begin  with  a  lesson 

TO    TEACH    HIM    TO    SIT    UP. 

Set  him  up  in  the  corner,  and  with  a  switch  hit  him 
lightly  under  the  mouth,  snapping  your  finger  and  say- 
in g,  " Sit  up  /  "  As  he  conies  down  put  him  back  and 
repeat  until  he  will  remain,  which  he  will  do  in  a  few 
minutes ;  then  say,  "  That  will  do  !  "  and  coax  him  down 
and  caress  him.  When  he  has  learned  this  sufficiently, 
set  him  up  against  a  wall  and  try  the  same  thing ;  this 
will  require  more  patience,  as  h#can  so  easily  get  over 
to  either  side.  When,  however,  he  will  do  it,  then  take 
him  out  in  the  centre  of  the  floor ;  this  will  take  still 
longer  ;  but  if  followed  up  kindly  and  perse veringly,  he 
will  learn  to  perform  the  trick  at  the  word  and  the  snap- 
ping of  the  finger. 

TO    TEACH    HIM    TO    SIT    DOWN. 

Press  your  hand  upon  his  back  toward  his  hind-legs 
and  say,  "Sit  down !  "  at  the  same  time  tapping  with 


TRAINING  DOGS.  135 

j  _ir  foot  upon  the  floor.  If  he  attempts  to  lie  down  or 
draw  his  feet  under  him,  scare  him  up,  and  teach  him 
that  "  sit  down  "  is  what  you  are  after,  tapping  him 
under  the  chin  to  keep  his  head  well  up.  He  will,  after 
a  few  lessons,  sit  down  at  the  word  and  a  tapping  of 
your  foot  on  the  floor. 

TO    STAND    OT. 

Take  some  food  in  your  hands  and  offer  it  to  him» 
holding  it  well  up,  and  say,  "Stand  up  /"  Repeat  this 
until  he  will  stand  up  quite  readily,  holding  out  your 
Unoccupied  hand  for  him  to  support  his  fore-feet  on. 
Gradually  take  away  your  hand,  each  time  that  he  comes 
up,  saying,  "  Stand  up  !"  Then  take  him  by  the  for- 
ward feet  and  lift  him  up  quite  hard,  and  say,  "  Stand 
up  !"  Y<5u  will  soon  get  him  so  that  when  you  lift  him 
he  will  straighten  up  and  show  signs  of  standing  ;  then 
make  the  effort  to  teach  him  to  stand  up  at  the  word 
and  the  holding  out  of  your  hand.  You  may  now  com- 
bine this  with  the  last  two  tricks,  saying,  "  Sit  up  !" 
"Stand  up!"  "  Sit  down  !"  "  That  will  do  !"  These  are 
the  first  tricks  he  should  be  taught,  as  they  are  the 
foundation  for  others. 

TO    GET    INTO    A    CHAIB. 

This  is  very  easily  done,  taking  your  own  way  to  coax 
him  into  the  chair,  using  the  word  "Chair"  whenevet 
you  cause  him  to  get  into  it.  When  he  becomes  familial 
With  the  word,  accompanied  with  a  motion  of  the  hand 
toward  a  chair,  you  may  use  other  words  in  connection 
therewith,  as,  "  Go  and  get  up  into  the  chair  !  "  After  he 
will  do  this  handy,  you  may  then  teacli  him  to  put  his 
paws  upon  the  back  of  the  chair,  by  asking  him  to 
'  Put  them  upln  or  saying,  "  Up!"  assisting  him  at  first. 


136  TRAINING  DOGS. 

When  he  will  do  it  readily,  you  may  teach  him  to  put 
his  head  down  upon  his  paws,  by  placing  it  there,  and 
repeating  the  word  "  Down,"  of  course  caressing  him 
each  time  that  he  complies.  To  have  him  hold  his  head 
up,  tap  him  under  the  mouth  and  say,  "  Up  /"  remember- 
ing to  say,  "  That  will  do!"  when  you  are  through  with 
the  trick.  You  may  now  teach  him  to  jump  over  the 
chair  by  playfully  coaxing  him  to  do  so,  saying, 
"  Jump  !" 

TO    MAKE    HIM    GG    LAME. 

Tap  him  with  a  little  rod  upon  the  hind-foot,  saying, 
" 'JjCime  I '"  teaching  him  to  stand  and  hold  it  up  whenever 
you  say  "  lame."  Kow  coax  him  along,  and  if  he  puts 
it  down,  hit  him  quite  smartly  on  the  foot,  making  him 
keep  it  up  until  he  wTill  go  lame  at  the  word  and  a 
motion  of  the  rod.  Kow,  wmenever  you  send  him  into 
the  chair,  as  before,  as  he  goes  to  jump  down,  stop  him, 
teaching  him  to  wait  for  the  word  "Do"  As  he  comes 
down  with  his  fore-feet  on  the  floor  say,  "Steady  /"  and 
teach  him  to  stop  with  his  hind-legs  up  in  the  chair. 
He  is  now  ready 

to  mm  gn  Sis  forward  legs. 

To  teach  him  this,  take  hold  of  his  hind-legs,  lift  them 
up  and  walk  him  around  in  a  circle,  and  place  them  in 
a  chair,  saying,  "Hound/"  Do  this  every  time  you  per* 
form  the  trick  of  having;  him  o*et  into  the  chair.  After 
a  while  take  him  by  the  tail  and  lift  him  up,  and, 
switching  his  hind-legs  lightly,  walk  him  around  in 
the  same  maimer,  saying,  "Round /"  as  before.  With 
patience  and  perseverance  he  will  learn  to  lift  up  his 
hind-legs  at  the  motion  of  the  whip,  and  at  the  words, 
"Go  around /"  perform  a  circle,  walking  on  his  forward 


TRAINING   DOGS.  137 

feet,  and  place  his  hind-feet  in  the  chair ;  of  course  the 
height  of  the  chair  must  be  adapted  to  the  length  of  the 
dog's  legs. 

TO  SIT  ON  A  STOOL. 
It  is  now  very  easy  to  teach  him  to  "  sit  down  "  on  a 
low  stool.  You  may  then  teach  him  to  "  Take  a  seat " 
on  the  stool  by  leading  him  around  by  his  forward  feet, 
and  setting  him  on  the  stool  with  his  forward  feet  held 
up,  saying,  "  Seat !"  You  then  have  him  taught  to  go 
on  all-fours  and  ait  down  on  the  stool,  and  to  go  on  his 
hind-feet  and  take  a  seat,  with  his  forward  feet  up. 

TO    TEACH    HIM    TO    FIND    THINGS. 

Take  something  with  which  he  is  accustomed  to  play, 
and  after  getting  him  enlivened  with  play,  call  him  up 
to  you  and  blindfold  him,  and  throw  the  article  a  short 
distance  from  you.  If  the  dog  has  good  scent,  tell  him 
you  have  "  lost;"  then  remove  the  blindfold  and  he  will 
search  and  find  it.  Repeat  this,  throwing  it  farther 
each  time,  until  you  can  throw  your  knife  or  any  thing 
which  you  have  held  in  your  hand,  at  a  distance,  you 
looking  in  the  direction,  and  saying,  "  I  have  lost  my 
knife."  He  will  search  until  he  finds  and  brings  it  to 
you.  If  the  dog  has  not  good  scent,  teach  him  to  look 
down  at  the  word  "find"  and  up  at  the  word  "up" 
doing  as  before. 

We  have  now  given  a  sufficient  number  of  examples 
to  set  forth  the  important  rules  which  govern  the  teach- 
ing of  dogs.  By  an  observance  of  these  you  may  teach 
your  dog  to  climb  ladders,  fetch  things  to  you,  carry 
baskets,  roll  over,  lie  down,  shut  doors,  and  an  almost 
innumerable  number  of  tricks.  To  teach  the  dog,  how- 
ever, you  must  have  perfect  control  over  your  temper, 
never  whip  severely,  and  never  get  out  of  patience. 


SHOEING. 


The  object  in  shoeing  horses  is  to  prevent  the  hoofs 
from  being  broken  or  otherwise  injured,  as  would  natu- 
rally result  from  driving  over  our  hard  roads  unpro- 
tected in  this  manner.  It  has  often  been  remarked, 
and  truly  so,  that  "  No  foot,  no  horse,"  which  literally 
means,  a  horse  without  sound  feet  is  of  but  little  value. 
The  feet  are  the  basis  upon  which  the  whole  superstruc- 
ture rests,  a  beautiful  and  complicated  piece  of  mechan- 
ism, and,  like  all  complicated  machinery,  easily  deranged ; 
hence  the  necessity  of  preserving  it  in  a  healthy  state, 
to  accomplish  which,  shoeing  has  been  instituted,  which, 
when  properly  done,  has  the  desired  effect.  The  shoe 
has  two  very  important  offices  to  perform  :  1st,  to  pre- 
serve the  hoof  in  its  natural  shape;  2d,  to  protect  it 
from  injury.  In  order  to  properly  understand  the  prin- 
ciples of  shoeing,  it  is  necessary  that  we  should  under- 
stand the  structure  of  the  horse's  foot,  and  with  this 
view  we  will  briefly  consider  its  anatomical  relations. 
Tke  hoof,  or  horny  case,  is  the  first  object  claiming  our 
attention,  which,  for  convenience  of  description,  has 
been  divided  thus  :  the  crust  or  wall,  the  sole,  and  the 
bars.  The  crust  or  wall  is  that  part  which  covers  the 
anterior  or  front  part  of  the  foot,  attached  above  to  the 
skin  at  the  termination  of  the  hairs.  This  upper  mar- 
gin is  termed  the  coronet.    The  crust  or  wall,  internally, 


SHOEING.  139 

is  made  up  of  numerous  horny  lamince,  which  are  very  soft 
and  elastic  in  their  character.  The  sole  is  the  ground 
surface  of  the  hoof,  anterior  to  the  bars  and  frog.  The 
bars  are  reflected  processes  of  the  wall  passing  obliquely 
across  the  bottom  of  the  foot  on  either  side  of  the  frog, 
giving  support  to  the  heels.  The  internal  surfaces  are 
covered  in  part  by  horny  laminae  or  plates,  but  are  less 
numerous  in  proportion  to  the  surface  covered  than  are 
those  of  the  crust  or  wall.  The  wall  is  divided  into 
the  toe,  the  quarter,  and  the  heel.  The  toe  is  the  front 
part  of  the  hoof,  the  quarters  are  the  central  parts  of 
the  wall  on  either  side,  and  the  heels  are  the  posterior 
portions  of  the  crust  or  wall,  being  the  thinner  and 
weaker  parts.  This  horny  case  in  its  natural  condition 
is  quite  elastic,  thus  preserving  the  whole  animal  frame 
from  concussion.  The  frog  is  a  triangular,  elastic  cush- 
ion situated  between  the  bars,  and  filling  up  the  entire 
triangular  space  between  the  quarters  and  heels,  com- 
pleting the  ground  surface  of  the  foot.  The  internal 
surface  of  the  frog  is  very  irregular,  presenting  three 
elevations  and  two  depressions.  The  central  ridge  or 
division  extends  from  before  backward  and  upward. 
The  two  depressions  between  these  ridges  receive  the 
soft  cushion  or  ligamentous  frog.  The  foot  internally 
comprises  the  coffin,  navicular,  and  lower  part  of  the 
coronary  or  small  postern  bones,  also  ligaments,  carti- 
lages, the  sensitive  laminae,  sole,  and  ^'og.  The  coronet 
or  small  postern  bone  is  nearly  square,  presenting  four 
surfaces,  the  upper,  fov  at-oulating  with  the  large  pos- 
tern, having  an  elevation  in  its  centre,  forming  with  the 
large  postern  a  kind  of  hinge-joint.  By  this  arrange- 
ment strength  is  added  to  the  parts.  The  lower  sur- 
face is  concave  in  the  centre,  which  uniting  with  the 
^ffin  and  navicular  bones,  forms  another  hinge-joint  of 


140  SHOEING. 

still  greater  strength.  The  coffin-bone  is  semi-lanar  in 
form — the  front  surface  is  convex,  the  ground  and  pos- 
terior surfaces  are  concave.  The  projections  behind  on 
either  side  are  called  the  alas  or  wings,  to  which  are 
attached  the  lateral  cartilages,  which  extend  upward 
and  backward,  and  are  readily  discovered  by  placing 
the  fingers  above  the  hoof  at  the  quarters.  The  navicu- 
lar bone  completes  the  bones  of  the  foot,  situated  pos- 
teriorily  between  the  coffin  and  coronary  bones,  form- 
ing what  is  commonly  known  as  the  coffin  or  navicu- 
lar joint.  It  is  semi-oval  in  form,  presenting  four  sur- 
faces, the  upper  articulating  with  the  coronary,  the  an- 
terior with  the  coffin-bone ;  the  lower,  over  which  the 
perforans  tendon  or  back  siuew  plays,  has  a  much 
broader  surface  than  either  of  the  others.  Posterior 
and  under  these  bones,  we  have  the  ligamentous 
frog ;  between  this  frog  and  the  sole  we  have  the 
sensitive  frog;  covering  the  anterior  surface  of  the 
coffin-bone  we  hud  a  very  delicate  structure,  known 
as  the  sensitive  lamina?,  which  is  very  vascular  and 
largely  supplied  with  minute  nerves.  This  laminated 
structure  corresponds  to  that  of  the  hoof,  and  when 
adjusted,  fills  up  the  entire  circle  of  the  hoof.  I  deem 
it  unnecessary  to  go  into  a  more  minute  description  of 
the  parts,  as  it  would  be  uninteresting  to  the  general 
reader.  To  those  who  feel  interested  in  the  subject  of 
shoeing,  great  benefit  will  be  derived  by  a  careful  peru- 
sal of  these  remarks. 

It  has  been  proven  by  long  experience,  that  the  sen- 
sitive parts  within  the  hoof  do  not  suffer  so  long  as  the 
bearing  of  the  animal  is  confined  to  the  crust  or  wall,  but 
when  removed  from  that  bearing  they  soon  bec6me  dis- 
eased ;  hence  if  the  sole  of  the  foot  bear  against  the  shoe 
m  any  considerable  degree,  the  fleshy  or  inner  sole  be- 


SHOEING.  141 

comes  bruised  between  the  shoe  and  the  horny  sole 
below  and  the  coffin-bone  above — the  horse  soon  be- 
comes lame  in  consequence.  It  is  obvious,  therefore, 
that  the  crust  or  wall  being  the  natural  bearing  of  tho 
horse's  foot,  it  should  be  carefully  protected,  and  confine 
the  bearing  of  the  shoe  to  that  part  of  the  foot.  A  shoe 
of  the  breadth  of  the  crust  would  defend  the  foot  suffi- 
ciently as  long  as  it  would  last ;  but  in  consequence  of 
its  rapid  wear,  such  a  shoe  would  only  be  applicable  for 
racing,  or  temporary  purposes.  To  give  all  the  sup- 
port the  crust  can  receive,  and  at  the  same  time  to  make 
the  shoe  sufficiently  strong  to  wear  a  reasonable  time, 
the  upper  surface  of  the  shoe  should  be  divided  into  two 
parts.  The  first  or  outer  margin  should  be  perfectly  level, 
and  of  the  width  of  the  crust ;  the  second,  the  inner  mar- 
gin, beveled  inward  so  as  to  avoid  pressure  upon  the 
sole,  leaving  the  heels  of  the  shoe  perfectly  level  from  the 
last  nail-hole  backward.  It  must  be  borne  in  mind 
that  no  one  form  of  shoe  is  applicable  to  all  forms  and 
conditions  of  the  feet.  The  above  shoe  is  intended  only 
for  the  healthy  foot — as  it  deviates  from  that  standard, 
so  must  the  form  and  bearing  of  the  shoe  be  altered  to 
meet  the  altered  conditions  as  they  occur  in  the  horse's 
foot.  To  more  clearly  illustrate  this  subject  is  only  to 
refer  to  the  injuries  of  shoeing  as  ordinarily  practiced. 
Examine,  if  you  please,  the  ordinary  shoe  used  on  all 
occasions,  and  upon  all  forms  and  conditions  of  the 
feet ;  place  a  level  across  the  heels,  and  you  find  the 
shoe  at  the  quarters  presents  a  concave  surface,  being 
beveled  from  without  inward;  hence  the  foots  rests  in 
a  concavity.  When  such  a  shoe  is  nailed  to  the  foot,  it 
presents  a  lateral  resistance  to  the  natural  expansion  of 
the  foot,  it  being  impossible  for  the  heels  to  expand 
up  these  inclined  planes  ;  hence  the  tendency  to  force 


142  SHOEING. 

them  inward,  so  that  they  gradually  become  contract* 
ed.  This  is  a  natural  result,  and  follows,  sooner  or  later, 
every  case  where  shoes  have  been  thus  contraction.  On 
the  other  hand,  shoes  properly  made  and  fitted  have 
never  been  known  to  cause  contraction.  If  we  ob- 
serve the  foot  in  the  early  stages  of  contraction,  we  find 
this  horny  case  gradually  becoming  less ;  it  no  longer 
accommodates  itself  to  the  soft  structure  within  its 
limits  ;  the  result  is,  concussion  is  greater,  and  the 
elasticity  very  much  less ;  in  consequence  of  which  the 
parts  become  bruised,  fever  ensues,  which  still  fur- 
ther facilitates  contraction  of  the  hoof  by  absorbing  its 
moisture,  and  we  soon  discover  lameness  in  consequence 
of  corns  making  their  appearance.  The  first  effect  of 
contraction  is  to  bruise  the  sensitive  portion  of  the 
hoof.  Particularly  is  this  the  case  at  that  part  of  the 
foot  formed  by  the  crust  and  bars,  causing  a  contused 
bruise  which  is  called  a  corn.  This  occurs  on  the  inside 
quarter.  The  crust  and  bar  forming  a  triangular  space 
causes  a  two-fold  pressure  upon  the  sensitive  parts 
within,  acting  like  a  vice ;  and  as  the  space  becomes 
diminished  the  contusion  becomes  greater,  the  hoof 
becomes  more  hard  and  brittle,  with  a  strong  tendency 
to  crack  on  very  slight  concussion.  On  removing  a 
portion  of  the  horn  at  the  part  of  the  foot  indicated,  we 
find  a  red  spot,  sometimes  slightly,  at  other  times  of  a 
brownish  or  bluish-red  appearance.  The  feet  in  the  latter 
stage  are  in  such  a  condition  as  to  require  prompt  at- 
tention, or  we  may  have  a  sinus  forming  through  the 
quarter,  producing  a  disease  known  as  quitter,  often 
terminating  in  permanent  lameness,  and  frequently  in 
deformity.  Few  men  believe  corns  to  be  of  so  serious 
a  nature  ;  hence  their  readiness  to  attribute  these  effects 
to  other  causes.     When  they  investigate,  as  I  have  done, 


SHOEING.  148 

%>ir*t  w\\J  find  tV\>XT  error.  Ossification,  navicular-joint 
disease,  fiMikdv^  and  a  variety  of  other  diseases,  are 
frequently  ihie  O  contraction  of  the  feet.  Another  evil 
in  shoeing,  which  is  calculated  to  do  much  mischief,  is 
the  fitting  of  the  shoe  to  the  foot  while  red  hot.  This 
has  been  a  source  of  complaint  throughout  all  Europe. 
In  this  country  there  is  little  thought  of  it,  to  such  an 
extent  does  the  practice  prevail.  The  application  of  the 
shoe  in  this  condition,  if  performed  by  a  careless  work- 
man, frequently  is  the  cause  of  much  mischief,  and  un- 
der the  most  favorable  circumstances,  performed  with  all 
possible  care,  causes  an  unhealthy  secretion  of  horn  for 
a  long  time  after,  rendering  the  animal  less  sure-footed, 
and  often  causes  lameness  to  follow  its  application.  The 
shoe  should  in  all  cases  be  fitted  to  the  foot,  and  not  the 
foot  to  the  shoe.  This  of  course  would  be  attended  with 
more  labor  ;  hence  the  unwillingness  of  smiths  to  do  it. 
Better  would  it  be  for  the  owner  to  pay  double  the  price 
for  shoeing  his  horse  than  to  have  injury  done  by  the 
application  of  the  red-hot  shoe.  In  almost  all  European 
countries,  within  the  last  few  years,  the  smith  has  been 
much  benefited  by  the  rapid  advances  made  toward  per- 
fecting this  important  branch  of  labor,  mainly  through 
the  efforts  of  our  professors  in  the  various  veterinary 
colleges  pointing  out,  as  they  have  done,  the  evils  of 
this  shoe  and  the  benefits  of  that  one. 

The  varieties  worthy  of  mention  are  as  follows :  Prof. 
Coleman's  frog-bar  shoe,  James  Turner's  unilateral  shoe, 
Mr.  Friend's  frog-pressure  shoe,  and  Mr.  Percival's  san- 
dal. Many  oth^r  varieties  have  been  introduced  from 
time  to  time,  requiring  no  special  remark  in  a  work  like 
this.  Prof.  Coleman's  frog-bar  shoe  consists  of  a  cir- 
cular piece  of  iron,  flat  on  the  upper  side,  about  half  an 
inch  thick,  broader  back  than  front,  so  as  to  afford  pro- 


144  SHOEING. 

tection  and  limited  pressure  upon  the  frog,  the  under 
surface  being  nearly  flat ;  the  shoe  is  secured  by  four 
nails  on  either  side.  This  shoe,  in  some  cases,  answers 
a  very  good  purpose  in  protecting  tender  feet  from  con- 
cussion. 

James  Turner's  unilateral  shoe  differs  only  in  its  appli- 
cation from  the  shoe  described  for  healthy  feet.  It  is 
nailed  to  the  foot,  free  on  the  inside,  having  six  nails  on 
the  outside  and  two  on  the  inside  toe,  with  a  level  bear- 
ing for  the  crust  and  heels.  Mr.  Friend's  shoe  is  designed 
for  the  communication  of  frog  pressure.  It  differs  from 
Mr.  Coleman's  by  having  the  frog-bar  separated  from 
the  shoe  and  suspended  by  a  leathern  sole — the  object  of 
which  is  also  for  tender  and  sore-footed  horses. 

Mr.  Percival's  sandal,  as  originally  made,  consisted  of 
a  shoe  and  several  web  bandages,  with  buckles  attached, 
by  which  means  it  was  secured  to  the  foot.  For  many 
years  it  was  applied  in  this  manner,  and  supposed  to  be 
as  perfect  in  itself  as  man  was  capable  of  making  it. 
More  recently,  however,  Mr.  Percival  conceiving  an  idea 
of  its  application  by  means  of  India-rubber  bands,  com- 
menced a  series  of  experiments  which  resulted  in  the 
adoption  of  an  endless  India-rubber  band.  This  was  an 
improvement  at  once  simple  and  much  to  be  desired, 
rendering  its  application  more  firm,  and  less  liable  to  be- 
come deranged.  This  sandal  is  not  intended  for  general 
purposes,  but  only  to  supply  the  place  of  a  lost  shoe  on 
the  road,  it  being  readily  applied,  and  affording  equal 
protection  to  the  foot. 

Mr.  Goodwin,  of  London,  invented  a  shoo  which  has 
been  much  extolled.  This  shoe  is  concave  on  the  ground 
surface — supposed  to  have  a  greater  effect  in  getting 
a  firm  foothold  —  the  upper  surface  being  flat,  ex- 
cept at  the  heels,  which  are  slightly  beveled  outward* 


SHOEING.  1 45 

to  facilitate  the  expansive  tendency  of  the  feet.  This 
principle,  as  far  as  the  bearing  surface  is  concerned,  1 
believe  to  be  the  best  plan  yet  discovered  for  expanding 
contracted  feet,  having  witnessed  the  beneficial  elfects 
of  its  application  in  a  large  number  of  cases  always  with 
advantage.  Great  care  must  be  taken  that  the  bevel  is 
little  more  than  a  level  bearing,  as  it  would  do  much 
mischief  if  beveled  sufficiently  to  force  the  heels. 

PREPARING    THE    FOOT. 

The  subject  of  paring  has  not  escaped  the  fatality 
which  seems  to  have  attended  every  matter  connected 
with  the  foot.  The  most  opposite  and  contradictory 
opinions  have  been  expressed  regarding  it.  Where  such 
extremes  exist,  a  line  drawn  between  the  two  is  usually 
the  most  correct.  We  will  therefore  assume  that  position. 
In  a  state  of  nature  (and  we  must  take  her  as  our  guide) 
the  growth  of  the  hoof  is  about  equal  to  its  wear.  When 
the  shoe  is  upon  it  this  wear  is  prevented.  Our  object, 
then,  in  paring  the  foot  is  to  make  the  removal  of  the 
hoof  equal  to  the  growth  of  the  foot.  Where  this  prin- 
ciple is  not  observed,  we  see  the  effects  of  not  paring  in 
some  horses  whose  shoes  are  allowed  to  remain  on  the 
feet  for  some  months  without  being  removed — the  crust 
becomes  unusually  long,  the  sole  thick,  the  animal  trip- 
ping at  every  step.  These  cases  prove  the  necessity  of 
proper  paring  as  a  substitute  for  the  natural  wear  of  the 
hoof  when  unshod.  In  preparing  the  foot  for  the  shoe, 
care  should  be  taken  to  remove  all  the  old  stubs,  the 
crust  should  be  lowered  from  the  toe  to  the  heel  with 
the  rasp,  and  the  sole  should  then  be  carefully  pared 
with  the  drawing-knife.  The  bars  and  the  frog  require  to 
be  trimmed  out,  removing    only  ragged    or  loose  por- 


146  SHOEING-. 

tions,  or  such  parts  as  may  conceal  dirt  or  other  matter 
producing  unhealthy  action. 

APPLICATION    OF    THE    SHOE. 

In  applying  the  shoe  to  the  foot  it  should  not  he  set 
hack  half  or  three  quarters  of  an  inch  from  the  toe — ■ 
the  projecting  parts  of  the  wall  cut  away  as  is  usually 
the  custom.  The  shoe  should  be  earned  fully  to  the 
outei  margin  of  the  wall.  Thus  we  preserve  the  wall 
entire,  giving  its  full  hearing  surface  for  the  shoe,  pre- 
serving the  wall  uninjured.  By  removing  any  por- 
tion of  the  crust  it  is  weakened  in  exact  proportion  as  it 
is  cut  away,  reducing  the  space  for  driving  the  nails, 
and  increasing  the  danger  of  pricking ;  or,  what  is  as 
bad,  driving  the  nails  too  close,  to  say  nothing  of  the 
change  from  the  natural  form  of  the  foot.  It  is  these 
abuses  which  compel  us  to  regard  shoeing  the  great 
evil  of  his  domestication.  The  nails  should  be  properly 
] jointed,  and  not  driven  too  high  up — -care  should  be 
taken  to  have  them  as  regular  as  possible.  Three 
nails  on  the  inside  and  four  on  the  outside  are  usu- 
ally all  that  are  required  for  any  purpose.  Clips,  if  used 
at  all,  should  be  small,  otherwise  they  are  the  frequent 
cause  of  an  obscure  lameness,  which  is  very  difficult  to 
manage.  The  mischief  is  done  by  the  horn  in  its  down- 
ward growth  meeting  with  the  resistance  which  the  clip 
offers,  hence  the  horn  is  turned  inward  upv,n  the  inside 
toe,  causing  pressure  upon  the  sensitive  lanrina?  and  cof- 
fin-bone, causing  inflammation,  and,  from  pressure,  the 
bone  is  absorbed  at  the  toe,  while  the  soft  tissues  under- 
go other  permanent  alterations  of  structure,  alike  de- 
structive of  the  animal's  usefulness. 


SHOEING.  1±' 


INTERFERING. 


Our  first  object  is  to  ascertain,  if  possible,  the  cause 
of  interfering,  and  the  part  which  strikes,  whether  the 
shoe  or  the  foot.  Many  horses  strike  from  weakness,  or 
long  continued  exertion.  Particularly  is  this  the  case  in 
young  animals.  Others  cut  from  faulty  conformation  of 
the  limbs — the  toes  turning  in  or  out  too  much  is  a  fre- 
quent cause.  By  applying  chalk  to  the  foot  which  cuts, 
we  readily  discover  the  precise  part  of  the  foot  which 
does  the  injury.  Having  satisfied  ourselves  of  this,  we 
must  for  once  deviate  from  our  rule  in  shoeing,  by  mak- 
ing the  shoe  straight  on  its  edge  at  the  part  indicated, 
cutting  down  the  crust  level  with  it.  By  this  means  the 
feet  frequently  work  clear.  Where  this  does  not  succeed, 
the  shoe  should  be  widened  in  the  web  at  the  point  where 
the  foot  strikes,  but  not  thickened,  as  is  too  often  done ; 
the  natural  bearing  of  the  foot  must  be  preserved. 
Should  this,  too,  fail,  there  is  no  resort  but  a  strip  of 
India-rubber,  placed  between  the  shoe  and  the  foot, 
projecting  at  least  a  quarter  of  an  inch  beyond  the  shoe. 
This  being  soft  and  elastic,  it  will  not  bruise  the  part 
struck  by  the  shoe  or  foot,  giving  it  time  to  heal,  and 
cause  the  animal  to  work  clear  in  traveling.  Either  one 
of  these  plans  is  successful,  if  properly  applied,  in  a 
majority  of  cases ;  yet  all  are  unsuccessful  in  a  few 
cases  of  natural  deformity,  or  faulty  conformation  in 
the  limbs. 

O VERRE AC  HING. 

Many  persons  regard  overreaching  as  an  indication  of 
a  bad  horse,  yet  we  are  compelled  to  recognize  it  as  a 
fault  in  some  of  the  best.  It  frequently  occurs  with 
young  horses,  on  a  moderate  gait,  and  disappears  alto- 
gether on  increasing  the  speed  of  the  animal.     It  arises 


148  SHOEING. 

from  too  great  activity  of  the  hind-legs,  the  fore  ones 
not  being  able  to  get  out  of  the  way  in  time.  This 
habit  is  often  brought  on  by  too  heavy  shoeing  in  front, 
and  too  light  shoeing  behind.  By  reversing  this  princi- 
ple I  have  found  it  to  answer  an  excellent  purpose. 
Where  this  habit  is  allowed  to  go  unchecked,  the  heels 
often  become  bruised,  and  in  some  instances  the  shoea 
are  torn  off  from  the  front-feet,  causing  much  mischief 
to  arise  in  consequence.  This  habit,  too,  like  interfer- 
ing, occurs  in  young  horses  after  severe  driving,  from 
becoming  leg-weary,  a  circumstance  which  should  be 
carefully  avoided,  as  habits  are  easily  formed,  but  often 
most  difficult  to  be  got  rid  of.  The  innervation  of  the 
horse's  feet  depends  very  much  upon  careful  and  skillful 
application  of  the  shoe,  independently  of  its  being  con- 
structed on  correct  principles.  Many  horses  with  very 
bad  feet  are  enabled  to  go  sound  for  many  years  by 
careful  shoeing,  while  a  bungling  hand  would  render  the 
same  animal  unlit  for  service  in  a  single  shoeing.  It 
requires  considerable  tact  to  fit  a  shoe  properly  on  a  bad 
or  weak  foot,  so  as  to  protect  it  from  injury. 

STOPPING    THE    FEET. 

The  hoofs  of  horses  standing  upon  plank  floors  soon 
become  excessively  dry  and  hard,  unless  artificial  means 
are  resorted  to  to  prevent  it ;  and  if  shod  in  this  state, 
it  is  almost  impossible  for  the  smith  to  pare  them.  The 
opponents  of  stopping,  and  there  are  a  few,  offer  as  an 
objection  that  it  sometimes  tends  to  produce  thrush. 
This  I  do  not  pretend  to  deny  where  such  stopping  as 
cow-dung  is  resorted  to,  but  it  does  not  occur  when  lin- 
seed-meal is  used  for  that  purpose.  This  certainly  is  the 
best  and  cleanest  application,  and  can  be  used  several 
times  by  softening  with  a  little  water,    To  keep  the  soles 


shoeing.  149 

moist  and  healthy,  the  feet  should  be  stopped  every  night 
in  the  summer,  and  every  third  night  in  winter.  If  the 
crust  is  brittle,  as  is  frequently  the  case,  it  is  a  good 
plan  to  apply  a  mixture  of  tar,  lard,  and  turpentine, 
equal  parts,  to  the  hoof. 

SHOEING  HOUSES  FOE  COENS. 

Care  must  be  taken  that  the  corn  be  well  cut  out,  and 
a  little  butter  of  antimony  or  muriatic  acid  applied  to 
the  part  affected.  The  hoof  from  the  corn  backward 
must  be  cut  away  so  that  no  part  of  the  heel  strikes  the 
shoe,  avoiding  pressure,  and  relieving  the  part  from 
unnecessary  concussion.  A  horse  thus  shod,  no  matter 
how  bad  his  corns  may  be,  will  travel  sound,  and  with 
perfect  ease,  that  otherwise  shod  would  be  decidedly 
lame. 

SHOEING    FOR    QUARTER-CRACK. 

To  remedy  this  evil  requires  care  and  judgment.  A 
horse  should  be  shod  upon  the  same  principle  pre- 
cisely as  for  corns — a  bar-shoe,  often  recommended,  is 
unnecessary.  Properly  shod,  there  will  be  but  little 
trouble  in  growing  out  a  sound  hoof.  The  least  pres- 
sure upon  the  heel  of  the  shoe  will  be  sufficient  to  pre- 
vent the  hoof  from  growing  down,  and  thus  defeat  any 
efforts  which  may  be  made  toward  remedying  the  in- 
jury. So  soon  as  three  eighths  or  half  an  inch  of  new 
horn  has  grown  down,  the  roof  should  be  burned  with 
a  red-hot  iron  just  above  the  crack,  at  right  angles  with 
it,  which  will  prevent  its  breaking  up  anew.  A  little 
tar  or  hoof  ointment  should  be  kept  upon  the  part,  which 
will  protect  it  from  dirt,  and  assist  in  hastening  the 
growth  of  the  new  horn,  usually  requiring  from  six  to 
nine  months  for  the  crack  to  grow  out. 


DISEASES    OF   THE    HOESK 


INFLAMMATION, 

From  Inflammo,  to  burn,  is  one  of  the  most  common 
forms  of  disease  presented  to  the  Veterinary  Surgeon, 
and  regarding  which  many  erroneous  opinions  have  pre- 
vailed, in  consequence  of  which  much  injury  and  often 
serious  consequences  have  resulted.  Sound  medical 
practice  must  be  based  upon  sound  medical  principles. 
A  correct  understanding  of  the  term  inflammation  will 
assist  us  very  materially  in  understanding  the  pathology 
of  diseases  in  their  most  complicated  forms.  A  few 
years  since,  every  form  of  disease  occurring  in  our  do- 
mestic animals  was  regarded  and  treated  as  some  form 
of  inflammation ;  purging  and  bleeding  were  the  order 
of  the  day.  How  different  the  practice  of  the  present 
time ! 

The  manner  in  which  inflammation  has  been  written 
upon  has  made  it  a  subject  perfectly  bewildering  to  the 
general  reader,  and  from  its  being  associated  with  every 
thing  in  actual  practice,  no  idea  of  a  very  definite  kind 
with  regard  to  it  will  for  a  long  time  occur  to  his  mind. 
With  a  view  to  overcome  this  difficulty,  we  will  give  the 
most  simple  definition  of  the  term  inflammation.  It  is, 
"  An  unnatural  or  perverted  action  of  and  in  the  capillary 
blood-vessels  of  a  part ;  attended  with  redness,  throb* 


DISEASES   OF   THE    HORSE.  Hoi 

bing,  swelling,  pain,  heat  and  disorder  of  function,  witli 
change  in  both  its  fluid  and  solid  constituents,  as  well 
as  with  more  or  less  general  disturbance  of  the  system." 
The  extent  to  which  structures  in  a  state  of  inflammation 
will  swell,  varies  considerably,  depending  upon  the  vital 
and  physical  characters  of  the  tissues  involved.  Muscu- 
lar tissue  becomes  very  much  swollen,  while,  on  the  other 
hand,  horny  and  cartilaginous  tissues  swell  but  little,  in 
consequence  of  their  low  state  of  vitality.  It  must  be 
remembered  that  it  requires  an  assemblage  of  the  above 
conditions  to  constitute  inflammation.  Swelling,  pain, 
heat,  or  redness  alone  do  not  constitute  that  condition, 
as  either  may  occur  from  causes  independent  of  any  in- 
flammatory action  whatever. 

We  now  feel  prepared  to  proceed  with  our  remarks 
upon  the  various  diseases  with  which  the  horse  is  afflict- 
ed, with  a  better  understanding  regarding  the  interest 
of  our  readers,  than  we  would  have  done  had  we  passed 
this  subject  by  unnoticed. 

Capillaries. — The  blood  is  the  pabulum  from  whence 
is  elaborated  the  entire  organism,  as  well  as  the  source 
from  whence  are  derived  all  the  various  secretions  and  ex- 
cretions of  the  system;  but  in  order  that  these  purposes 
may  be  accomplished,  it  is  necessary  for  the  fluid  in 
question  to  be  circulated  through,  or  its  materials 
brought  in  contact  with,  every  tissue  requiring  fresh  nu- 
trition, as  well  as  through  the  various  secretory  and 
excretory  organs.  To  effectually  accomplish  this,  we 
rind  a  class  of  structures  set  apart  and  admirably  adapt- 
ed in  every  way  to  fulfill  the  purposes  required.  The 
first  of  these  is  the  heart  itself;  next  come  the  large 
blood  conduits,  the  arteries,  which  spring  from  the  former, 
as  the  tree  springs  from  the  earth ;  while  the  arteries, 
again,  terminate  in  a   series  of  vessels   of  wonderful 


252  DISEASES    OP  THE   HOUSE. 

minuteness,  just  as  the  "boughs  of  a  tree  terminate  in  the 
twigs.  These  minute  vessels  are  denominated  capillaries. 
These  capillaries  ramify,  and  are  placed  in  the  most  in- 
timate relation  with  every  tissue  throughout  the  body 
within  whose  substance  reproduction  and  decay  are  in 
perpetual  operation,  as  well  as  with  those  organs  whose 
duty  it  is  to  furnish  or  separate  the  secretions  and  ex- 
cretions already  referred  to.  Each  tissue  selects  from 
the  common  pabulum — the  blood — thus  sent  to  it,  the 
peculiar  principle  it  requires  to  support  its  own  life  and 
integrity. 

The  usual  terminations  of  inflammation  are  resolution, 
mortification,  suppuration,  ulceration,  hemorrhage,  ef- 
fusion, hepatization,  and  ossification.  By  resolution  is 
meant  the  state  of  the  tissues  after  their  recovery  from 
the  effects  of  inflammation. 

Mortification  is  loss  of  vitality  or  death  of  the  tissues 
involved. 

Suppuration — A  collection  of  purulent  matter,  which 
receives  the  name  of  abscess. 

Ulceration — A  purulent  solution  of  continuity  of  the 
soft  parts  arising  from  loss  of  substance. 

Hemorrhage  occurs  as  a  direct  or  indirect  consequence 
of  inflammation,  from  ulceration  penetrating  through 
the  coats  of  an  artery. 

Effusion — An  exudation  of  serum,  w atery  accumula- 
tions, as  in  dropsy. 

Hepatization — Conversion  of  a  texture  into  a  sub- 
stance like  liver. 

Ossification — Formation  of  bone  —  change  of  soft 
structures  into  bony  ones. 

The  account  we  give  is  necessarily  brief,  but  we  trust 
it  is  sufficient  to  furnish  the  reader  with  a  clear  concep- 


DISEASES   OP   TIIE   HORSE.  153 

tion  of  the  matter  in  hand,  and  in  turn  enable  him  to 
clearly  comprehend  that  which  is  to  follow. 

DISEASES  OF  THE  MOUTH-LAMPASS. 
All  young  animals,  during  the  period  of  dentition, 
have  a  fullness  or  swelling  of  the  gums  and  bars,  or  roof 
of  the  mouth.  In  many  colts  it  occasions  but  little  or 
no  inconvenience,  while  in  others  the  pain  is  so  great  as 
to  interfere  with  their  feeding.  When  this  condition 
exists,  do  not  resort  to  the  barbarous  practice  of  burning 
with  a  red-hot  iron,  but  act  humanely.  Lance  the  bars 
with  your  pocket-knife,  if  you  have  nothing  better,  as 
your  family  physician  would  lance  the  gums  of  your 
child  under  similar  circumstances,  and  in  a  few  days  the 
animal  will  feed  as  usual. 

BAGS,  OB  WASHERS. 
These  are  soft,  paffy  swellings  of  the  lining  membrane 
of  the  mouth,  caused  by  the  bit  bruising  the  parts  in 
reining.  If  inconvenient  to  the  animal,  they  may  be  re- 
moved by  cutting  off  a  portion  of  the  swollen  parts  with 
a  pair  of  scissors  or  a  knife,  after  which  apply  a  little 
alum- water,  or  equal  parts  of  tincture  of  myrrh  and 
water,  to  the  wound  two  or  three  times  a  day. 

SORE    MOUTH. 

This  occurs  from  the  same  causes,  and  is  situated 
usually  at  the  angles  of  the  mouth.  Equal  parts  of 
tincture  of  myrrh,  tincture  of  aloes,  and  water  is  the 
best  appli cation  we  can  make. 

UNEVEN-    TEETH. 
The  molar  teeth  of  the  horse  very  frequently  become 
sharp  and  irregular,  interfering  with  mastication  to  such 
an  extent  as  to  cause  the  digestive  organs  to  become 


154  DISEASES   OF  TIIE   HORSE. 

impaired,  giving  rise  to  an  unhealthy  condition  of  the 
system.  At  times  the  insides  of  the  cheeks  become  lace- 
rated by  their  sharp  edges,  causing  them  to  become 
tumid  and  sore.  These  cases  can  only  be  remedied  by 
the  use  of  the  horse-rasp,  an  instrument  made  for  the 
purpose. 

WOLF-TEETH. 

These  are  two  small  teeth  which  make  their  appear- 
ance immediately  in  front  of  the  upper  molar  teeth,  in 
all  colts  at  some  period  from  the  first  to  the  fifth  year. 
It  is  supposed  by  very  many  horsemen  that  they  exert  an 
evil  influence  over  the  eyes  of  the  horse.  My  experience 
does  not  prove  the  fact,  and  I  cannot  reconcile  my  mind 
to  believe  that  they,  natural  teeth,  should  be  placed  in 
the  mouths  of  all  colts,  if  they  were  injurious  to  the  eyes 
or  any  other  organs  of  the  body.  If  you  want  them  re- 
moved, the  best  plan  is  to  extract  them  with  a  pair  of 
dentist's  forceps.  In  knocking  them  out,  the  roots  are 
frequently  left  behind,  and  of  course  your  object  is  not 
accomplished. 

CARIES   OP    THE    TEETH. 

Caries,  or  decay  of  the  teeth  of  horses,  is  a  disease  of 
frequent  occurrence.  The  silence  of  veterinary  writers 
upon  the  subject  has  caused  it  to  be  overlooked  by  those 
having  the  care  of  that  useful  animal,  and  the  symptoms 
in  consequence  have  been  confounded  with  those  of  other 
diseases. 

Symptoms. —  Occasionally  we  have  a  fetid  breath, 
fetid  discharge  from  one  nostril,  a  wheezing  in  the  head, 
food  improperly  masticated,  passing  away  undigested, 
quidding,  drowsing,  hide-bound,  staring  coat,  tucked- 
up  belly,  tossing  the  head,  stopping  short  on  the  road, 
shaking  his  head  and  starting  on  again,  and  at  timea 


DISEASES    OF  THE    HOESE*  155 

becoming  almost  unmanageable.  These  symptoms  do  not 
all  occur  in  the  same  animal ;  one  appearing  drowsy, 
requiring  the  whip  to  urge  him  on,  while  another,  at 
times,  is  wild  and  frantic  with  pain,  taking  the  hit,  and 
"becoming  troublesome  to  manage,  occasionally  running 
away.  Some  of  those  symptoms  occur  in  other  diseases ; 
but  we  should  not  overlook  the  teeth  in  our  examina- 
tion when  any  of  the  above  symptoms  appear.  The  only- 
remedy  is  the  extraction  of  the  diseased  teeth, 

DISTEMPEK. 

All  catarrhal  affections  are  classed  under  one  general 
head,  namely,  distemper,  by  horse-owners  generally ; 
a  common  cold,  sore  throat,  influenza,  bronchitis,  and 
several  others  are  regarded  as  distempers.  We  will  en- 
deavor to  make  the  distinction  in  such  a  manner  that 
each  form  of  disease  may  be  readily  discovered,  and  the 
proper  remedies  applied.  Distemper,  as  we  should  un- 
derstand it,  is  the  mildest  form  of  catarrhal  affections. 
A  common  cold,  for  instance,  is  an  inflammation  of  the 
lining  membrane  of  the  nose,  causing  a  secretion  of  mu- 
cus, which  is  more  or  less  abundantly  discharged  from 
the  nostrils  ;  in  severe  cases  the  inflammation  extends 
down  the  trachea^  or  windpipe,  to  the  bronchial  tubes, 
and  sometimes  to  the  lungs,  producing  diseases  which 
are  classed  under  different  heads,  and  often  requiring 
different  treatment. 

SOSE-THKOAT. 

This  is  usually  one  of  the  first  indications  of  catarrh, 
and  when  confined  to  that  portion  of  the  throat  at  the 
angle  of  the  jaws,  it  is  termed  laryngitis.  The  symptoms 
of  this  disease  are  well  marked :  the  head  is  stiff,  and  if 
the  throat  is  rubbed  or  pressed  upon,  excites  coughing ; 


256  DISEASES    OF  THE    HOESE. 

the  animal  manifests  difficulty  in  swallowing,  and  fre* 
quently  considerable  saliva  collects  in  the  mouth. 

Treatment. — Apply  strong  mustard  made  into  a  paste 
with  vinegar,  to  the  throat,  and  rub  it  well  in  ;  or,  lin- 
seed oil  two  parts,  with  spirits  of  hartshorn  one  part, 
will  answer  a  good  purpose.  Give  upon  the  tongue  half 
a  tea-spoonful  of  powdered  saltpetre  twice  a  day. 

STEANGLES. 

This  is  a  more  severe  form  of  laryngitis,  involving  the 
glands  of  the  throat,  causing  very  great  swelling,  which 
often  threatens  suffocation  ;  the  respiration  becomes  dis- 
turbed, the  breathing  laborious,  and  can  be  heard  at  a 
considerable  distance ;  the  animal  sweats  from  his  con- 
vulsive efforts  to  breathe,  and,  if  not  relieved,  dies  a  vio- 
lent death.  Here  the  aid  of  the  qualified  veterinary 
surgeon  is  absolutely  required,  as  there  are  few  persons 
competent  to  perform  the  operation  of  tracheotomy,  that 
is,  opening  the  windpipe  to  admit  air  into  the  lungs : 
this,  early  performed,  frequently  saves  the  animal's  life. 

Treatment. — Poultice  the  throat  well  with  flax-seed 
meal,  steam  the  nostrils  two  or  three  times  a  day ;  and 
as  soon  as  the  swelling  under  the  jaws  becomes  soft, 
it  should  be  lanced.  When  relief  is  once  obtained,  the 
further  treatment  of  these  eases  is  the  same  as  for  ordi- 
nary sore-throat. 

INFLUENZA. 

Spring  and  fall  are  the  seasons  most  productive  of  epi- 
demic catarrh.  One  year  it  assumes  a  mild  form,  the 
next,  perhaps,  a  most  malignant  one.  Influenza  is  known 
to  horsemen  under  the  common  name  of  pink-eye  dis- 
temper. 

Symptoms. — These  vary  very  considerably  in  different 
animals.     The  usual   or  leading  symptoms   are:    Slight 


DISEASES   OP  THE   HOKSE,  157 

watery  or  thin  raucous  discbarges  from  the  nose,  eyelids 
presenting  a  reddish  or  orange-red  appearance,  matter 
collects  in  the  corners  of  the  eyes,  pulse  feeble,  great 
debility,  as  shown  by  the  quick,  feeble  action  of  the  heart 
— a  symptom  rarely  absent — membrane  of  nose  much  red; 
dened,  sore-throat  and  cough :  occasionally  the  feet  be- 
come fevered  as  in  founder,  causing  much  stiffness,  which 
may  be  easily  mistaken  for  that  disease. 

Treatment. — This  being  a  typhoid  disease,  requires  a 
sustaining  treatment,  or  our  success  will  be  very  doubt- 
ful. In  the  early  stage  of  the  disease,  give,  the  first 
two  days,  ten  drops  of  tincture  of  aconite,  or  bryona, 
in  a  little  water,  every  six  hours ;  after  which  give  in  a 
pail  of  water,  to  drink  once  a  day,  one  ounce  of  spirits 
of  nitre,  or  two  drachms  of  extract  of  belladonna ;  and 
give  in  the  feed,  three  times  a  day,  one  of  the  following 
powders :  Gentian  root,  saltpetre,  and  anise-seed,  of  each 
one  oz. — sulphate  of  quinine,  one  drachm ;  mix  and 
divide  into  eight  powders ;  or,  powdered  cinchona  and 
powdered  quassia,  of  each  2  oz. ;  powdered  anise-seed,  1 
ounce ;  mix  and  divide  into  four  powders.  The  throat 
should  be  bathed  in  mustard  and  vinegar,  or  with  linseed 
oil  3  oz.,  spirits  of  hartshorn  1  oz.,  mixed  together.  No 
hay  or  corn  should  be  given,  but  scalded  oats  and  wheat 
bran,  with  linseed  tea  or  oatmeal  gruel,  should  consti- 
tute the  diet ;  a  few  carrots  would  be  very  good,  and 
above  all,  good  nursing  is  very  desirable. 

BRONCHITIS. 

This  is  an  inflammation  of  the  bronchial  tubes,  as  its 
name  implies,  the  air-tubes  of  the  lungs.  It  is  usually 
preceded  by  a  shivering  fit,  the  mouth  is  hot  and  full  of 
saliva,  the  throat  is  sore,  and  if  pressed  upon  excites  a 
Dainful  cough,  discharge  from  the  nose,  appetite  lost, 


153  DISEASES   OP  THE   HORSE. 

pulse  quick,  and  respiration  labored,  eyelids  and  nos- 
trils reddened ;  on  applying  the  ear  to  the  side,  a  gurg- 
ling sound  is  heard* 

Treatment. — Give  the  following  ball  in  the  early 
stage  of  the  disease  :  Nitrate  of  potassa,  pulverized  digi- 
talis, and  tartrate  of  antimony,  of  each  half  a  drachm, 
molasses  sufficient  to  make  the  ball,  If  the  fever  is  not 
broken  in  twelve  hours,  repeat  the  ball.  As  soon  as  the 
desired  object  is  obtained,  give  one  of  the  following 
powders  twice  a  day,  in  a  sloppy  mash :  Nitrate  of 
potassa  one  and  a  half  ounces,  nitrate  of  soda  six  ounces, 
divide  into  six  powders ;  or  give  the  following  :  Extract 
of  belladonna  1  drachm,  spirits  of  nitre  1  oz.,  solution 
of  acetate  of  ammonia  4  oz.,  in  half  a  pint  of  water,  as  a 
drench.  The  throat  and  sides  should  be  blistered  ;  the 
ordinary  fly  blister  made  thin  with  turpentine  is  very 
good,  or  mustard  mixed  with  equal  parts  of  water  and 
spirits  of  hartshorn.  Either  of  the  above,  when  used, 
should  be  well  rubbed  in  with  the  hand. 

NASAL    GLEET. 

This  is  a  chronic  discharge,  from  one  or  both  nostrils, 
of  a  whitish  muco-purulent  matter,  the  result  usually 
of  neglected  catarrh.  The  general  health  of  the  animal 
does  not  seem  to  suffer ;  he  looks  well,  feeds  well,  and 
works  well ;  yet  we  have  this  discharge,  which  is  caused 
by  weakness  in  the  secretory  vessels  of  the  lining  mem- 
brane of  the  nose.  The  successful  treatment  in  all  cases 
where  this  disorder  has  existed,  has  been  on  the  tonic  prin- 
ciple ;  bleeding  and  purging  are  positively  injurious,, 
Give  one  of  the  following  powders  night  and  morning : 
Sesquichloride  of  iron  2  oz.,  powdered  cinnamon  1  oz., 
mix  and  divide  into  four  powders;  or  carbonate  of 
iron,  pulverized  gentian,  and  pulverized  quassia,  of  each 


DISEASES   OF  THE   HORSE.  159 

1  oz.,  divide  into  4  powders  ;  or  dux  vomica  pulverized, 

£  oz.,  linseed  meal,  2  oz.,  divide  into  8  powders.  An- 
other good  preparation  is  muriate  of  barytes,  %  oz., 
linseed  meal,  1  oz.,  divide  into  S  powders. 

PNEUMONIA. 

This  disease  is  known  to  horsemen  as  lung  fever.     It 
is  either  inflammatory  or  congestive,  arising  from  vari- 
ous causes  —  as  high  feeding,  badly-ventilated  stables, 
violent  exercise,  or  sudden  changes  from  heat  to  cold. 
In  the  congestive  stage  there  is  no  pulse  to  be  found, 
and  on  applying  the  ear  to  the  side,  no  sound  is  heard  ; 
cold  sweats  bedew  the  body,* the  respiration  is  labored, 
eyes  wild  in  their  expression,  legs  cold,  the  animal  ap- 
pears dull  and  stupid,  and  with  difficulty  made  to  move  ; 
he  does  not  lie  down.     In  these  cases  medicines  are  not 
required  ;  in  fact,  they  often  do  more  injury  than  good  ; 
the  free  and  speedy  use  of  the  lancet  is  our  only  hope, 
and  a  pure  air  is  of  the  greatest  importance  ;  a  pail  of 
cold  water  should  be  placed  before  the  animal,  but  no 
food  should  be  given  until  the  animal  is  relieved  ;  and 
then  only  mashes  of  wheat  bran.     Under  this  treatment 
he  will  speedily  recover,  or  inflammation  of  the  lungs 
will  be  established.     The  pulse  now  becomes  quick,  the 
mouth  hot,  legs  cold,  head  hanging   in   or  under  the 
manger,  appetite  lost ;  on  applying  the  ear  to  the  side, 
a  crepitating  or  crackling  sound  is  heard  ;  respiration 
quick ;  the  treatment  here  must  be  prompt  and  ener- 
getic ;  blisters  to  the  sides,  such  as  previously  spoken  of, 
must  be  used,  and  give  internally  two  ounces  of  spirits 
of  nitre  in  a  half-pint  of  water  ;  follow  this  in  two  hours 
with  ten   drops  of  tincture   of  aconite  in  water,  to  be 
jriven  every  six  hours  until  relief  is  obtained;  or  give 
instead  one  of  the  following  powders:  Tartrate  of  anti- 


160  DISEASES   OF   THE   HGESE. 

mony,  pulverized  digitalis,  of  each  one  drachm  ;  nitraty 
of  potassa,  one  ounce ;  mix  and  divide  into  eight  pow- 
ders ;  give  one  every  four  hours  upon  the  tongue.  In- 
jections of  soap  and  water  are  very  useful  in  these  cases. 
The  legs  should  be  hand-rubbed,  and  stimulated  with 
mustard  or  cayenne  pepper,  and  then  wrapped  in  wool- 
en bandages  ;  a  pure  atmosphere  and  good  nursing  are 
very  necessary 

PLETJRIST. 

This  is  an  inflammation  of  the  lining  membrane  of  the 
chest  and  covering  of  the  lungs.  The  symptoms  are  s 
Uneasiness,  pawing,  looking  at  the  sides,  pulse  quick, 
pain  on  pressure  over  the  ribs,  body  hot,  lying  down 
but  rising  quickly.  The  same  treatment  as  in  inflamma- 
tion of  the  lungs  is  called  for ;  but  under  no  circum- 
stances should  bleeding  be  resorted  to.  These  cases  are 
Very  apt  to  terminate  in  hydro thorax,  or 

DROPSY  OE  THE  CHEST. 
Symptoms. — Breathing  short  and  quick,  legs  strad- 
dling, pulse  small  and  quick;  breast,  belly,  and  sheath 
swell,  and  leave  the  mark  of  the  finger  when  pressed 
upon  ;  the  animal  stands  until  he  dies.  The  treatment 
of  this  disease,  as  a  general  thing,  is  not  very  satisfac- 
tory. The  iodide  of  potassa,  in  half-drachm  doses,  three 
times  a  day,  has  proved  the  most  useful  medicine  in 
such  cases,  in  connection  with  setons  in  the  breast  and 
sides. 

BROKEN  WIND,  OR   HEAVES, 

This  disease  is  well  known  to  horsemen  ;  so  we  will 
content  ourselves  merely  by  giving  the  most  successful 
remedies,  which,  fur  the  most  part,  are  only  palliative: 
Divide  half  an  ounce  of  pulverized  digitalis  in  twenty 


DISEASES    OF   THE   liOKSE.  1G1 

parts,  and  give  one  part  night  and  morning  in  the  feed 
until  gone ;  this  Avill  usually  allay  all  signs  of  the  dis- 
ease in  two  weeks.  Or,  take  assafcetida,  two  drachms  ; 
camphor,  one  drachm  ;  mix  and  give  every  other  night 
for  a  week. 

INFLAMMATION    OF    THE    BOWELS. 

This  disease  may  appear  suddenly,  or  it  may  "be  slow 
in  coming  on.  The  symptoms  resemble  those  of  colic, 
with  which  disease  it  is  often  confounded.  The  pulse  is 
our  certain  guide  in  determining  the  character  of  the 
disease :  when  that  is  full  and  natural,  or  nearly  so, 
there  is  no  inflammation  ;  if  full,  strong,  and  quick, 
there  is  inflammation ;  other  symptoms  corresponding, 
there  is  no  difficulty  in  determining  the  case.  In  colic, 
the  symptoms  of  pain  are  intermittent ;  in  inflammation 
of  the  bowels,  there  are  no  intermissions.  Other  symp- 
toms which  are  present  in  both  diseases  are  pawing, 
kicking  the  belly,  rolling  and  tumbling  about,  sweating, 
haggard  expression  of  countenance,  looking  at  his  sides, 
etc. ;  in  colic,  the  legs  usually  are  warm ;  in  inflammation 
of  bowels,  they  are  cold. 

Treatment. — Bleed  freely  from  the  neck-vein,  and  give 
ten  drops  tincture  of  aconite  every  three  hours ;  apply 
blankets  saturated  with  hot  water  to  the  entire  body, 
and  keep  it  up  for  two  hours ;  then  remove  the  wet  ones 
and  replace  them  with  dry  ones,  well  secured  with  a 
body-girth.  Injections  of  tobacco-smoke  are  very  useful 
in  these  cases ;  wrhen  not  convenient,  soap  and  water 
will  answer  the  purpose.  No  food  of  any  kind  should 
be  given  for  at  least  forty-eight  hours. 

DIAKHHEA. 

The  cause  of  this  disease  is  exposure  to  cold,  ove^ 


IG2  DISEASES    OF   THE   HORSE. 

exertioD,  change  of  water,  over-doses  of  cathartic  medi- 
cine, etc. 

Treatment. — Give  one  of  the  following  powders  every 
six  hours  until  the  bowels  are  checked :  Powdered  opi- 
um, one  drachm ;  powdered  catechu,  two  drachms ; 
prepared  chalk,  one  ounce;  mix  and  divide  into  four 
powders. 

COLIC. 

This  disease — known  also  as  gripes,  cramp,  and  fret — 
is  either  spasmodic  or  flatulent.  Spasmodic  colic  is  a 
spasmodic  contraction  of  the  muscular  coats  of  the  in- 
testines, causing  griping  pains,  etc.,  (see  inflammation 
of  bowels.)  Flatulent  colic  is  an  accumulation  of  gas 
in  the  stomach  and  intestines,  generated  by  fermenta- 
tion in  the  stomach,  causing  swelling  of  the  abdomen, 
and  sometimes  rupture  of  the  stomach. 

Treatment. — For  spasmodic  colic,  give  one  ounce  tinc- 
ture opium  and  one  ounce  sulphuric  ether  in  half  a  pint 
of  water ;  this  should  be  repeated  in  half  an  hour  if  re- 
lief is  not  obtained.  Or,  give  the  following :  Tincture 
of  opium,  one  ounce  ;  aromatic  spirits  of  ammonia,  half 
an  ounce  ;  extract  of  belladonna,  one  drachm  ;  water,  one 
pint ;  mix.  In  flatulent  colic  give  chlorate  of  potash,  one 
half  ounce  ;  sulphuric  ether,  one  half  ounce ;  tincture  of 
aloes,  three  ounces  ;  water,  one  pint ;  mix  and  drench. 

"WORMS. 

Thousands  of  animals  die  annually  from  the  ravages 
of  these  pests,  without  the  true  cause  being  suspected ; 
especially  is  this  the  case  in  the  young  of  the  mare,  cow, 
sheep,  and  pig.  Many  varieties  of  these  parasites  belong 
to  our  domestic  animals  which  have  not  been  mentioned 
by  veterinary  writers ;  they  are  found  in  every  tissue 
of  the  body,   even  to  the  blood.     The  symptoms  of 


DISEASES    OF   THE   HOESE.  163 

worms  have  been  but  very  imperfectly  described  by 
■writers  upon  the  subject.  In  an  experience  of  many 
years,  I  have  observed  the  following  symptoms,  but  no: 
all  in  the  same  animal.  Each  variety  of  worm  has  its 
characteristic  symptoms,  namely:  In  bots,  we  rarely 
have  loss  of  condition,  but,  when  the  bots  become  trou- 
blesome, colicky  pains,  gasping,  quickened  respiration, 
staring  or  haggard  expression  of  the  eye,  with  a  strong 
tendency  to  inflammation  of  the  bowels  will  be  observed. 
Bots  are  rarely  troublesome  except  when  passing  away 
in  their  regular  manner,  which  occurs  from  May  to  Au- 
gust in  each  year.  In  most  other  varieties  of  worms  the 
symptoms  are  debility,  feebleness,  sluggish  movements, 
emaciation,  staring  coat,  hide-bound,  and  skin  covered 
with  scurvy  blotches,  rigidity  of  loins,  small  and  feeble 
but  slightly  accelerated  pulse,  respiration  slow,  tucked- 
up  belly,  a  peculiar,  pallid  appearance  of  the  lining  of 
the  lips,  (a  certain  indication,)  irregular,  capricious,  but 
persistent  appetite,  badly  digested  faeces,  agitation  of 
heart  and  tail ;  and  where  the  fundament  worms  exist, 
a  whitish  or  yellowish- white  substance  will  be  found 
about  the  fundament,  indicated  also  by  rubbing  the 
tail. 

The  treatment  for  worms  has  been  attended  with 
much  uncertainty  heretofore,  and  is,  to  the  present  day, 
with  practitioners  generally.  Those  on  which  most  de- 
pendence has  been  placed  are :  Calomel,  one  half  drachm ; 
tartrate  of  antimony,  one  half  drachm  ;  linseed-meal,  one 
half  ounce  ;  mix  and  give  at  night.  Or,  iron  filings,  two 
drachms  ;  common  salt,  one  half  ounce  ;  powdered  savin, 
one  drachm ;  linseed  meal,  one  half  ounce ;  mix,  give 
every  night  for  a  week.  Or,  assafoetida,  two  drachms  ; 
calomel,  one  and  a  half  drachms  ;  savin,  one  and  a  half 
drachms  ;  oil  male  fern,  thirty  drops  ;  linseed-meal,  two 


164  DISEASES    OF   TIIE   HOESE. 

drachms ;  mix  with  molasses  and  give  at  night.  Or, 
calomel,  one  drachm  ;  powdered  wormwood,  one  ounce  ; 
honey  sufficient  to  make  the  ball ;  give  at  night.  Fol- 
low either  of  the  above  with  the  following  ball :  Barba- 
does  aloes,  one  ounce  ;  pulverized  gentian,  two  drachms ; 
pulverized  ginger,  one  drachm  ;  water  sufficient  to  make 
the  ball.  Another  remedy  highly  recommended  is  the 
following:  Barbadoes  aloes,  six  drachms;  male  fern, 
four  ounces ;  spirits  turpentine,  two  ounces ;  mix  and 
divide  into  six  balls ;   give  one  three  times  a  day. 

KETEIfTIOH    OF    URINE. 

This  is  known  by  frequent  but  unsuccessful  efforts  to 
stale.  In  some  animals  it  arises  from  a  dislike  to  spat- 
ter their  legs  in  voiding  the  water ;  hence  a  horse  will 
frequently  retain  it  in  the  bladder  until  the  litter  is 
shaken  up  under  him,  when  he  will  at  once  relieve  him- 
self. When  the  result  of  spasm  of  the  neck  of  the  blad- 
der, an  instrument  is  used  called  a  catheter,  made  ex- 
pressly for  the  purpose ;  this  is  passed  up  the  urinary 
passage  to  the  bladder,  when  the  water  will  flow  freely 
and  give  instant  relief. 

PROFUSE    STALING. 

The  causes  of  this  disease  are,  the  improper  use  of  diu- 
retic medicines,  as  saltpetre,  rosin,  etc.  Unwholesome 
food  will  sometimes  produce  it.  Treatment :  Give  one 
of  the  following  balls  every  night — powdered  opium  -J 
oz.,  powdered  kino,  1  oz.,  prepared  chalk,  1  oz. ;  mix  with 
molasses  and  make  six  balls. 

STONES    IN    THE    BLADDER. 

These  may  exist  a  long  time  in  the  bladder  before 
any  symptoms  arise  indicating  their  j:>resence.     The  first 


DISEASES    OF  THE   HORSE.  1G5 

symptoms  of  stone  are,  frequent  efforts  to  urinate,  void- 
ing small  quantities  usually  of  a  thick  whitish  color;  as 
the  stones  increase  in  size,  the  symptoms  become  more 
aggravated,  colicky  pains  are  indicated,  rendering  it  diffi- 
cult to  distinguish  the  difference ;  the  animal  paws,  kicks 
at  his  belly,  lies  down,  rolls,  and  gets  up  quickly.  In 
some  cases  these  obstructions  are  dissolved  by  the  ad- 
ministration of  muriatic  acid,  2  dr.,  in  a  pail  of  water 
once  a  day.  "Where  this  fails,  an  operation  for  the  re- 
moval of  the  stone  is  the  only  remedy.  This  is  not  a 
dangerous  operation,  comparatively,  in  the  hands  of  a 
skillful  surgeon. 

QUITTER. 

This  is  a  formation  of  pus  between  the  hoof  and  the 
soft  structures  within;  a  sore  at  the  coronet  or  upper 
part  of  the  foot,  which  at  first  is  a  hard  smooth  tumor, 
soon  becoming  soft,  and  breaks,  discharging  quantities 
of  pus.  Treatment :  Poultice  the  foot  for  several  days  with 
nax-seed  meal.  As  soon  as  the  hoof  becomes  soft,  cut 
away  all  loose  portions,  but  no  more,  and  inject  with  a 
syringe  either  of  the  following  once  a  day :  Chloride  of 
zinc,  2  dr.,  dissolved  in  1  pint  of  water ;  or  sulphate  of 
zinc,  1|  dr.,  dissolved  in  one  pint  of  water;  or  nitrate  of 
silver,  2  dr.,  in  a  pint  of  water;  or  glycerine  may  be 
used  with  advantage.  Before  using  the  wash  have  the 
foot  well  cleaned  with  castile  soap  and  water. 

THRUSH. 

This  is  a  disease  of  the  frog,  causing  a  discharge  of 
matter  from  its  cleft  or  division,  occasionally  causing 
lameness.  The  treatment  is  simple  and  effective  :  Wash 
the  feet  well  with  soap  and  water,  and  sprinkle  a  small 
quantity  of  pulverized  sulphate  of  copper  in  the  cleft, 


1GG  DISEASES    OF   THE  HORSE. 

and  secure  it  by  pressing  a  little  raw  cotton  down  upon 
it  in  such  a  manner  as  to  keep  out  the  dirt.  In  two  or 
three  days  repeat,  if  necessary.  It  rarely  requires  a 
second  dressing. 

CANKER. 

This  is  a  more  aggravated  form  of  thrush,  often  prov- 
ing very  troublesome  to  manage.  It  is  a  continuation 
of  the  thrush  between  the  horny  frog  and  the  internal 
structures  of  the  foot,  causing  separation  between  them. 
Treatment :  Cut  away  all  the  horn  which  has  been  sepa- 
rated from  the  soft  structures  of  the  foot,  and  apply  the  fol- 
lowing ointment:  Take  equal  parts  of  pine  tar  and  lard, 
melt  over  a  slow  fire,  and  add  sulphuric  acid  very  slowly 
until  ebullition  ceases ;  or  use  collodion,  j-  oz.,  castor  oil,  1 
oz. ;  mix  and  apply  to  the  parts.  The  foot  must  be  pro- 
tected from  dirt  by  a  bandage  or  a  leathern  boot. 

SCRATCHES. 

This  disease  is  well  known  to  all  horsemen.  Treat- 
ment :  Wash  the  parts  well  with  castile  soap  and  water, 
and  when  dry  apply  once  a  day  the  collodion  and  castor 
oil  recommended  in  canker ;  or  use  a  saturated  solution 
of  the  bichloride  of  mercury  once  a  week,  but  not  oftener, 
or  mischief  may  arise  in  consequence  of  a  too  free  use 

GKEASS    HEELS. 

This  is  a  white,  offensive,  greasy  discharge  from  the 
heels  of  the  horse;  the  skin  becomes  hot,  tender,  and 
swollen;  the  acrid  character  of  the  discharge  often 
causes  large  portions  of  the  skin  to  slough  away,  leaving 
an  ugly  sore  behind.  Treatment :  Open  the  bowels  with 
the  following  ball :  Barbadoes  aloes,  1  oz.,  pulverized 
gentian  root,  2  dr.,  pulv.  ginger,  1   dr.,  water  sufficient; 


DISEASES   OF  THE    HOUSE.  167 

to  make  the  ball ;  wash  the  parts  well  and  poultice  for 
two  or  three  days  with  the  following:  Flax-seed  meal 
mixed  with  a  solution  of  2  dr.  sulphate  of  zinc  to  a  pint 
of  water,  after  which  keep  clean  and  bathe  frequently 
with  glycerine ;  or  the  solution  of  zinc,  or  a  solution  of 
the  chloride  of  lime  may  be  used ;  or  the  bichloride  of 
mercury  may  be  used  in  inveterate  cases  with  good  re- 
sults, provided  it  be  not  repeated  oftener  than  <mce  a 
week. 

WATER-FARCY. 

Anasarca,  as  it  is  technically  called,  is  of  two  kinds ; 
one  occurring  in  young  animals  from  inflammatory  ac- 
tion, the  other  in  old  horses  from  general  debility.  It  is 
known  by  swelling  of  the  legs,  belly,  sheath,  and  other 
parts.  In  young  animals,  there  is  heat,  and  pain  on  pres- 
sure on  the  swollen  parts ;  in  old  horses,  there  is  no  pain 
on  pressure,  but  the  marks  of  the  fingers  are  left  behind. 
Treatment :  Give  one  of  the  following  powders  night  and 
morning  in  the  feed ;  sulphate  of  iron,  2  oz.,  nitrate  of 
potassa,  1  oz.,  pulverized  gentian,  1  oz.,  pulverized  gin- 
ger, 6  drs.,  anise-seed,  ground,  £  oz. ;  mix  and  divide  into 
8  powders ;  or,  sulphate  of  copper,  nitrate  of  potassa,  and 
pulverized  gentian,  of  each  1  oz. ;  pulverized  ginger,  ^ 
oz.,  anise-seed,  ground,  6  drs. ;  mix  and  divide  into  8 
powders.  Hand-rubbing  and  moderate  exercise  every 
day  are  very  important,  with  a  pure  atmosphere  in  your 
stable, 

FOUNDER. 

This  disease  occurs  generally  in  the  horse  with  hard, 
brittle,  or  contracted  hoofs,  in  consequence  of  their  in- 
ability to  yield  to  the  weight  of  the  animal.  In  this 
condition  they  wait  for  the  exciting  or  immediate  cause 
to    develop    the    disease.       These    causes   are    a   hard 


108  DISEASES    OP   THE    HORSE. 

drive  upon  a  hard  road,  watering  when  warm,  particu- 
larly when  pump  or  spring  water  is  used,  standing  in  a 
draught  of  air,  etc.  Symptoms :  Fore-feet  thrown  for- 
ward resting  upon  the  heels,  weight  of  the  body  thrown 
back  upon  the  hind-legs,  front-feet  hot  and  tender,  pulse 
full  and  quick,  respiration  accelerated;  the  animal  in 
very  severe  cases  seeks  relief  by  lying  down.  Treat- 
ment :  If  the  animal  is  in  full  condition,  bleed  freely  from 
the  feet,  and  give  the  following :  Barbadoes  aloes,  6  dr., 
croton  oil,  6  drops,  pulverized  ginger,  1  dr.,  pulverized 
gentian,  2  dr.,  mix  with  water  in  form  of  a  ball ;  foment 
the  feet  well  with  hot  water,  and  then  poultice  with  flax- 
seed meal  for  several  days ;  give  in  the  water  every  6  hours 
extract  of  belladonna,  1  dr.  Under  this  treatment  the 
worst  cases  usually  recover  in  one  week's  time  if  taken 
in  hand  early. 

POMICED    FEET. 

This  disease  is  known  to  horsemen  as  falling  of  the 
sole,  and  is  the  result  of  neglected  founder.  Careful 
shoeing,  so  as  to  protect  the  sole,  is  all  that  can  be 
done  in  these  cases. 

NAVICTJLAR-JOINT    LAMENESS. 

Coffin-joint  lameness,  as  it  is  commonly  called,  is  one 
of  very  common  occurrence,  and  the  symptoms  often  so 
obscure  as  to  mislead  the  ordinary  observer.  This  dis- 
ease generally  is  preceded,  for  months  before  lameness 
is  observed,  by  pointing  ;  that  is,  by  advancing  one  foot 
whenever  the  animal  is  at  rest.  The  degree  of  lameness 
varies  considerably  in  different  animals.  In  one  case  it 
is  seen  in  the  first  half-mile's  travel  only ;  in  others  it 
continues  for  a  mile  or  two,  and  then  disappears  ;  in 
some  it  continues  during  a  journey;  but  as  the  animal 
gets  warmed  up,  it  is  not  so  severe  as  on  the  start.     In 


DISEASES    OF   THE   HOUSE.  169 

some  cases  it  disappears  for  weeks  together,  and  then 
shows  itself  again,  gradually  increasing  in  intensity  un- 
til it  becomes  a  permanent  lameness.  In  the  early  stages 
of  the  disease  there  is  no  heat  to  be  discovered  about 
the  foot,  no  swelling,  no  pain  on  pressing  the  heels  ;  the 
animal  picks  up  the  foot  nicely,  but  drops  it  tenderly, 
striking  the  toe  first ;  the  shoe,  therefore,  is  worn  con- 
siderably at  the  toe  and  very  little  at  the  heels. 
Should  a  horse  be  slightly  lame  in  both  feet,  the  symp- 
toms are  still  more  obscure  and  difficult  to  diagnose. 
The  action  of  the  horse  now  becomes  changed  ;  he  no 
longer  bends  his  knees  with  the  same  freedom  as  before ; 
he  steps  short,  the  heels  scarcely  touching  the  ground, 
which  is  a  good  indication  of  the  disease. 

Treatment. — In  recent  cases,  the  application  of  a 
proper  blister  is  usually  successful  ;  the  common  fly 
blister,  thinned  with  spirits  of  turpentine,  answers  a  very 
good  purpose ;  or  the  following,  which  must  be  used 
with  great  caution  to  prevent  its  leaving  a  blemish  be- 
hind :  Powdered  cantharides  2  drachms,  oil  of  turpentine 
2  drachms,  powdered  euphorbium  1  drachm,  oil  of  origa- 
num 1  drachm,  hog's  lard  2  ounces.  Mix  all  together.  This 
should  not  be  repeated  after  the  blister  acts.  In  cases 
of  long  standing,  a  seton  put  through  the  frog  will 
often  be  of  great  service  in  restoring  the  animal  to  use- 
fulness. 

OSSIFICATION    OF    THE    LATERAL    CARTILAGES. 

These  cartilages  are  two  gristly  projections  or  wings 
attached  to  the  coffin-bone  at  the  heels,  and  may  readily 
be  felt  above  the  hoof.  From  contraction,  corns,  and 
other  causes,  these  elastic  bodies  often  become  changed 
from  gristle  to  bone  in  consequence  of  inflammation, 
leaving  the  horse  with  thick  heels  and  a  short,  tender 


170  DISEASES   OF  THE  HOSSX. 

tread  in  traveling.  The  treatment  in  these  cases  is  only 
palliative  in  its  confirmed  state  ;  the  same  treatment  as 
for  navicnlar-joint  lameness  is  proper. 

SHOULDEB    STKAIK-. 

This  arises  from  slipping,  severe  blows,  falling  in  the 
shafts,  etc.  The  symptoms  are  all  well  marked.  The 
animal,  instead  of  raising  the  foot,  drags  the  toe  on  the 
ground  in  walking ;  on  making  a  lever  of  the  leg,  by 
bringing  it  forward,  the  animal  manifests  much  pain ; 
these  usually  are  positive  symptoms. 

Treatment. — Bleed  freely  from  the  Plantar  vein  run- 
ning down  upon  the  inside  of  the  front-legs.  Foment 
the  shoulders  well  with  hot  water  if  the  case  is  a  recent 
one.  If  of  long  standing,  a  seton  will  be  more  effective. 
The  following  liniment  will  be  a  useful  application : 
Sweet  oil  1  pint,  spirits  of  hartshorn  3  oz.,  spirits  of  tur- 
pentine 2  oz.  ;  mix  all  together  ;  shake  well  before 
using.  Or,  alcohol  1  pint,  spirits  of  camphor,  tincture  of 
myrrh,  castile  soap,  of  each  1  oz. ;  mix  all  together ;  or 
oil  of  turpentine  1  oz.,  tincture  of  opium  1  oz.,  soap  lini- 
ment 1  oz.,  tincture  of  capsicum  1  dr. ;  mix  all  together. 

CAPPED    HOOK. 

This  is  a  bruise  of  the  cap  or  point  of  the  hock-joint, 
forming  a  serious  abscess. 

Treatment. — Apply  the  blister  recommended  in  coffin- 
joint  lameness.  Tincture  of  iodine  or  iodine  ointment 
is  sometimes  useful. 

BONE    SPAVI27. 

i 

This  is  one  of  the  most  common  causes  of  lameness  in 
the  hind-legs.  Spavin  arises  from  strains,  sprains,  or 
blows  upon  the  hock-joint,  causing  an  inflammatory  con- 


DISEASES    OF   THE    IIOKSE.  171 

dition  of  the  cartilaginous  cushions  which  cover  the 
uniting  surfaces  of  each  bone  or  of  the  ligaments  that 
surround  the  join4  and  bind  the  bones  together  ;  some- 
times both  are  involved.  This  inflammatory  condition 
of  the  joint  may  be  considered  the  exciting  cause  of 
Spavin,  and,  if  not  speedily  removed,  spavin  soon  follows ; 
the  synovial  fluid,  commonly  called-joint  oil,  is  soon  ab- 
sorbed, the  cartilages  of  the  joint  are  turned  to  bone, 
which  unite  one  with  the  other,  forming  one  solid  mass, 
destroying  the  mobility  of  the  parts  involved,  and  con- 
stituting what  is  technically  called  anchylosis  of  the 
hock-joint.  This  union  of  the  bones  is  not  always  gen- 
eral, there  being  in  many  cases  but  two,  three,  or  four 
of  the  bones  involved.  When  these  changes  are  con- 
fined to  the  cartilages,  there  is  no  external  enlargement ; 
on  the  contrary,  when  the  ligaments  surrounding  the 
joint  are  involved,  we  have  in  all  cases  external  en- 
largement. When  the  hock  receives  an  injury,  the 
course  of  treatment  usually  pursued  by  horsemen  is 
very  pernicious.  The  application  of  a  blister  to  an  in- 
flamed surface  must  do  injury  by  increasing  the  inflam- 
mation they  wish  to  abate,  and  in  many  cases  actually 
producing  a  spavin  where  it  otherwise  would  not  exist. 
I  do  not  deny  that  blisters  are  necessary  and  useful  in 
such  cases,  if  properly  applied  ;  but  the  idea  of  rubbing 
blisters  on  an  inflamed  surface,  to  reduce  it,  is  like  throw- 
ing shavings  on  burning  coals  to  extinguish  them.  The 
educated  physician,  in  applying  a  blister,  does  it  so  as 
to  draw  the  inflammation  from  the  part  affected  to  a 
part  where  it  will  do  no  injury  ;  otherwise,  it  had  better 
not  be  applied  at  all.  When  the  disease  has  advanced 
so  far  as  to  produce  alteration  of  structure  in  the  part, 
the  application  of  blisters  is  proper,  not  for  the  purpose 
of  curing  the  disease,  but  with  a  view  of  removing  the 


172  DISEASES    OF   THE    HOBSE. 

lameness,  by  increasing  the  inflammation,  thereby  causing 
a  more  speedy  union  of  the  diseased  bones,  which,  when 
perfect,  causes  the  animal  to  travel  sound.  The  seton 
I  have  found  the  most  successful  in  long-standing  cases. 
In  the  early  stages,  that  is,  before  any  alteration  of 
structure  takes  place,  the  application  of  cold  water  to 
the  parts  will  often  abate  the  inflammation,  or  a  blister 
applied  above  or  below  the  hock  will  have  the  desired 
effect.  Cooling  embrocations,  such  as  vinegar  and  wa- 
ter, are  also  good.  When  there  is  external  enlarge- 
ment, active  blisters  should  be  applied  over  the  part. 
Liquid  blister  :  powdered  croton  seeds  $  oz.,  powdered 
cantharides  1  oz.,  oil  of  turpentine  1  pt.,  olive  oil  1  pt. ; 
mix  all  together  and  shake  well  before  using. 

RING-BONE. 

This  is  a  disease  precisely  like  spavin,  location  only 
giving  it  a  different  name.  The  same  alterations  in 
structure  take  place,  the  same  terminations  follow,  and 
the  same  treatment  is  called  for.  Ring-bone,  unlike 
spavin,  rarely  occurs  without  enlargement.  I  have 
never  known  of  but  one  case  of  the  kind. 

SPLINT. 

This  is  a  bony  deposit  situated-  between  the  cannon 
and  splint-bones,  well  known  to  all  horsemen,  rarely 
causing  lameness,  except  when  it  is  situated  so  as  to  in- 
terfere with  the  action  of  the  knee-joint,  or  at  the  lower 
extremity  of  the  splint-bone.  Few  horses  attain  the  age 
of  eight  years  without  having  them  ;  they  disappear  in 
time  by  spreading  over  a  greater  surface  of  bone,  be- 
coming flat  upon  the  surface,  giving  rise  to  the  opinion 
often  indulged  in  by  horsemen  that  old  horses  never 
have  splint.  Splint  is  a  disease  of  the  same  character 
as  spavin,  and  requires  the  same  treatment. 


DISEASES    OF   THE    HORSE.  173 


CURB. 


This  is  an  enlargement  at  the  back  part  of  the  hock, 
about  four  inches  below  the  cap,  arising  from  strains, 
bruises,  breaking  clown  of  the  hock,  etc. 

Treatment. — In  recent  cases  the  part  should  be  bathed 
with  tincture  of  iodine  once  a  day ;  or  use  the  iodine 
ointment.  Take  a  little  blood  from  the  sephena  vein  on 
the  inside  of  the  hind-leg,  above  the  hock.  Should  this 
not  succeed,  blisters  must  be  resorted  to ;  the  same 
applications  as  are  used  for  spavins  are  applicable  here. 

BLOOD    OB    BOG-SPAVIN. 

This  is  but  one  disease,  a  bursal  enlargement  or  an 
increase  in  the  secretion  of  the  joint-oil  causing  disten- 
sion of  the  capsular  ligament  which  surrounds  the  joint, 
causing  puffy  swellings  on  the  front  and  inside  of  the 
joint,  rarely  causing  lameness.  Thoroughpin  is  the 
same  disease  on  a  more  extensive  scale,  causing  the 
enlargement  to  extend  through  the  joint  from  one  side 
to  the  other.  The  only  successful  treatment  which  I 
have  found,  with  a  few  exceptions,  is  cold-water  com- 
presses, placed  upon  the  joint  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
press  upon  the  swollen  parts,  and  retain  them  there 
for  six  or  eight  weeks,  by  means  of  a  leathern  socket- 
made  to  fit  the  joint ;  the  compresses  to  be  changed 
every  day ;  old  muslin  or  woolen  cloth  is  the  best  ma 
terial  to  use. 

PALPITATION    OF    THE    HEART. 

Tins  disease  is  known  to  horsemen  as  the  thumps,  in 
consequence  of  the  violent  action  of  the  heart,  causing  a 
jerking  or  shaking  of  the  entire  animal  frame,  observable 
at  a  distance  of  several  yards.  This  disease  is  sometimes 
preceded  by  an  obscure  lameness,  generally  occurring  in 


174  DISEASES   OF   THE   HORSE. 

the  off  fore-leg,  which  in  medical  language  is  termed 
sympathetic. 

Treatment. — The  worst  cases  yield  in  two  hours  to 
the  following  simple  treatment :  Divide  1  dr.  of  digitalis 
into  5  powders,  and  give  one  every  fifteen  minutes  on 
the  tongue. 

INFLAMMATION    OF    THE   BRAIN. 

Mad  staggers,  as  this  disease  is  called,  arises  from 
various  causes.  Blows  over  the  head  will  produce  it, 
over-feeding,  a  tight  collar,  powerful  stimulants,  etc. 
Symptoms  :  The  animal  at  first  is  dull,  and  moves  with 
apparent  reluctance ;  the  membranes  dividing  the  eye- 
lids and  nose  are  much  reddened,  pulse  full  and  quick, 
appetite  lost,  a  vacant  stare  about  the  eyes,  ending  in 
delirium  or  madness.  Every  thing  around  the  animal 
is  destroyed  or  injured ;  he  continues  his  ravings  until 
exhausted. 

Treatment. — Open  the  jugular  vein  as  quickly  as  pos- 
sible ;  this  should  be  done  before  the  mad  stage  comes 
on  or  it  is  too  late  to  be  of  much  service.  Open  the 
bowels  freely;  give  the  following:  Barbadoes  aloes  1 
oz.,  croton  oil  10  drops,  ginger  1  dr.,  gentian  1  dr.,  mix 
with  molasses  or  honey.  Give  tobacco-smoke  injections 
if  convenient,  or  soap  and  water  will  answer  the  pur- 
pose; give  on  the  tongue  every  two  hours  10  drops 
tincture  of  aconite,  until  8  doses  have  been  given,  and 
then  stop  the  aconite  ;  give  cold  water  to  drink  and 
apply  cold-water  bandages  to  the  head,  or  bags  of  ice 
would  be  better;  give  no  food  for  12  hours  after  relief 
is  obtained. 

STOMACH    STAGGERS. 

This  disease  occurs  in  horses  that  are  great  feeders ; 
in  consequence   the  stomach  becomes  enormously  dis- 


DISEASES    OF  THE    HORSE.  1*75 

tended,  causing  pressure  upon  the  lungs  and  heart,  in- 
terfering with  the  action  of  both,  and  causing  a  deter- 
mination of  blood  to  the  head,  producing  stupor,  with 
a  tendency  to  pitch  forward,  resting  the  head  against 
a  tree  or  any  object  which  may  be  in  his  way  ;  the  head 
often  becomes  bruised  and  cut  by  coming  in  contact 
with  hard  and  rough  objects;  the  bowels  are  consti- 
pated, the  pulse  full  and  slow,  respiration  disturbed,  etc. 
Treatment. — Give  the  purging  ball  recommended  in 
inflammation  of  the  brain,  and  bleed  freely  from  the 
jugular  vein  ;  give  no  food  for  48  hours ;  this  is  all  the 
treatment  the  animal  requires.  As  soon  as  the  bowels 
are  opened,  the  animal  is  relieved  Care  should  be  used 
after  recovery  not  to  allow  the  animal  too  much  pro- 
vender, and  keep  the  bowls  in  good  order  as  a  prevent- 
ive of  subsequent  attacks. 

POIiL-EVII^ 

This  disease  is  said  to  arise  from  blows  upon  the 
head  behind  the  ears,  in  going  in  or  out  of  stables 
with  low  doors,  pulling  upon  the  halter,  etc.  Such 
injuries  in  animals  whose  blood  is  in  a  bad  condition 
will  cause  poll-evil ;  but  it  can  not  live  in  a  healthy  sys- 
tem. The  author's  experience  convinces  him  that  the 
disease  oftener  arises  from  hereditary  causes  than  from 
any  other,  having  met  with,  on  several  occasions,  two 
and  three  unbroken  colts,  from  the  same  mare,  affected 
with  this  disease ;  proving,  beyond  a  doubt,  the  ready 
transmission  of  the  disease  from  parent  to  offspring. 

Treatment. — The  blood  must  be  thoroughly  purified 
before  a  cure  can  be  effected.  Give  the  following  pow- 
der: Pulverized  sulphur  one  lb.,  black  antimony  in  pow- 
der one  half  lb. ;  mix  together ;  dose,  one  table-spoonful 
morning  and  night,  in  the  feed.     'No  corn  or  corn-meal 


176  DISEASES    OF   THE    HOESE. 

should  be  given.  Open  the  bowels  with  aloes  or  lin- 
seed oil.  Lay  the  tumor  open  with  a  knife,  and  inject 
into  the  opening  a  solution  of  sulphate  of  zinc  2  drs.,  to 
1  pint  of  water,  or  the  tincture  of  iodine  is  very  good ; 
sulphuric  acid  is  used  in  some  cases,  but  it  is  a  danger- 
ous remedy. 

FISTULA  OF   THE    "WITHERS. 

This  disease  is  situated  on  the  withers,  or  the  raised 
line  of  the  back,  over  the  shoulders,  and  is  precisely  the 
same  disease  as  poll-evil,  location  only  giving  it  a  differ- 
ent name.  It  is  more  common  than  poll-evil  as  ten  to 
one,  arising  from  the  same  causes,  and  requiring  the 
same  treatment ;  it  yields>  however,  more  readily  than 
the  former  disease. 

GLASTDEKS, 

This  loathsome  disease  has  defied  medical  treatment 
in  all  ages  of  the  world.  It  is  one  of  the  most  treach- 
erous diseases  known  to  man,  being  highly  contagious, 
and  communicated  readily  from  horse  to  horse,  and  from 
horse  to  man  by  means  of  inoculation.  Hence  the  best 
treatment  is  a  leaden  ball  through  the  brain.  Symp- 
toms :  A  discharge  of  matter  from  one  or  both  nostrils, 
enlargement  of  one  or  both  glands  under  the  jaw;  when 
one  nostril  only  is  affected  the  gland  on  the  same  side 
is  almost  invariably  enlarged,  the  membrane  lining  the 
nose  is  pale  or  leaden  in  color,  with  ulcerations  upon  it, 
The  discharge  usually  sticks  to  the  nostril  like  glue, 
and  is  sometimes  white,  but  oftener  grayish  in  color. 
These  latter  symptoms  appear  in  other  diseases  of  a 
catarrhal  character  from  an  acrid  discharge  from  the 
nose.  Glanders  fully  developed  is  not  easily  confounded 
with  other  diseases,  as  the  discharge  becomes  more  glu- 
tinous and  adheres  to  the  edges  of  the  nostrils  more 


DISEASES   OF   THE   HORSE.  177 

firmly,  with  increased  tenderness  of  the  swellings  under 
the  jaw,  which  now  adheres  closely  to  the  jaw-bone ; 
the  discharge  is  somewhat  streaked  with  blood,  and  of 
an  often  si  ve  smell ;  there  is  a  slight  tumefaction  of  the 
under  eyelid,  a  swelling  or  elevation  of  the  bones  of  the 
nose  or  forehead,  loss  of  appetite,  debility,  sometimes 
cough,  swelling  of  the  legs  and  sheath,  and  sometimes 
lameness  without  any  apparent  cause,  chancres  or  ulcer- 
ations within  the  nostrils.  "When  these  symptoms  ap- 
pear, the  disease  soon  proceeds  to  a  fatal  termination. 
Since  the  commencement  of  the  rebellion  many  experi- 
ments have  been  made  with  a  view  to  discovering  a  cure 
for  the  disease,  and  with  some  prospect  of  success.  The 
sulphate  of  soda,  in  ounce  doses,  three  times  a  day,  has 
been  attended  with  partial  success,  and  many  cases  are 
claimed  through  the  agency  of  this  simple  remedy. 

FABCY. 

This  disease  I  regard  as  an  incipient  stage  of  glanders, 
or  as  a  type  of  the  same  fatal  malady,  and  is,  to  a  certain 
extent,  curable.  There  are  two  distinct  varieties  or 
stages  of  farcy ;  one,  which  is  called  button  farcy,  is 
altogether  superficial,  being  confined  to  the  lymphatic 
vessels  of  the  skin,  and  readily  yields  to  medical  treat- 
ment ;  the  other  variety  makes  its  appearance  in  the  ex- 
tremities, generally  upon  the  inside  of  the  hind-legs, 
which  become  completely  engorged,  presenting  a  very 
uneven  or  lumpy  appearance,  excessively  tender  and 
painful  to  the  touch.  Small  abscesses  are  formed, 
which  at  first  discharge  healthy  pus,  but  soon  ulcerate 
and  discharge  a  thin,  sanious  matter.  These  abscesses 
first  make  their  appearance  on  the  inside  of  the  hind- 
legs,  and  then  on  the  fore  ones  in  like  manner ;  the  neck 
and  lips  come  next  in  turn,  and  they  may  appear  in  all 


178  DISEASES   OE   THE  HOBSE. 

parts  of  the  body,  when  glanders  will  begin  to  manifest 
itself. 

Treatment. — Give  one  ounce  of  the  sulphate  of  soda 
three  times  a  day ;  or  corrosive  sublimate,  in  ten-grain 
doses,  twice  a  day  ;  or  mix  vomica,  in  \  dr.  doses,  twice 
a  day.  Sulphate  of  copper,  in  2  dr.  doses,  has  been  used 
with  decided  advantage.  The  tumors  should  be  opened, 
and  caustic  silver  or  red-hot  iron  applied  to  each. 

MANGE. 

This  is  a  disease  of  the  skin  identical  with  itch  in  the 
human  family.  The  hair  comes  oif  in  spots  which  grad- 
ually blend  together,  causing  scabby  patches  ;  the  skin 
thickens  and  puckers  along  the  neck. 

Treatment. — Take  the  horse  in  the  sun  and  scrub  him 
thoroughly  all  over  with  castile  soap  and  water,  then 
wash  him  well  from  head  to  tail  with  gas- water,  in 
which  put  2  drs.  white  hellebore  to  the  gallon.  He  must 
now  be  put  in  another  stall  distant  from  the  one  in 
which  he  has  been  standing  :  thus  treated,  it  rarely  re- 
quires more  than  one  washing  to  effect  a  permanent 
cure.  The  harness  should  be  thoroughly  scrubbed  and 
put  away  for  six  or  eight  weeks.  These  precautions 
are  necessary  to  success  in  this  otherwise  troublesome 
disease. 

SURFEIT. 

This  is  a  scurfy  eruption  all  over  the  body,  arising 
from  an  impure  condition  of  the  blood,  causing  plethora 
in  one  animal,  and  general  debility,  etc.,  in  another. 
The  legs  swell,  the  hair  is  rough  and  staring,  the  mem- 
brane lining  in  the  nose  presents  a  bluish  cast. 

Give  the  following  :  Barbadoes  aloes  1  oz.,  nitrate  of 
potassa  2  drs.,  gentian  1  dr. ;  make  into  a  ball  with 
water  ;  follow  this  with  the  following  powder  :  Nitrate 


DISEASES    OP  THE   HORSE.  1?9 

^f  potash  2  oz.,  pulverized  sulphur  6  oz.,  black  antimony 
2  oz. ;  mix  and  divide  into  16  powders,  give  one  morning 
and  night. 

HIDE-BOUND. 

Any  derangement  of  the  system  has  a  tendency  to 
produce  this  condition  of  the  skin.  Medicines  of  an  alter- 
ative character  are  here  indicated ;  the  most  successful 
are  :  Sulphur  pulverized  8  oz.,  nitrate  of  potassa  pulver- 
ized 3  oz.,  black  antimony  pulverized  2  oz.,  sulphate  of 
iron  4  oz.  ;  mix  all  together  and  give  one  table-spoonful 
twice  a  day.  Or  Barbadoes  aloes  2  oz.,  nitre  1  oz.,  gen- 
tian 1  oz. ;  mix  and  divide  into  16  powders,  one  to  be 
given  night  and  morning. 

LOCKED-JAW. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  troublesome  and  uncertain 
diseases  with  which  the  veterinary  surgeon  has  to  com- 
bat ;  it  is  technically  called  tetanus.  It  arises  generally 
from  nail-wounds  in  the  feet,  sharp,  metallic  substances 
taken  into  and  wounding  the  stomach,  or  stones  in  the 
stomach  or  intestines  ;  bots  are  said  occasionally  to  be 
the  cause  of  locked-jaw,  etc.,  etc.  The  first  symptoms 
of  the  disease  are  observed  about  the  ninth  or  tenth  day 
after  the  injury  is  done,  which  are  a  straggling  or  stiff- 
ness of  the  hind-legs,  to  which  succeeds,  in  a  few  days, 
the  following :  On  elevating  the  head,  a  spasmodic  mo- 
tion of  the  membrane  in  the  inner  corner  of  the  eye  will 
be  observed,  showing  little  more  than  the  white  of  the 
eye,  the  muscles  of  the  jaws  become  rigid,  the  tonguo 
is  swollen,  and  the  mouth  filled  with  saliva,  the  ears  are 
erect,  the  nose  poked  out,  the  nostrils  expand,  the  respir- 
ation becomes  disturbed,  and  finally  the  jaws  become 
firmly  set,  and  the  bowels  are  constipated. 


180  DISEASES    OE   THE   EOESE. 

Treatment. — That  which  I  have  found  most  success- 
ful is  the  early  administration  of  the  following  :  Tincture 
of  aconite,  two  drachms ;  tincture  of  belladonna,  two 
drachms ;  water,  one  half-ounce ;  mix  and  give  forty 
drops  every  four  hours  on  the  tongue.  Keep  a  ball  of 
aloes  in  the  mouth  for  several  days  ;  there  is  no  fear  of 
giving  too  much  ;  I  have  frequently  given  half  a  pound 
in  the  course  of  a  few  days,  with  good  results.  Hydro- 
cyanic acid,  twenty  drops  in  a  little  water,  and  put  upon 
the  tongue  every  four  hours,  is  an  excellent  remedy. 
Foment  the  jaws  with  bags  of  hops  steeped  in  hot 
water,  and  bathe  the  line  of  the  back  from  the  pole  to 
the  croup  with  mustard  and  vinegar ;  be  careful  not  to 
allow  the  animal  to  be  unnecessarily  excited  by  noises 
and  bustle  about  him,  but  go  about  him  very  quietly  ; 
keep  a  pail  of  bran-slop  before  him  all  the  time.  If  the 
foot  has  been  injured,  poultice  with  flax-seed  meal  and 
keep  the  wound  open  until  healthy  action  has  been  es- 
tablished. 

EHEUMATISM. 

This  is  a  common  disease  in  some  localities,  as  it  is  m 
the  human  family ;  the  animal  appears  stiff  and  sore,  the 
lameness  shifting  from  one  limb  to  another,  the  joints 
sometimes  become  swollen  and  painful  to  the  touch,  the 
animal  appearing  better  or  worse,  according  to  the  sea- 
son of  the  year  and  the  condition  of  the  atmosphere. 

Treatment. — Open  the  bowels  with  the  following  i 
Calomel,  one  drachm ;  Barbadoes  aloes,  four  drachms ; 
alcohol,  two  drachms  ;  linseed-meal,  two  drachma  ;  mo- 
lasses enough  to  make  into  a  ball ;  follow  this  with  pine 
tar,  one  half-ounce,  made  into  a  ball  with  flax-seed  meal ; 
give  one  every  morning.  Poultice  the  feet  with  flax- 
seed meal,  four  parts,  ground  mustard,  one  part,  for 


DISEASES   OF  THE   HORSE.  181 

several  days  ;  and  bathe  the  affected  limbs  with  the  fol- 
lowing liniment :  Oil  of  turpentine,  tincture  of  opium, 
soap-liniment,  of  each  one  ounce  ;  tincture  of  capsicum, 
one  drachm;  mix  all  together  ;  shake  well  before  using, 

CEAMP. 

This  disease  baffles  the  judgment  of  the  most  experi- 
enced horsemen,  often  creating  unnecessary  alarm  from 
the  peculiar  manner  in  which  the  animal  is  handled. 

Symptoms, — The  horse  appears  well  in  body  and  limb 
until  efforts  are  made  to  move  him ;  he  then  appears  to 
have  lost  all  power  of  motion  in  one  of  his  legs,  usually 
the  hind  ones ;  it  is  firmly  planted  on  the  ground,  and 
the  most  powerful  man  fails  to  move  it.  On  compelling 
the  animal  to  move,  the  leg  drags  behind  as  though  it 
were  dislocated.  Upon  striking  him  with  the  whip  he 
frequently  will  take  two  or  three  natural  steps,  and  the 
leg  drags  as  before. 

Treatment. — Hand-rubbing  is  very  necessary,  and  use 
the  following  liniment  upon  the  affected  part :  Alcohol, 
one  pint ;  tincture  of  camphor,  one  half-pint ;  tincture 
of  opium,  four  ounces ;  mix  all  together. 

"WARTS. 

When  the  warts  have  necks,  all  that  is  necessaiy  for 
their  removal  is  a  piece  of  silk  tied  tightly  around  them 
as  closely  to  the  roots  as  possible ;  in  a  few  days  they 
will  slough  away :  or  if  they  are  larger  at  their  base, 
pass  a  needle  armed  with  a  double  thread  through  the 
wart  as  near  the  root  as  possible,  and  tie  each  way,  so 
as  to  cut  off  the  circulation  of  the  blood,  and  it  will  soon 
die  and  come  away ;  or  paint  it  over  with  the  perman- 
ganate of  potash  once  a  day  for  a  week ;  or  use  the 
caustic  potash  in  the  same  manner ;  eitlier  of  these 
remedies  usually  answer  the  purpose. 


182  DISEASES   OF  THE   HORSE 

SADDLE-GALLS. 

These  are  too  well  known  to  horsemen  to  require  any 
special  remarks  regarding  their  cause,  etc. 

Treatment. — Bathe  the  parts  two  or  three  times  a  day 
with  equal  parts  of  tincture  of  myrrh  and  tincture  of 
aloes.  Or,  collodion,  one  ounce  ;  castor  oil,  two  ounces  ; 
mixed  together  :  or,  glycerine  is  a  very  good  remedy. 

DISEASES   OF   THE   EYE.-AMATJRQSIS,   OB   GTTTTA 
SERENA, 

Commonly  called  glass  eye.  In  this  disease  the  eyes 
have  a  peculiar  glassy  appearance,  with  an  enlarged  or 
expanded  pupil.  The  eyes  are  clear  and  show  no  indica- 
tions of  disease  to  the  ordinary  observer,  yet  the  animal 
is  partially  or  wholly  blind.  The  cause  is  paralysis  of 
the  optic  nerve,  the  best  means  of  detecting  which  is  to 
expose  the  eye  to  different  degrees  of  light,  which,  when 
disease  exists,  makes  no  impression  on  the  pupil  what- 
ever ;  while  in  a  sound  eye  the  pupil  contracts  when  ex- 
posed to  a  strong  light,  and  expands  when  removed  to  a 
weaker  light,  or  when  removed  to  a  dark  place.  An 
animal  affected  with  amaurosis  will  run  against  any  ob- 
ject in  his  way,  and  present  all  other  symptoms  of  a 
horse  blind  from  any  other  cause. 

Treatment. — Give  a  strong  purge  ;  follow  this  twice 
a  day  with  half-clrachm  doses  of  nux  vomica,  mixed  in 
the  feed ;  apply  a  fly-blister  back  of  the  eye,  and  give 
bran  mashes  for  a  few  days.  No  corn  should  be  used 
until  the  sight  is  restored. 

INFLAMMATION    OF    THE    HAW, 

As  it  is  commonly  called,  also  known  as  the  Hooks. 
This  a  swelling  from  inflammation  of  the  membrane  in 
the  inner  corner  of  the  eye,  called  the  membrana  nicti- 


DISEASES    OF   THE  HOUSE.  183 

tans  ;  its  office  or  function  is  to  cleanse  the  eye  of  dirt 
or  other  substances  getting  into  it. 

Treatment. — This  is  simple  and  effective  :  Open  the 
bowels  with  the  aloes  ball  recommended  in  rheumatism, 
and  apply  the  following  wash  :  Tincture  of  opium,  one 
ounce  ;  rain-water,  one  pint ;  mix  together  and  bathe 
the  eye  three  or  four  times  a  day.  Do  not  be  persuaded 
to  cut  out  this  membrane  of  the  eye,  as  its  removal  does 
injury  by  impairing  its  function. 

SIMPLE   OPHTHALMIA, 

This  disease  arises  from  some  external  injury,  as  a 
blow  upon  the  eye,  or  from  a  foreign  body  getting  into 
it,  causing  inflammation  to  ensue  ;  the  eye  becomes 
swollen,  very  sensitive,  and  watery. 

Treatment. — Open  the  vein  under  the  eye  and  let  it 
bleed  until  it  stops  of  itself.  Open  the  bowels,  and 
use  the  folio  wing  wash  :  Tincture  of  opium,  six  drachms ; 
tincture  of  aconite,  two  drachms  ;  rain-water,  one  pint ; 
mix  all  together,  and  bathe  the  eye  three  times  a  day : 
or,  use  belladonna,  one  ounce ;  rain-water,  one  pint ; 
mix,  and  bathe  the  same. 

SPECIFIC    OPHTHALMIA. 

This  is  called  by  horsemen  moon-blindness,  from  its 
periodical  appearance  ;  supposed  by  some  persons  to  be 
governed  by  the  moon.  The  eyes  in  this  disease  become 
watery,  and  a  white  film  covers  the  entire  ball  of  the 
eye.  When  this  disease  once  appears,  Ave  may  look  for 
its  termination  in  blindness.  The  eyes  may  be  cleared 
up  a  few  times,  but  eventually  the  animal  goes  blind. 

Treatment. —Open  the  bowels  freely  with  the  aloes 
ball,  and  give  internally  one  of  the  following  powders  in 
the  feed,  night  and  morning  :  Colchicum  root  pulverized, 


184  DISEASES   0E  THE   HORSE. 

one  ounce ;  linseed  meal,  two  ounces  ;  mix  and  divide 
into  twenty  powders*  Bathe  the  eye  with  the  follow- 
ing :  Belladonna,  one  ounce  ;  rain-water,  one  pint :  or, 
nitrate  of  silver,  eight  grains ;  distilled  wrater,  four 
ounces ;  mix  :  or,  sulphate  of  zinc,  one  half  drachm  ; 
diacetate  of  lead,  one  drachm ;  water,  one  and  a  half 
pints :  or,  take  a  piece  of  sulphate  of  copper,  (blue- 
stone,)  shave  it  thin  and  smooth,  and  pass  it  carefully 
between  the  eyelid  and  the  eyeball  twTice  a  day  until 
the  eye  is  cleared  up. ' 

CATAEACT. 

This  disease  is  usually  the  result  of  termination  of 
specific  ophthalmia,  causing  an  opacity  or  breaking  up  of 
the  crystalline  lens,  situated  directly  behind  the  pupil, 
presenting  a  wThite  and  cloudy  appearance  in  the  centre 
of  the  eye,  and  causing  partial  or  total  blindness.  Little 
can  be  done  by  way  of  treatment  in  this  disease  as  it 
occurs  in  the  horse. 


EEOAPITULATION  OF  EEMED1KS. 


Lampass. — Lancing. 

Bags  or  Washers. — Cutting,  and  apply  alum- water  or 
tincture  myrrh  and  water,  equal  parts. 

Sore  Mouth. — Tinctures  myrrh,  aloes,  and  water, 
equal  parts. 

Uneven  Teeeh. — Filing. 

Wolf-Teeth. — Extracting  with  dentist's  forceps. 

Caries  or  Diseased  Teeth  should  be  extracted. 

Sore-Throat. — Mustard  paste  with  vinegar,  or  linseed 
oil  two  parts,  ammonia  one  part,  applied  outwardly. 
Powdered  saltpetre,  half-tea-spoonful  upon  tongue  twice 
a  day. 

Strangles— Flax-seed  poultice,  steam  nostrils,  and 
lancing.     Veterinary  surgeon  if  possible. 

Influenza. — Tincture  of  aconite  or  bryona,  ten  drops 
in  water  every  six  hours  for  two  days,  then  spirits  nitre 
1  oz.,  extract  belladonna  2  dr.,  in  a  pail  of  water  once  a 
day.  A  powder  of  gentian  root,  saltpetre,  and  anise-seed, 
each  1  oz.,  sulphate  of  quinine  1  dr. ;  mix  and  divide 
into  eight  powders  ;  give  three  times  a  day  in  feed ;  or 
powdered  cinchona  and  powdered  quassia  each  2  oz.,  pow- 


186  RECAPITULATION    OF   REMEDIES. 

dcred  anise-seed  1  oz. ;  mix  and  divide  into  four. powders, 
and  give  three  times  a  day  in  feed.  Bathe  throat  in 
mustard  and  vinegar,  or  with  linseed  oil  3  oz.  and  am- 
monia 1  oz.,  mixed. 

Bronchitis. — A  ball  of  nitrate  of  potassa,  pulverized 
digitalis,  and  tartrate  of  antimony,  each  \  dr.,  molasses 
sufficient  to  make  the  ball ;  once  in  twelve  hours  till 
fever  is  broken ;  then  nitrate  of  potassa  \\  oz.,  nitrate 
of  soda  6  oz. ;  mix  and  divide  into  six  powders ;  twice 
a  day  in  mash  ;  or  extract  belladonna  1  dr.,  spirits  nitre 

1  oz.,  solution  of  acetate  of  ammonia  4  oz.,  in  half  pint 
of  water  as  a  drench.  Blister  throat  and  sides  with  fly- 
blister  and  turpentine ;  or  mustard,  ammonia,  and  wa- 
ter.    Rub  in  with  the  hand. 

JSfasal  Gleet. — Give  night  and  morning  one  of  the  fol- 
lowing powders :  Sesquichloride  of  iron  2  oz.,  powder- 
ed cinnamon  1  oz.,  mix  and  divide  into  4  powders  ;  or 
carbonate  of  iron,  pulverized  gentian,  and  pulverized 
quassia,  of  each  1  oz.,  divide  into  4  powders ;  or  nux 
vomica  pulverized,  %  oz.,  linseed  meal  2  oz.,  divide  into 
8  powders.  Another  good  preparation  is  muriate  of 
barytes  £  oz.,  linseed  meal  1  oz.,  divide  into  8  powders. 

Broken  Wind  or  Heaves. — Divide  half  an  ounce  of 
pulverized  digitalis  in  20  parts,  and  give  one  part  night 
and  morning  in  the  feed,  until  gone  ;  or  take  assafoatida 

2  drs.,  camphor  1  dr.,  mix  and  give  every  other  night 
for  f.  week. 

Inflammation  of  the  Bowels. — Bleed  from  neck,  give 
10  drops  tincture  aconite  every  three  hours,  apply  hot 
wet  blankets,  inject  tobacco-smoke  or  soap  and  water. 
2$o  food  for  forty-eight  hours. 

Diarrhea. — Give  every  six  hours  until  checked,  pow- 


RECAPITULATION    OP   REMEDIES.  187 

ered  opium  1  dr.,  powdered   catechu  2  drs.,  prepared 
chalk  1  oz.,  mix  and  divide  into  4  powders. 

Colic,  Sjyasmodic. — Give  1  oz.  tincture  opium  and  1 
oz.  sulphuric  ether  in  half  a  pint  of  water ;  repeat  in 
half  an  hour  if  relief  is  not  obtained.  Or,  give  the  fol- 
lowing :  Tincture  of  opium  1  oz.,  aromatic  spirits  of  am- 
monia ^  oz.,  extract  of  belladonna  1  dr.,  water  1  pint, 
luix.  In  flatulent  colic,  give  chlorate  of  potash  J  oz., 
sulphuric  ether  £  oz.,  tincture  of  aloes  3  oz.,  water  1 
pint,  mix  and  drench. 

Worms. — Calomel  -J  dr.,  tartrate  of  antimony  ^  dr., 
linseed  meal  -j-  oz.,  mix  and  give  at  night ;  or  iron  filings 
2  drs.,  common  salt  -J-  oz.,  powdered  savin  1  dr.,  linseed 
meal  \  oz.,  mix,  give  every  night  for  a  week ;  or  assa- 
foetida  2  drs.,  calomel  \\  drs.,  savin  1^  drs.,  oil  male  fern 
30  drops,  linseed  meal  2  drs.,  mix  with  molasses  and 
give  at  night ;  or  calomel  1  dr.,  powdered  wormwood  1 
oz.,  honey  sufficient  to  make  the  ball ;  give  at  night. 
Follow  either  of  the  above  with  the  following  ball :  Bar- 
badoes  aloes  1  oz.,  pulverized  gentian  2  drs.,  pulverized 
ginger  1  dr.,  water  sufficient  to  make  the  ball.  Another 
remedy :  Barbadoes  aloes  6  drs.,  male  fern  4  oz.,  spirits 
turpentine  2  oz.,  mix  and  divide  into  G  balls  ;  give  one 
three  times  a  day. 

Retention  of  Urine. — Give  a  ball  every  night  of  pow- 
dered opium  -J-  oz.,  powdered  kino  1  oz.,  prepared  chalk 
1  oz.,  mixed  with  molasses  and  made  into  six  balls. 

Stone  in  Bladder. — Muriatic  acid  2  drs.  in  a  pail  of 
water  once  a  day. 

Quitter. — Flax-seed  meal  poultice  till  soft,  then  cut 
away.  Inject  once  a  day  :  Chloride  of  zinc  2  drs.,  dis- 
solved in  1  pint  of  water ;  or  sulphate  of  zinc  1 J  drs., 


188  RECAPITULATION    OF   REMEDIES. 

dissolved  in  1  pint  of  water ;  or  nitrate  of  silver  2  drs., 
in  a  pint  of  water ;  or  glycerine  may  be  used  with  ad- 
vantage. Before  using  the  wash,  hare  the  foot  well 
cleaned  with  castile  soap  and  water. 

Thrush. — Wash  the  feet  well  with  soap  and  water, 
and  sprinkle  a  small  quantity  of  pulverized  sulphate  of 
copper  in  the  cleft,  and  secure  it  by  pressing  a  little  raw 
cotton. 

Canker. — Take  equal  parts  of  pine  tar  and  lard,  add 
sulphuric  acid  while  melting,  apply  to  foot ;  or  use  collo- 
dion ^  oz.,  castor  oil  1  oz.,  mix  and  apply  to  the  parts. 

Scratches. — "Wash  parts  in  soap  and  water,  and  apply 
once  a  day :  Collodion  J  oz.,  castor  oil  1  oz. ;  or  apply 
once  a  week  saturated  solution  bichloride  of  mercury. 

Grease  Heels. — Give  a  ball  of  Barbadoes  aloes  1  oz., 
pulverized  gentian  root  2  drs.,  pulverized  ginger  1  dr., 
water  sufficient  to  make  the  ball ;  wash  the  parts  well 
and  poultice  for  two  or  three  days  with  the  following  : 
Flax-seed  meal  mixed  with  a  solution  of  2  drs.  sulphate 
zinc  to  a  pail  of  water  ;  bathe  frequently  with  glycerine, 
or  a  solution  of  zinc,  or  a  solution  of  chloride  of  lime. 

Water  Farcy. — Give  one  of  the  following  powers 
night  and  morning  in  the  feed  :  Sulphate  of  iron  2  oz., 
nitrate  of  potassa  1  oz.,  pulverized  gentian  1  oz.,  pul- 
verized ginger  6  drs.,  anise-seed,  ground,  \  oz.,  mix  and 
divide  into  8  powders  ;  or  sulphate  of  copper,  nitrate  of 
potassa,  and  pulverized  gentian,  of  each  1  oz.,  pulverized 
ginger  \  oz.,  anise-seed,  ground,  6  drs.,  mix  and  divide 
into  8  powders.     Hub  hard  and  exercise  moderately. 

Founder. — If  the  animal  is  in  full  condition,  bleed 
freely  from  the  feet,  and  give  the  following  ■  Barbadoes 


RECAPITULATION    OF   REMEDIES.  189 

aloes  G  drs.,  croton  oil  6  drops,  pulverized  ginger  1  dr., 
pulverized  gentian  2  drs.,  mix  with  water  in  form  of 
ball ;  foment  the  feet  well  with  hot  water,  and  then 
poultice  with  flax-seed  meal  for  several  days ;  give  in 
the  water  every  6  hours  extract  of  belladonna  1  dr. 

Shoulder  Strain. — Bleed  freely  from  the  Plantar  vein 
running  down  upon  the  inside  of  the  front  legs.  Fo- 
ment the  shoulders  well  with  hot  water  if  the  case  is  a 
recent  one.  If  of  long  standing,  a  seton  will  be  more 
effective.  The  following  liniment  will  be  a  useful  appli- 
cation :  Sweet  oil  1  pint,  spirits  of  hartshorn  3  oz.,  spir- 
its of  turpentine  2  oz.  ;  mix  all  together ;  shake  well 
before  using  ;  or  alcohol  1  pint,  spirits  of  camphor,  tinc- 
ture of  myrrh,  castile  soap,  of  each  1  oz. ;  mix  all  to- 
gether ;  or  oil  of  turpentine  1  oz.,  tincture  of  opium  1 
oz.,  soap  liniment  I  oz.,  tincture  of  capsicum  1  dr. ;  mix 
all  together. 

Capped  Hoch. — Blister  ;  tincture  of  iodine,  or  iodine 
ointment  is  useful. 

Bone  Spavin. — When  there  is  external  enlargement, 
active  blisters  should  be  applied  over  the  part.  Liquid 
blister  :  Powdered  croton  seeds  J  oz.,  powdered  cantha- 
rides  1  oz.,  oil  of  turpentine  1  pt.,  olive  oil  1  pt. ;  mix 
all  together,  and  shake  well  before  using. 

Curb. — In  recent  cases  the  part  should  be  bathed  with 
tincture  of  iodine  once  a  day ;  or  use  iodine  ointment. 
Take  a  little  blood  from  the  sephena  vein  on  the  inside 
of  the  hind-leg,  above  the  hock.  Should  this  not  suc- 
ceed, blisters  must  be  resorted  to. 

Blood  or  Bog  Spavin. — Use  cold-water  compresses, 
placed  upon  the  joint  for  six  or  eight  weeks,  by  means 


190  RECAPITULATION   OF   RBMEMB3. 

of  a  leathern  socket  made  to  fit.     Old  woolen  or  muslin 
cloth  is  best. 

Palpitation  of  the  Heart. — The  worst  cases  yield  in 
two  hours  to  the  following  simple  treatment :  Divide  1 
dr.  of  digitalis  into  5  powders,  and  give  one  every  fif- 
teen minutes  on  the  tongue. 

Inflammation  of  the  Brain.— Open  the  jugular  vein 
as  quickly  as  possible.  It  should  be  done  before  the  mad 
stage  comes  on,  or  it  is  too  late  to  be  of  much  service. 
Open  the  bowels  freely  ;  give  the  following  :  Barbadoes 
aloes  1  oz.,  croton  oil  10  drops,  ginger  1  dr.,  gentian  1 
dr. ;  mix  with  molasses  or  honey.  Give  tobacco-smoke 
injections  if  convenient,  or  soap  and  water  will  answer 
the  purpose ;  give  on  the  tongue  every  two  hours  10 
drops  tincture  of  aconite,  until  8  doses  have  been  given, 
and  then  stop  the  aconite  ;  give  cold  water  to  drink  and 
apply  cold-water  bandages  to  the  head,  or  bags  of  ice 
would  be  better ;  give  no  food  for  twelve  hours  after 
relief  is  obtained. 

Stomach  Staggers. — Give  the  purging  ball  recom- 
mended in  inflammation  of  the  brain,  and  bleed  freely 
from  the  jugular  vein  ;  give  no  food  for  forty-eight 
hours  ;  this  is  all  the  treatment  the  animal  requires. 

Poll-Evil. — Give  the  following  powder  :  Pulverized 
sulphur  1  lb.,  black  antimony  in  powder  -J  lb.  ;  mix  to- 
gether ;  dose,  one  table-spoonful  morning  and  night  in 
the  feed.  No  corn  or  corn-meal  should  be  given.  Open 
the  bowels  with  aloes  or  linseed  oil.  Lay  the  tumor 
open  with  a  knife,  and  inject  into  the  opening  a  solution 
of  sulphate  of  zinc  2  drs.,  to  1  pint  of  water,  or  the  tinc- 
ture of  iodine  is  very  good  ;  sulphuric  acid  is  used  in 
some  cases,  but  it  is  a  dangerous  remedy. 


RECAPITULATION    OF   REMEDIES.  101 

Glanders. — Sulphate  of  soda  in  1  oz.  doses  three  times 
a  day  has  been  attended  with  partial  success ;  but  pow- 
der and  ball,  applied  through  the  medium  of  a  rifle,  is 
the  only  sure  cure  we  know  of. 

Farcy. — Give  1  oz.  of  the  sulphate  of  soda  three  times 
a  day,  or  corrosive  sublimate  in  ten-grain  doses  twice  a 
day ;  or  mix  vomica  in  \  dr.  doses  twice  a  day.  Sul- 
phate of  copper  in  2  dr.  doses  has  been  used  with  de- 
cided advantage.  The  tumors  should  be  opened  and 
caustic  silver  or  a  red-hot  iron  applied  to  each. 

Mange. — Take  the  horse  in  the  sun  and  scrub  him 
thoroughly  all  over  with  castile  soap  and  water,  then 
wash  him  well  from  head  to  tail  with  gas-water,  in  which 
put  2  drs.  white  hellebore  to  the  gallon.  Put  him  in  a 
different  stable  and  use  a  clean  harness. 

Surfeit. — Give  the  following :  Barbadoes  aloes  1  oz., 
nitrate  of  potassa  2  drs.,  gentian  1  dr.,  make  into  a  ball 
with  water ;  follow  this  with  the  following  powder : 
Nitrate  of  potash  2  oz.,  pulverized  sulphur  6  oz.,  black 
antimony  2  oz. ;  mix  and  divide  into  16  powders;  give 
one  morning  and  night. 

Hide-Bound. — Take  sulphur,  pulverized,  8  oz.,  nitrate 
potassa,  pulverized,  3  oz.,  black  antimony,  pulverized,  2 
oz.,  sulphate  of  iron  4  oz. ;  mix  together ;  give  1  table- 
spoonful  twice  a  day.  Or,  Barbadoes  aloes  2  oz.,  nitre 
1  oz.,  gentian  1  oz. ;  mix  and  divide  into  16  powders, 
to  be  given  night  and  morning. 

Rheumatism, — Open  the  bowels  with  the  following . 
Calomel  1  dr.,  Barbadoes  aloes  4  drs.,  alcohol  2  drs., 
linseed  meal  2  drs.,  molasses  enough  to  make  into  a 
ball ;  follow  this  with  pine  tar  \  oz.,  made  into  a  ball 
with  flax-seed  meal ;  give  one  every  morning.    Poultice 


192  RECAPITULATION    OF    REMEDIES. 

the  feet  with  flax-seed  meal  4  parts,  ground  mustard  1 
part,  for  several  days  ;  and  bathe  the  affected  limbs 
with  the  following  liniment :  Oil  of  turpentine,  tincture 
of  opium,  soap  liniment,  of  each  1  oz.,  tincture  of  capsi- 
cum 1  dr. ;  mix  all  together ;  shake  well  before  using. 

Cram}). — Hand-rubbing  is  very  necessary,  and  use 
the  following  liniment  upon  the  affected  part :  Alcohol 
1  pint,  tincture  of  camphor  \  pint,  tincture  of  opium  4 
oz. ;  mix  all  together. 

Saddle-  Galls. — Bathe  the  parts  two  or  three  times  a 
day  with  tincture  of  myrrh  and  tincture  of  aloes,  equal 
parts  ;  or  collodion  1  oz.,  castor  oil  2  oz.,  mixed  ;  or  gly- 
cerine. 

Amaurosis. — Give  a  strong  purge  ;  follow  this  twice 
a  day  with  ^  dr.  doses  of  nux  vomica  mixed  in  the  feed  ; 
apply  a  fly-blister  back  of  the  eye.     Give  no  corn  until 

sight  is  restored. 

The  Hooks. — Open  the  bowels  with  the  aloes  ball 
recommended  in  rheumatism,  and  apply  the  following 
wash :  Tincture  of  opium  1  oz.,  rain  water  1  pint ;  mix 
together  and  bathe  the  eye  three  or  four  times  a  day. 
Do  not  be  persuaded  to  cut  out  this  membrane  of  tho 
eye,  as  its  removal  does  injury  by  impairing  its  function. 

Simple  Ophthalmia. — Open  the  vein  under  the  eye  and 
let  it  bleed  until  it  stops  of  itself.  Open  the  bowels,  and 
use  the  following  wash :  Tincture  of  opium  6  drs.,  tinc- 
ture of  aconite  2  drs.,  rain-water  1  pint ;  mix  all  to- 
gether and  bathe  the  eye  three  times  a  day ;  or  use  bel- 
ladonna 1  oz.,  rain-water  1  pint ;  mix  and  bathe  the 
same. 

Specific  Ophthalmia. — Give  in  the  feed  night  and 
morning :    Colchicum    root,    pulverized,    1    oz.,    linseed 


RECAPITULATION    OF   REMEDIES.  193 

meal  2  oz. ;  mix  and  divide  into  20  powders.  Bathe  the 
eye  with  the  following :  Belladonna  1  oz.,  rain-water  1 
pint;  or  nitrate  of  silver  8  grs.,  distilled  water  4  oz., 
mix ;  or  sulphate  of  zinc  £  dr.,  diacetate  of  lead  1  dr., 
water  l£  pints ;  or,  take  a  piece  of  sulphate  of  copper, 
(blue-stone,)  shave  it  thin  and  smooth,  and  pass  it  care- 
fully between  the  eyelid  and  the  eyeball  twice  a  day 
until  the  eye  is  cleared  up. 


RULES  AND  REGULATIONS 

FOR   THE    GOVERNMENT   OF 

TROTTING-  AND  RACING 

OVER  THE 

UNION   COURSE,   LONG-   ISLAND. 


The  following  are  the  Rules  and  Regulations  for  the 
government  of  all  Trotting  and  Pacing  Matches  to  come 
off  on  the  Union  Course,  Long  Island: 

Rule  1.  Nature  of  Rules. — All  matches  or  sweep- 
stakes which  shall  come  off  over  this  Course  will  bo 
governed  by  these  Rules,  unless  the  contrary  is  mutu- 
ally agreed  upon  by  the  parties  making  such  match  or 
stake. 

2.  Power  of  Postponement. — In  case  of  unfavora- 
ble weather,  or  other  unavoidable  causes,  all  purses, 
matches,  or  sweepstakes  announced  to  come  off,  to  which 
the  proprietors  contribute,  they  shall  have  the  power  to 
postpone  to  a  future  day,  upon  giving  notice  of  the 
same. 

3.  Qualification  of  Horses  Starting. — Horses 
trained  in  the  same  stable,  or  owned  in  part  by  the 
same  person,  within  three  days,  shall  not  start  for  a 
purse  ;  and  horses  so  entered  shall  forfeit  their  entrance. 


196  RULES    OF   THE    UNION    COURSE. 

A  horse  starting  alone  shall  receive  bift  one  half  of  the 
purse.  Horses  deemed  by  the  Judges  not  fair  trotting 
horses  shall  be  ruled  off  previous  to,  or  distanced  at  the 
termination  of  the  heat. 

4.  Entries. — All  entries  shall  be  made  under  a  seal, 
inclosing  the  entrance-money,  (ten  per  cent  on  the  purse,) 
and  addressed  to  the  proprietor,  at  such  time  and  place 
as  may  have  been  previously  designated  by  advertise- 
ment. 

5.  Weight  to  be  Carried. — Every  trotting  horse 
starting  for  match,  purse,  or  stake,  shall  carry  one  hun- 
dred and  forty-five  pounds;  if  in  harness,  the  weight  of 
the  sulky  and  harness  not  to  be  considered.  Pacing 
horses  liable  to  the  same  rule. 

6.  Distances. — A  distance  for  mile  heats,  best  three 
in  five,  shall  be  one  hundred  yards ;  for  one  mile  heats, 
eighty  yards ;  and  for  every  additional  mile,  an  addi- 
tional eighty  yards. 

7.  Time  between  Heats. — The  time  between  heats 
shall  be,  for  one  mile,  twenty  minutes ;  for  every  addi- 
tional mile  an  additional  five  minutes. 

8.  Power  of  Judges. — There  shall  be  chosen,  by  the 
proprietor  of  the  Course,  or  Stewards,  three  Judges  to 
preside  over  a  race  for  purses,  and  by  them  an  addi- 
tional Judge  shall  be  appointed  for  the  distance  stand ; 
they  may,  also,  during  or  previous  to  a  race,  appoint 
Inspectors  at  any  part  of  the  Course,  whose  reports,  and 
theirs  alone,  shall  be  received  of  any  foul  riding  or 
driving. 

9.  Difference  of  Opinion  between  Judges. — 
Should  a  difference  of  opinion  exist  between  the  Judges 


RULES  OF  THE  UNION  COURSE.  197 

in  the  starting  stand  on  any  question,  a  majority  shall 
govern. 

10.  Judges'  Duties. — The  Judges  shall  order  the 
horses  saddled  or  harnessed  five  minutes  previous  to  the 
time  appointed  for  starting ;  any  rider  or  driver  causing 
undue  detention  after  being  called  up,  by  making  false 
starts  or  otherwise,  the  Judges  may  give  the  word  to 
start  without  reference  to  the  situation  of  the  horse  so 
offending,  unless  convinced  such  delay  is  unavoidable 
on  the  part  of  the  rider  or  driver,  in  which  case  not 
more  than  thirty  minutes  shall  be  consumed  in  attempt- 
ing to  start ;  and  at  the  expiration  of  that  time,  tho 
horse  or  horses  ready  to  start  shall  receive  the  word. 

11.  Starting  Horses. — The  pole  shall  be  drawn  for 
by  the  Judges ;  the  horse  winning  a  heat  shall,  for  the 
succeeding  heats,  be  entitled  to  a  choice  of  the  track ; 
on  coming  out  on  the  last  stretch,  each  horse  shall  re- 
tain the  track  first  selected ;  any  horse  deviating  shall 
be  distanced. 

12.  Riders  or  Drivers. — Riders  or  drivers  shall  not 
be  permitted  to  start  unless  dressed  in  jockey  style. 

13.  Weights  of  Riders  and  Drivers. — Riders  and 
drivers  shall  weigh  in  the  presence  of  one  or  more  of 
the  Judges  previous  to  starting ;  and  after  a  heat,  are 
to  come  up  to  the  starting  stand,  and  not  dismount  until 
so  ordered  by  the  Judges ;  any  rider  or  driver  disobey- 
ing shall,  on  weighing,  be  precluded  from  the  benefit  of 
the  weight  of  his  saddle  and  whip,  and  if  not  full  weight, 
shall  be  distanced. 

14.  Penalty  for  Foul  Riding  or  Driving. — A  rider 
or  driver  committing  any  act  which  the  Judges  may 
deem  foul  riding  or  driving  shall  be  distanced. 


198         RULES  OF  THE  UNION  COURSE. 


:ea 


15.  Horses  Breaking. — Should  any  horse  br< 
from  his  trot  or  pace,  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  rider  or 
driver  to  pull  his  horse  to  a  trot  or  pace  immediately, 
and  in  case  of  the  rider  or  driver  refusing  to  do  so,  the  pen- 
alty shall  be  that  the  next  best  horse  shall  have  the  heat ; 
if  the  rider  or  driver  should  comply  with  the  above,  and 
lie  should  gain  by  such  break,  twice  the  distance  so 
gained  shall  be  taken  away  on  the  coming  out ;  a  horse 
breaking  on  the  score  shall  not  lose  the  heat  by  so  doing. 

1G.  The  Winning  Horse — A  horse  must  win  two 
heats  to  be  entitled  to  the  purse,  unless  he  distance  all 
other  horses  in  one  heat.  A  distanced  horse  in  a  dead 
heat  shall  not  start  again. 

17.  Relative  to  Heats. — A  horse  not  winning  one 
heat  in  three  shall  not  start  for  a  fourth  heat,  unless 
such  horse  shall  have  made  a  dead  heat.  When  a  dead 
heat  is  made  between  two  horses,  that  if  either  had  won 
the  heat  the  race  would  have  been  decided,  they  two 
only  shall  start  again ;  in  races  best  three  in  five,  a 
horse  shall  win  one  heat  in  five  to  be  allowed  to  start 
for  the  sixth  heat,  unless  such  horse  shall  have  made  a 
dead  heat ;  such  horses  as  are  prevented  from  starting 
by  this  rule  shall  be  considered  drawn,  and  not  distanced, 

18.  On  Heats  and  Distances. — If  two  horses  each 
win  a  heat,  and  neither  are  distanced  in  the  race,  the 
one  coming  out  ahead  on  the  last  heat  to  be  considered 
the  best.  The  same  rule  to  be  applied  to  horses  neither 
winning  a  heat  and  neither  distanced.  If  one  horse  wins 
a  heat,  he  is  better  than  one  that  does  not,  providing  he 
does  not  get  distanced  in  the  race  ;  then  the  other,  it 
not  distanced,  shall  be  best.  A  horse  that  wins  a  heat 
and  is  distanced  is  better  than  one  not  winning  a  heat 
and  beiiiLr  distanced  in  the  same  heat.      A  horse  dis* 


RULES   OF   THE  UNION  COURSE.  199 

lanced  in  the  second  heat  is  better  than  one  distanced 
in  the  first  heat. 

19.  Horses  Drawn. — Horses  drawn  before  the  con- 
clusion of  a  race  shall  be  considered  distanced. 

20.  Outside  Bets. — In  all  matches  made  play  or  pay, 
outside  bets  not  to  be  considered  play  or  pay,  unless  so 
understood  by  the  parties. 

21.  Of  Play  or  Pay  Matches. — All  moneys  bet  on 
play  or  pay  matches  by  outside  betters,  are  not  consid- 
ered play  or  pay. 

22.  Betting. — Absent  Betters. — A  confirmed  bet 
can  not  be  let  off  without  mutual  consent.  If  either 
party  be  absent  at  the  time  of  trotting,  and  the  money 
be  not  staked,  the  party  present  may  declare  the  bet 
void  in  the  presence  of  the  Judges,  unless  some  party 
will  stake  the  money  betted  for  the  absentee. 

23.  Compromised  Matches. — All  bets  made  by  out- 
side betters  on  compromised  matches  are  considered 
drawn. 

24.  Betters  of  Odds,  etc. — The  person  who  bets  the 
odds  has  a  right  to  choose  the  horse  or  the  field.  When 
lie  has  chosen  his  horse,  the  field  is  what  starts  against 
him ;  but  there  is  no  field  unless  one  starts  with  him. 
If  odds  are  bet  without  naming  the  horses  before  the 
trot  is  over,  it  must  be  determined  as  the  odds  were  at 
time  of  making  it.  Bets  made  in  trotting  are  not  deter 
mined  till  tne  purse  is  won,  if  the  heat  is  not  specified 
at  the  time  of  betting. 

25.  Horses  Excluded  from  Starting  or  Distanced. 
— All  bets  made  on  horses  precluded  from  starting,  (by 
Rule  19,)  being  distanced  in  the  race,  or  on  such  horses 
agaiii&t  each  other,  shall  be  drawn. 


200  rules  of  the  union  course. 

26.  In  Cases  of  Dispute  and  Improper  Conduct. — 
In  all  cases  of  dispute  not  provided  for  by  the  Rules,  the 
Judges  for  the  day  will  decide  finally.  In  case  of  a  trot 
or  match  being  proved  to  their  satisfaction  to  have 
been  made  or  conducted  improperly  or  dishonestly  on 
the  part  of  the  principals,  they  shall  have  the  power 
to  declare  all  bets  void. 

27.  Size  of  Whips  to  be  Used. — No  rider  or  driver 
shall  be  allowed  any  other  than  a  reasonable  length  of 
whip,  namely,  for  saddle  horses,  two  feet  ten  inches  ; 
sulky,  four  feet  eight  inches ;  wagon,  five  feet  ten  inches. 

28.  In  Case  of  Accidents. — In  case  of  accidents,  but 
five  minutes  shall  be  allowed  over  the  time  specified  in 
Rule  No.  10,  unless  the  Judges  think  more  time  neces- 
sary. 

29.  Judges'  Stand. — No  person  shall  be  allowed  in 
the  Judges'  stands  but  the  Judges,  reporters,  and  mem- 
bers, at  the  time  of  trotting. 

30.  In  Case  of  Death. — All  engagements  are  void 
upon  the  decease  of  either  party  before  being  deter- 
mined. 


CONTENTS. 


Preface . 8 

History  of  Tiger,  Star,  Mazerpa,  and  other  famous  Horses 5 


TRAINING  OF  HORSES. 


PAGE 

Oeneral  Remarks IT 

The  Wild  Colt , 20 

Halter-breakins;  the  Colt 21 

Hitching  the  Colt  in  the  Stall 28 

To  get  the  Colt  used  to  the  Bit 20 

The  Bitting-Bridle 29 

Bitting  the  Colt 32 

Harnessing  the  Colt 83 

Hitching  up  the  Colt 34 


Teaching  the  Colt  to  Back. 

Riding  the  Colt 

To  Mount  the  Colt 

Habits  of  the  Colt 

The  "  Yankee  Bridle" 

The  "  Long  Foot-Strap". . . 
The  "  Short  Foot-Strap" 


The  "  Safety  Shafts" 51 


HABITS   OF  COLT  IN  THE  STABLE. 


Rolling  or  getting  Cast 52    Pulling  at  Halter . 

Crowding  or  Cringing 52 


53 


HABITS  IN  HARNESS. 


Putting  on  Harness 54 

Stubborn  and  Refusing  to  Rein 55 

Kicking  in  Double  Harness 57 

Running  and  Kicking  at  Dogs,  etc 58 


Pasture  Habits 59 

Shoeing  the  Colt 63 

Hints  on  the  Colt 63 


EDUCATION  OP  THE  HORSE. 


General  Remarks 65 

To  cause  the  Horse  to  Follow  you 6S 

To  add  Style 70 

To  Lie  Down 71 


To  Sit  Up 72 

To  say  "  No" 73 

To  make  a  Bow  and  Kiss  you 73 


HABITS   OF  THE  HORSE. 


General  Remarks 75 

The  "  Overdraw  Check" 76 

Kickers  in  Single  Harness 78 

Kickers  in  Double  Harness SI 

Kickers  while  Harnessing S6 

Kickers  while  Grooming S9 

Kicking  and  Striking  while  Shoeing..  00 

Kicking  in  Stall 92 

Balking  in  Double  Harness i>4 

Balking  in  Single  Harness 0"» 


Running  Away 101 

Refusing  to  Stand  to  Carriage 1015 

Pulling  at  Halter 104 

Bridle-Pulling 107 

Bad  to  Bridle 107 

Bad  to  Back 1(H 

Bad  Biters Ill 

Putting  Tongue  out  of  Mouth 112 

Hard  Pullers 113 

Wheeling  around  in  Harness 113 


